Shading, highlight, and detailing

**salmon** · 07-08-2017, 10:39 AM

Two techniques that use a brush and will make bring a depth to your model are washes and dry brush.

Washes are simply a very watered down paint, usually a darker color, brushed over an area that has a gloss coating, to flow into cracks and crevices. Using this technique on a surface that has a flat paint covering will create a different effect. Excess paint is mopped up.

Dry brushing is used to bring out highlights and details that stand proud of the surface or has edges. A brush is dipped in the paint ( a lighter shade or a different color - like silver to show wear on a metal piece) and almost all the paint has is wiped away on a paper towel. So much so it seems dry and no paint on there, but there is. Then the brush is moved back and forth over the area wanting highlights. A very light deposit will occur.

My descriptions are very basic. There are many great YouTube videos that will show these techniques in better detail. As you practice on some scrap material or old model, you will find that you pick up the skills quickly. I have seen these techniques used with a heavy hand or very lightly applied. You will find what style you like and when to use it as you gain experience.

Looking forward to seeing what you create.

**Pattern8** · 07-14-2017, 12:39 PM

Originally posted by salmon View Post

Two techniques that use a brush and will make bring a depth to your model are washes and dry brush.

Washes are simply a very watered down paint, usually a darker color, brushed over an area that has a gloss coating, to flow into cracks and crevices. Using this technique on a surface that has a flat paint covering will create a different effect. Excess paint is mopped up.

Dry brushing is used to bring out highlights and details that stand proud of the surface or has edges. A brush is dipped in the paint ( a lighter shade or a different color - like silver to show wear on a metal piece) and almost all the paint has is wiped away on a paper towel. So much so it seems dry and no paint on there, but there is. Then the brush is moved back and forth over the area wanting highlights. A very light deposit will occur.

My descriptions are very basic. There are many great YouTube videos that will show these techniques in better detail. As you practice on some scrap material or old model, you will find that you pick up the skills quickly. I have seen these techniques used with a heavy hand or very lightly applied. You will find what style you like and when to use it as you gain experience.

Looking forward to seeing what you create.

Thank you for this... I'm slowly progressing (I think/hope) with dry brushing. Of course because so many of the surfaces we're dealing with are smooth and rounded it was very easy in the beginning to muck it up. I think I'm starting to get the importance of almost imperceptible shade changes applied in many many light layers. I still have not gotten to where I'd like to be in knowing what paints to mix and in what ratio to give me the very subtle yet perceptible effect I have in my head.

Washes are another matter all together. I purchased 5 or 6 of them from light grey to soft black and even one called "storm." No success with these but something you mentioned in your post may provide me some clue. I paint with flat acrylic paints, then use Testors spray clear coat in gloss, apply decals, then another coat of Testors spray clear coat matte. I have not considered before how those various stages would affect use of the washes.

**sam reichart** · 07-14-2017, 02:40 PM

a good set of chalk pastels, added with a brush, and they oversprayed with clear flat lends itself to some great weathering. Just be sure to use enough pastels to 1) not blow away when hit by the air from the dullcoat can, and 2) just enough dullcoat to keep the pastels down without washing out the effect. it's a balancing act, and it comes with practice.

**salmon** · 07-14-2017, 05:11 PM

Second what Sam said!

**Pattern8** · 07-16-2017, 07:44 PM

Originally posted by sam reichart View Post

a good set of chalk pastels, added with a brush, and they oversprayed with clear flat lends itself to some great weathering. Just be sure to use enough pastels to 1) not blow away when hit by the air from the dullcoat can, and 2) just enough dullcoat to keep the pastels down without washing out the effect. it's a balancing act, and it comes with practice.

Got a couple of the Tamiya Weather Master sets and like them a lot. Thank you for the recommendation!

**sam reichart** · 07-17-2017, 10:16 AM

Originally posted by Pattern8 View Post

Got a couple of the Tamiya Weather Master sets and like them a lot. Thank you for the recommendation!

anytime. post pics when you're done!

**Pattern8** · 07-22-2017, 03:43 PM

In the final stage if not done with the Yasen class model. Still work to be done on the Borei class. Have also been experimenting with using a product called "Realistic Water" to give the effect of water draining out of the vent/bilge/limber (not sure which is correct???) holes. Any and all critiques welcome.

Attached Files