Wood deck add on for 1/72nd Type IX

[swede ware]

Would appreciate any info/advise for using this on this kit. I have reservations on 1) the cost and 2) the problems with mounting this to the kit. I can see that it will need to be reinforced as it won't be as firm as the plastic deck but will add a more 3 dimensional effect, I believe. Any help with this will be appreciated! I have done A/C for years and then went over to armor, for the rust and dirt. This is my first time with subs, so all new to me.

[scott t]

Display Model right?

How does the mfg. recommend attaching the deck?
Could you glue it to the surface of the existing plastic deck?
Do you have a link to the product?

Scott T

[JWLaRue]

How thick is the wood deck compared to the kit-supplied plastic deck?

-Jeff

[salmon]

Welcome to the Subcommittee!
I have not used a wood deck and I preference that because my observations on wood decks are from what others have posted. I personally avoided using wood decks mainly from reading what issues others have run into on Gato builds, so is this fair to comment? Maybe not, so take my thoughts with that in mind. The decks look great for static displays, but need to be sealed really, really well if it is to be used in a working sub. The deck that comes with the Type IX looks pretty good to me as it is and is very durable for water usage.
What are the advantages? With the openings you might think better performance, I am not so sure about that.
My experiences with thin/small openings in the deck, is it does little for multiple dives and surfaces. The initial dive goes well, but once under water, the tiny openings fill with water and when the sub surfaces those openings remain filled with water because of the surface tension of water. So for good air/water movement, Again, this is only my experience, you need opening 1/8" or larger. A wood deck does look good on display with the deck openings. Other things that come to mind, as I ponder on this, is weight. Are you adding weight installing the deck or is it lighter than the deck you are replacing? You need to hoist that additional weight out of the water and that will effect your ballast system.
I agree with your observation of cost and the additional work to install it. Maybe someone else can chime in that has used a wood deck and either confirm or poo-poo my thoughts. Overall, it comes down to your own preferences and the work you want to put in.

[JWLaRue]

Tom,

Excellent observation about surface tension and its impact on diving/surfacing operations. Even on my 1/48th scale Type VIIC, the width of the deck slots are not quite wide enough to allow water to flow through them.

Even though we can scale our boats, water still refuses to be scaled appropriately. LOL!

-Jeff

[swede ware]

Appreciate the replies. I should have pointed out that this will be a sratic display, so no problem with water in any way. As far as info from mfg., there is none other than the typical, "Boy, will this look good on your Sub" ! I was told that Jeff LaRue might know about these decks.

[JWLaRue]

This is one of the laser cut decks, yes? I believe that the one thing that you will need to add is some extra support beneath the deck so that it doesn't sag over time.

One thing I have no direct, hands-on with any of the Type IX decks is what their thickness is. If it is thicker than the plastic deck, you will likely want to find some way to ensure that you don't end up with the deck sitting too high.

-Jeff

[scott t]

http://scaledecks.com/Technology.html

Not the submarine deck but lazer cut decks. If you glue the deck on the surface you might have
to raise the edges to make it look right.

[swede ware]

Great ! Appreciate the info on this. Just did not want to blow off $60+ bucks with no return for the build!!

[JWLaRue]

If you glue the deck on the surface you might have
to raise the edges to make it look right.

I would strongly recommend just the opposite, carefully thin down the eyes of the deck or (better yet) remove the inner haul deck supports and fabricate new ones that are low enough to allow the deck to sit properly.

Raising the hull sides will affect the look of the hull too much.

-Jeff

[swede ware]

Will keep that in mind as I consider which direction to go. Another kicker I ran into is White Ensign going belly up, especially as I was looking into paints. My God, Sovereign Hobbies pickd up line and are pricing it like its gold! $5.50 per 1 fluid ounce is just rediculous!! I know people will feel thy need to pay that, but when considering the size of the 1/72 hull, deck and tower, I can paint my car for the same price. I believe I may consider mixing my own!!!

[tom dougherty]

$5.50 per ounce??? That works out to $704 per gallon of paint…. Too bad you can't use a good Scotch whiskey; it would be cheaper.

[tom dougherty]

An ounce is roughly 29.8 mls. Actually, it turns out that ModelMaster acrylics are $3.29 per half ounce bottle. Vallejo paint is similar in price and comes as only 17 ml bottles at $2..99 a bottle. All of these paints are vastly overpriced for the amounts. Yes, they may be finely ground pigment and specialty paints, but I'll bet a batch of a gallon costs maybe $30 to make. Add in the price of the bottles, bottling etc., and maybe $35 per gallon?? Quite a markup!

[JWLaRue]

..and to be fair, it's not like you need a huge amount to paint a model of this size....

-Jeff

[roedj]

Tom,

Excellent observation about surface tension and its impact on diving/surfacing operations. Even on my 1/48th scale Type VIIC, the width of the deck slots are not quite wide enough to allow water to flow through them.

Even though we can scale our boats, water still refuses to be scaled appropriately. LOL!

-Jeff

Jeff,

OK, I understand about surface tension not allowing water to run through the narrow deck slots.

But what is the bottom line? Does it mean that one cannot use wooden decks with these dimensions for a model sub that actually dives? It would seem that the trapped air under the deck would present a lot of ballasting and balancing issues.

Maybe we put the sub in the water, submerge it by hand, shake it all about (do the hokey pokey - no wait that's not right) and count on the water under the deck to stay there even after the sub surfaces so the the next dive goes well.

If I ever actually used a wooden deck I would seal it with the Gougeon Brothers WEST system.

Enlighten me please,

Dan