Drills

[bigdave]

I just wanted to show a nice set of drills and driver.
They are made for use in hex drivers. You can get a set from Harbor Freight.
I like them because you can use them as a hand drill to clean out holes or opening up larger holes.
I have a power screw driver that's very low speed that works great with the bits too.
It has been a very useful modeling tool.

[salmon]

BD,
I also use a chuck that I got when I bought some old fly fishing stuff. It was used for tying flies. It works perfectly for hand drilling because it has a little heft, but also I can easily grab the knurled edges. The drills you show are great because they do not slip while chucked up.
So, I see something covered by a towel, is it a secret?
Peace,
tom

[sgtmac1]

Hey! I just bought those drill bits an hour ago before I read this. Okay, how do I use them to create my limber holes and various other openings in a fiberglass hull? I have note that there are some absolutely terrific looking scale holes in a variety of SC members subs and I sure want to do them proud on my boat.
Thank you.

[JWLaRue]

Sgt,

For fiberglass hulls, drill bits typically chip the resin or gelcoat surface. I prefer to use diamond burs such as these:

http://www.toolocity.com/diamond-burs-vacuum-brazed.aspx

This will allow you to cleanly grind/cut through the hull.

Also, I use the burs to rough out the opening and then use miniature files to open the hole to the desired size and shape. Takes a lot of work for boats like WW2 subs, but definitely worth it!

-Jeff

[bigdave]

BD,
I also use a chuck that I got when I bought some old fly fishing stuff. It was used for tying flies. It works perfectly for hand drilling because it has a little heft, but also I can easily grab the knurled edges. The drills you show are great because they do not slip while chucked up.
So, I see something covered by a towel, is it a secret?
Peace,

tom

I guess I am busted. Lol
Not a secret, just the system for my Skipjack.
It's a modified version of my UNI 2.5 system. Set up with a DAWB module I have been testing.
Once I can confirm it works I will post more info. BD.

[southern or]

Sgt,

For fiberglass hulls, drill bits typically chip the resin or gelcoat surface. I prefer to use diamond burs such as these:

http://www.toolocity.com/diamond-burs-vacuum-brazed.aspx

This will allow you to cleanly grind/cut through the hull.

Also, I use the burs to rough out the opening and then use miniature files to open the hole to the desired size and shape. Takes a lot of work for boats like WW2 subs, but definitely worth it!

-Jeff

And to think all this time I've been using a smaller bit and filing out.

[JWLaRue]

Certainly small(er) bits can be used, but I find that the burs provide more control and allow me to open the initial opening much closer to the desired shape without fear of making mistakes.

-Jeff

[southern or]

Certainly small(er) bits can be used, but I find that the burs provide more control and allow me to open the initial opening much closer to the desired shape without fear of making mistakes.

-Jeff

I switched to self tapping bits and haven't had any problems. The real problem is that the OSCAR and Typhoon have square holes, so I'm filing anyways.

[bigdave]

I use the Perma-Grit tools for working with fiberglass.
Not cheap but never wear out. They cut through the glass like Budda!
They have all sizes, shapes, and types.
Just Google it. BD

[southern or]

Sgt,

For fiberglass hulls, drill bits typically chip the resin or gelcoat surface. I prefer to use diamond burs such as these:

http://www.toolocity.com/diamond-burs-vacuum-brazed.aspx

This will allow you to cleanly grind/cut through the hull.

Also, I use the burs to rough out the opening and then use miniature files to open the hole to the desired size and shape. Takes a lot of work for boats like WW2 subs, but definitely worth it!

-Jeff

I use the Perma-Grit tools for working with fiberglass.
Not cheap but never wear out. They cut through the glass like Budda!
They have all sizes, shapes, and types.
Just Google it. BD

Dave, Your first post shows what looks like a variable speed drill. Is that what you use for fiberglass? I don't know how long they'll last, but I'm using self tapping steel bits for my starter holes. The problem I've run into with the diamond coated burs is that they work great for the first 20 minutes or so, then they get a buildup of glass fibers and resin that won't come off. Right now on the Oscar, I'm on my 4th diamond disk, but I've still using the first carbon disk, and the carbon has lasted longer-but it won't last too much longer. It probably doesn't help that I'm cutting a 1/4" thick WTD to fit.

[JWLaRue]

It might be that you are running the drill at too high a speed? I've been using my diamond burs for years without any build-up problems.....but I use a variable speed Dremel.

-Jeff

[bigdave]

The power tool in the photo is a single speed low RPM screwdriver.
I don't use it on fiberglass or the drills either for that matter.
Just for non ferrous metals and plastic.
And screwdriver bits.
I use a carbide burr for fiberglass. I have been using a set for over 20 years and it's never worn out.
I start the opening with the burr then finish with a Perma-Grit tool of choice. BD

[southern or]

Thanks!

For now I'm stuck with a single speed Dremel and a variable speed drill, but I need a smaller chuck on the drill. I've been told that I could get a foot throttle for the Dremel though.

[bigdave]

Variable speed is almost a must have for a mototool.
My tool of choice is the Dremel Stylus.
For some unknown reason they stopped selling them.
It is by far the most handy tool I own.
The people who have them love them and they command a high price even used.
More than they sold for new.
It is battery operaited.
For corded I use a Black and Decker RTX. It is three speed and built very well. BD.

[JWLaRue]

I have one of the typical multi-speed Dremel tools that I have hanging on a bracket next to and above my worktable. I use their Flex-Shaft attachment that connects to the business end of the tool. Makes controlling a Dremel for delicate work very easy and without having to deal with the weight of the tool itself.

-Jeff