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New Photoetched Upgrade Kit for Robbe U-47 - Units will be ready in about a month.
My preferred method is to use steel wool that is the 'oooo' grade...i.e. very fine....to give the surface enough 'tooth' for the paint to adhere, but without disturbing the fine detail of the etched part.
For the same reason, using an airbrush with slightly thinned paint is then used to preserve the detail while giving a good color coat. I like the Testor's ModelMaster line of paints.....good color coverage and good resistance to scratching.
I don't know if I'll have any extras from this first run. If I do, I'll put a paypal shopping cart button up on the website, probably tomorrow. If not I'll put a button up after the next run, probably Monday.
Sorry to be so indefinite but I have a lot of promises to keep on the front end here, and a couple trades I'd like to effect. I am working to come out with a couple other decks, trading these for what I need to make them.
You can shoot me an email at jason@modelbrass.com and I'll get a hold of you. They will be US$125 with free shipping worldwide for this initial phase. In a few weeks you'll get them from a distributor for $135 plus shipping, or $160 free shipping from my website. Right now the instructions are only in English, but there are plenty of good, color pictures, six pages worth.
hey gang make sure if you use epoxy that it is rated for water use or it will turn gummy over time and prove to be quite messy to clean up
I use two epoxy's J B weld and PC7 marine the pc 7 is a pretty new product and should be at your local true value or ace
it runs near 11 bucks but you get alot for that it is a two part putty epoxy U pull out what I need on a scrap plastic and then nuke it in the mirco for 35 to 45 seconds it should be the consistancy of peanutbutter but again make sure the two surfaces are roughed up with 150 paper
ca
but you should really try soldering with silver solder it souonds daunting but once you get the hang of it its quite easy
Production is great. Politics are a drag. Looks like I'm going to have to sell through distributor(s) only, so there won't be a shopping cart button. I will sell to SC members and maybe some general inquiries.
I also have a deal worked out to do decks of the later VII-C variety specifically made for the dream-arts towers. They are talking about opening a line tageted for the US market and I would love to bundle with them.
So if you want kits, email me at sales@modelbrass.com and I'll give you payment instructions. $125 free shipping worldwide and it's a limited-time offer. It's also as inexpensive as you'll ever see it in the future. Once the distributors start advertising it, I'll rescind the offer. (Be the first on your block...)
It looks very nice. I like the way everything is laid out on a single sheet. The brass is of good quality and thickness.
Some issues exist, however, and I am not sure if they are specific to the set I got.
First off, I did not receive any instructions with the set. Will you be posting something on your web site ?
Some of the details seem "watery". Lines are not straight in some cases nor are they "clean" (jaged edges).The etching is not crisp and clean as the one shown on your web site. Also the deck on the conning tower appears to be "over etched" on my sheet and has destroyed some of the detail on one side of the flooring.
I do not know what technique you use to create this deck because it looks as though it was a two step process (or multi step). In the same area some details are "laser sharp" and other details in the same spot looks edgy and watery.
Overall, not as crisp and clean as Jeff LaRue's etched deck, which I also have. However, your deck has far greater number of features.
"Edgey" and "watery" doesn't sound very good, and it's especially strange that a line would not be straight, since it's all done with computer-generated film. Nothing "moves".
On occasion some light will get in and predevelop the resist film in strange patterns, which can yield a "watery" look. That, or sometimes it's underdeveloped film. I usually catch those on the pre-etch inspection so I can strip the film and reuse the plate. I apologize for that and I will send you another one from the next batch since I am sold out at the moment. Look for it towards the later part of next week.
I will email you instructions shortly. I will get them posted on the site after the French and German translations are done, maybe as soon as a week.
If you wish, I can send this one back to you to see what I am trying to describe.
I was very impressed overall with the detail ! The detail you have is amazing. I was comparing Jeff LaRue's deck to yours, and the amount of detail on yours is simply astonishing. No offense intended Jeff !
Aso the scale of objects and details on your deck is very very accurate.
I was taken back with some of the "over etching" (I use this term loosley because I do not know how else to describe it), but based on your description I now somewhat understand the process.
This "over etching" appears to be on the hatch lines only, and in the deck floor patterns. Not the deck lines. The deck lines are perfect. As stated previously some of the cuts are also jagged edged.
In any case, I consider these minor issues, and it is probably something that slipped by you.
Overall, I have been very impresed with your work.
I look forward to your torpedo kit ! That looks equally impressive also !
But since you are offering some comparisions, I would like to share one of my observations in the hope that Jason might consider making a quick but small change. (the advantage of not using photo negatives to do the etching!)
I offer the comment that the conning tower deck could use a modification to the deck grating area. The size of the square holes are noticeably oversized. The width of each side should be the same measurement as the deck itself. (that is the brass that represents the wooden grating is the same 'width')
I had made them to scale in a couple prototype runs, but was advised to increase them a little to ensure no air bubbles would get trapped. Probably an overly cautious decision. If scale holes would trap air, what hope is there at all of an R/C Revell kit? Those are going to be even smaller holes.
With the Robbe I really tried for the Volkswagen approach. I figured people bought the Robbe because it was a "sensible" boat. Good quality for a good price, and simply built. People who were willing to spend a lot for great detail probably got the Engle. Of course after I got my Robbe I realized that with a little PE, it would look about 90% as good as the Engle, but I could only do so much for the tower. I thought about including the rings around the periscope bases, but how much work should one do when there is no real interior there anyway? That's the real reason I went with the bigger holes, because I thought anyone who wanted a first rate scale tower would probably get one from Dream-Arts or Accurate Armour. I would error on the side of R/C functionality with my "volkswagen" approach.
So I agree that Jeff is right, but I think I'll leave it alone as a matter of suitability for my target market.
Hey I also got a new collimated light source, which will make exposures much faster and cleaner. It has to be wired and ducted for heat exhaust, which is the holdup before I can do the next batch. (Apologies to Greg in Brussels, you're first on the list friend.)
Yes I know and I apologize. Last night I finally got the new collimated exposure source installed and by 10]http://www.modelbrass.com/revell_viic.htm[/url]
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