Rudder and Dive Planes (Stern) Linkages Best Options

[corsaire]

Fellow Sub Builders,

The current set-up on my Akula is via magnets, however in my own personal experience I've found it to be unreliable, not "rock solid" functioning - in two ocassions I've been lucky I had the boat on the surface and close to "shore" to be able to rescue it, only to discover upon inspection the magnets were disconnected from one another, not a good thing. A big risk to my investment. So, I've decided to go a different route, perhaps not as quick-release as the magnets but definitely will be much
more safe and secure. I know some of you swear by the magnets but unfortunately this hasn't been my experience.

Can you advise which would be a better set-up, either via clevices or ball-links? and if so, how would you set it up, I'm just looking for ideas as I don't intend to reinvent the wheel.

I'll appreciate your comments in advance,
Thanks,
Corsaire

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

The boats I have built, the rudder and rear planes stay in the lower hull half along with the cylinder.
So, I use clevises.
Only because I have lots of them.
They don't need to be disconnected in the field.

I think ball-links are tighter connections with less play in them.

I have started using magnets on controls that stay in the upper half but I make one side rigid and hinge the other side so they align when they snap together.
I use two magnets on each side, for a total of four per control rod.

I thought I had a photo. Didn't find one.
Need to do that for my last build log.

[tsenecal]

plastic clevises




almost as easy to attach/detach as the magnets, none of the cons.

i do use magnets and pins to align and connect the hull halves.

[JWLaRue]

I'm with Tim and Ralph on the use of plastic clevises. For all practical purposes they are foolproof, make it dead simple to make any in-field, last minute changes to the length of the linkages, and won't corrode and break.

-Jeff

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I also use wheel collars with control rod soldiered to the collar.
They provide positive connection and adjustment.
The end at the rudder and planes is just a Z bend which take up very little space.
I put the rod on the control horn before putting the horn on the rudder/planes pivot shaft in the tail cone.



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The control rod coming out of the cylinder is long.
It does not bend due to sitting in a notch at the propeller shaft bearing frame.

[scott t]

How about a magnet that uses a mechanical pin type connection?

[PaulC]

That's a very interesting idea, Scott! Salmon has a similar approach where the pin inserts along the horizontal axis of the linkage.

I've used Tim Smalley's old method for years. A ball link on one end attached to a brass tube mated to the WTC control link. A brass rod from the control hor runs back into the tube. The set screw in a wheel collar on the end of the tube clamps it all tight during operation. Loosening the set screw allows you to adjust the linkage. Tim had a drawing online somewhere to illustrate for those confused by my description. Maybe he will join in here.

[drschmidt]

I use quick connect clevises: http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=1359

[corsaire]

I finally did it this last weekend. I did away with the magnets and installed plastic clevises, stayed away from the metal ones just in case to prevent motor interference. I haven't put it in water yet, but tested it in dry-dock and everything seems to be working just fine. Now I shall have more peace of mind definitely. :-) Thank you all for all the good feedback. The idea of the pin magnets is really ingenious, much better and more secure than the conventional magnet power reliability.