Best way to open Revell flood holes

[casey thrower]

Will most of you who open the flood holes on the Type VIIC by Revell just drill open and file the holes or go from the back and sand them down until open? Sanding may make the plastic too thin. Comments?



Edited By Casey Thrower on 1082157346

[sam reichart]

Casey-see the thread on this

Casey-see the thread on this that shows how Ronald opened his up. It's in the R/C Model postings

[randy wise]

Morning Again Casey,

I opened up

Morning Again Casey,

I opened up the casing drainage holes on my 1/72 Type VII-C over the course of the past weekend. I used a Dremel tool on the interior walls of the hull. Holding the hull up to the light I thinned the plastic until the plastic over the holes was ultra-thin. Then I punched it out. Nice thin wall and very little clean-up around the holes. Needless to say I was covered in styrene dust.

Looks great though; well worth the extra work and mess.

Regards,

Randy

[scott t]

How about using a light

How about using a light table and a routing base on a dremel tool. Place the piece on the light table wrong side up with a little masking tape, use routing bit to shave thin areas where the light shines through.

Should work on the flat pieces.

The light table I am thinking about is the type that comes from the toy section for coloring pictures. You might also build one from an old light bright toy.

[casey thrower]

I ended up drilling 3

I ended up drilling 3 pilot holes the running the bit back and forth until the hole was done. Took about 15 minutes for one side. I dont have a bit small enough for the bottom holes so
I'll have to wait on them.

[jeffrey j]

hi Casey, I did exactly

hi Casey, I did exactly what you said with making 3 small holes and working out the extra material going back and forth. The really small slots under the fwd planes , well I may just skip these all together. I have a very small drill, don't know the size, but small. I tried this on 2 of those slots and just couldn't get it to look right. May wait untill the boat is painted, and work a dark color in those areas to give the impression they are open. Just a thought. Jeff J.

[mkeatingss]

While we're on the subject

While we're on the subject of drills, what about dental bits? I've used them for years.
If you're cheap, or smart (depending on point of view) ask your dentist to save his old bits for you, next time your there.
Not only will they be cheaper (probaly free) but, since they are too worn to properly cut enamel, they're worn enough that they won't tear up plastic. And they go down to #80 (.0135")
If you're feeling rich, hit a dental supply house. But be careful, new bits will cut through plastic like a hot razor thrue soft butter. And they ain't cheap.
You'll be amazed at the number of different cutting shapes and styles, that are available.
Good luck.
Mike

[jeffrey j]

just a thought on the

just a thought on the grats under the fwd diving planes, I was going to cut the whole square,,,, or rectangle area out and replace the cross pieces with some evergreen plasic. This would look 'cleaner' I think other than trying to cut each slot out seperatly .. Jeff J

[mkeatingss]

Good idea, Jeff. Sounds like

Good idea, Jeff. Sounds like a "Better" idea.
Also, for filler, I toss a bunch of sprue in a bottle with some liquid plastic cement and let it melt. Add cement or sprue intil you have a nice consistency. (It takes awhile for the sprue to melt, so it may take a couple of days).
And put it on in very thin layers. I does contain plastic solvent, and can soften the plastic under it. Also give it plenty of time to set up. With careful sanding, afterwards, the seam is undetectable and the colors match.
Mike