Photo Etch - Searching for

[chief]

Ahoy,

I'm new to this site and hope ya'll can help. I have a couple of the old 1/125 scale Revell U-47/99 Type VIIC, Flasher (H-431) and Growler (H-436) kits and want to know if anybody has produced PE sets or resin upgrades for these kits? How about Academy 1/150 Type IX? Thanks for listening.

Chief

[Guest]

Hi Chief,

You may find some

Hi Chief,

You may find some PE for Revell 1/125 at]http://www.nautilusmodels.com[/url]

If you are interested in PE for new Revell 1/72 check my website]http://DeepWaterModels.com[/url] or

http://www.modelbrass.com

Bo

[chief]

Atomic,

Thanks for the reply!!!!!!!!

[color=#000000]Atomic,

Thanks for the reply!!!!!!!! Now the question is... Which one is better? Nautilusmodels or Modelbrass? Decisions, decisions.

Chief ]

[safrole]

Which ones better!? Which ones...


Now,

Which ones better!? Which ones...


Now, don't think I'm biased or anything, but I could make either wood or brass and I chose to sell brass for a few good reasons.

Woodburning lasers are all over my town, and they'll even burn small quantities without any setup charges since they run straight from computer files. But wood can't be burned with the same fine clarity that brass can be etched, so I would have to reduce the amount of detail in that medium. The point of this reduction would be to match the same material from which the real deck was made, but who can really tell? If you have books, go through them and look for signs that the deck is wood. Except for bomb damage photos it's pretty difficult. I'm not saying a kreigsmarine boot never wore through the black preservative, or that wood showing is always "over weathering", but the overwhelming majority of the boats had charcoal decks during their service life and wood for the sake of wood grain is just not worth the compromised details.

Another nice thing about the brass is that it's very close to the correct thickness in scale, where the Revell deck is much too thick. In scale, the brass deck is 3/4" thick, very close to the real thing. When you look at the slots in the deck, they should actually be very thin, looking very sharp. The Revell deck shows sidewalls in the deck slots that if scaled up would make the deck way too thick, maybe 3-4". This thick look is of course a limitation of injection molding technology. The brass has the correct look of a very thin plate. It's the same story for the holes in the sea hull, the limber/flooding holes. The sea hull should be quite thin, and all holes that go through it should present as thin a profile as possible. One inch thick in 1/72 scale is .014", pretty thin.

For nearly the same money, we give you a lot of extra goodies, too. The flooding grates around the fore and aft planes are a real knockout, and when you factor in periscope upgrades and the like, you get the most bang for your buck from brass.

Forgive the alliteration, but there's your sales pitch. Also check out Boris' lovely installation guide here.
Boris' Installation Guide

[Guest]

Hi Chief

I do have not

Hi Chief

I do have not much to say about Nautilis’s wood deck yet. I expect my order will arrive soony. Originally, I did not intend to use it, but I got question from prospective customer about to have model of prewar period with red lower hull and black strip alog waterline. He saw model made by Frank Pauli at my site ( http://www.deepwatermodels.com/AugsburgClub/u48/ )
and had found it very exiting. When we discussed details and especially deck he expressed interest to have real wood deck not covered with preservative. Since I am not very good with airbrush I prefer to use natural materials for building instead of trying simulate real looking things with different painting techniques. So, what could be better than real wood deck for this?

If we are talking about scale and accuracy I agree with Jason. The brass deck is the only way in this scale. The only difficulties I have experienced was mounting brass deck. After uncountable experiments with different glues I almost gave up. I even call up Henkel representative for help. Epoxy did not work, the super glue (sekundenkleber in German) and about ten other. Nothing really used work good enough for me. I need to ship this models, and they should arrive still intact. Finally I ended up with mixture of Cyanacrilat and Proxan microballons in proportion 80:20. It also very useful as well for fabricating insulators, restore rivets and etc…

I will prepare short deck mounting instruction during weekend and upload it on my site.

The deck from Nautilus seems would not have such a problems since it has the same profile as original Revell’s deck . This deck suppose perfectly accommodate deck slot in the hull.

Unfortunately, I still need PE set to assist this wood deck make model look attractive. I ordered new PE set from WhiteEnsinModels to get a bit familiar with it.

Bo

P.S.

Check out little comparisions report for modelbrass:

http://deepwatermodels.com/VIIC/mode.../comparisions/

[chief]

Thanks for the inputs, I

Thanks for the inputs, I guess I'll just look at some more pictures of finished kits and go from there. Again thanks alot!

Chief

[Guest]

I wonder if this cyano

I wonder if this cyano would be a good choice for this application-

http://www.homershams.co.nz/a_L_406.htm

First saw this recommended on Norbert's website- spec looks good. Not cheap though!

Andy

[Guest]

Andy,

you absoluletly right. This

Andy,

you absoluletly right. This Loctite glue is really good stuff. I have 414, special for plastic. Yes, it is not cheap, designed for industrial use, and it is very,very difficult to find in retail, at least here, in Germany.

Bo

[JWLaRue]

I have found that for

I have found that for my large R/C Seehund that Scotch 2216 A/B Epoxy works well to keep the large brass pieces in place. This is an epoxy that appears to have some amount of rubber or other elastic compound in it.

-Jeff