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[color=#000000]Hi, fellow subbers.
In the process of scratch building my 1]
In the process of scratch building my 1]
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How about wood, it cheap,
How about wood, it cheap, needs no special mold, easy to replace if you don't shape it correctly and easy to waterproof.
-- just a thought -- -
I used lexan for a
I used lexan for a 1/100 LA, it worked perfectly. Easy to work with, non-brittle and gluableComment
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How about sheet Lexan polycarbonate,
How about sheet Lexan polycarbonate, which comes in different thicknesses. Much less brittle than plexiglas, sands and shapes/machines easily, and takes paint well. I made some bow planes and skegs that worked out well.Comment
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Our minds work in the
Our minds work in the same way.Comment
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Hi again.
Thanks alot, guys! I
Hi again.
Thanks alot, guys! I now have a few ideas to take into early tests.
And Art: I didn't know my mind WAS working..
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I like to save a
I like to save a buck where I can, so I have used plexiglass for all of my control surfaces. The kind of plexiglass I am using (if there are different kinds) is not brittle at all, and even though I have not tried them out yet, they seem to be very durable.
Just my two cents worth
JonComment
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Jon,
I guess I'm not the
Jon,
I guess I'm not the best driver, but I have run my subs in some tight places around docks and in test tanks that have interior metal beams to support the glass walls, and have broken quite a few "original equpment" control surfaces.
Plexiglass is a brand name for acrylic. I have broken and repaired many acrylic products including an acrylic WTC, which fractured when I tried to insert an end cap.
I still recommend polycarbonate, like Lexan, for these uses, in spite of the additional cost.
ArtComment
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Yeah, you're probably right.
One
Yeah, you're probably right.
One problem I have with the translucent and transparent materials is even when painted they let an unscale-like bit of light through. What do you do about that? Just live with it?
JonComment
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