OTW Type VII improved access?

[bob the builder]

Looking for some guidance for anyone who's traveled down this road. I've built up this model as a static display before, but haven't tackled it as and R/C model until now.

I have a started OTW Type VII that I will be finishing up for a customer. Comes with the OTW 4.25" diameter cylinder. I've successfully put the cylinder in and gotten it out through the existing opening under the PE decking, but I really don't like doing it. You need to spread the hull considerably and I only see issues arising over time with damaged paint finish on the boat, scratched OD on the tube, and frustration at having to go through the whole battle every time you need to make an adjustment or charge a battery.

Was thinking of getting extreme and cutting the whole model at the waterline. Seems like it would be a good idea in that you'd get unrestricted access to the interior with no need to take apart the upper deck piece by piece in order to gain access. Drawback I see is maintaining hull alignment over the entire (considerable) length.

Has anyone else done anything more creative than using the existing access, or possible dreamed something up that I can steal (er... borrow)?


Thanks!

[Guest]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

Only ever seen one of these models in the flesh so to speak, and remember that removing the module looked a bit like a surgical procedure, which was appropriate as the owner was a theatre nurse.

Don't envy your task making a longitudinal split, what with extensive plating and river detail present on that hull.

Perhaps consider a radial split like the Engel type VII or the Robbe U47. That would be easier to keep everything in shape, and less intrusive, and could also make the boat easier to transport.

[JWLaRue]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

Bob,

It's my perspective that inserting/removing the dive module through the deck is not really a problem. When I built my Type VII, I made all seven of the PE deck sections removable, including the cross bracing and then inserted/removed the module mostly through the forward deck gun area where the deck has that wider area. This minimized the amount of hull stretching to the point where this easily outweighed the challenge of cutting the hull at the waterline and keeping the two hull sections lined up.

I did a write-up on my build in the SCR a number of years ago. If you can't find it, please let me know and I'll go figure out the specific issue.

-Jeff

[redboat219]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

How about this way...
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5708

[ober freak]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

I'd also suggest a radial split with a bayonet locking, like I did on my Revell Gato.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11060&start=270#p72105

2 frames with a large round center cut for the WTC sliding through, some bolts in one frame interfering with keyholes in the other one do the locking and take the forces and possibly some magnets to avoid unwanted twisting.

And as Sub culture already said, this way you can reduce the length for easier transport.

Marco

PS: if you still prefer a longitudinal cut I would suggest on the upper saddle tank line where most type VII have large limber holes, or on the lower one if the upper one won't be wide enough.

[thor]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

I saw Jeff's OTW Type VII many years ago. It was very slick. No joints anywhere to be seen. He was able to pull his cylinder out of his very quickly and cleanly. The simple way is usually the best way.

[bob the builder]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

I never thought about the added convenience of being able to split the boat in half for transport. That's actually a pretty big deal and benefit. Hmmm... I like!

[Guest]

Re: OTW Type VII improved access?

If you bond the deck in too, you will have a very strong monocoque. You may need a small piece removable to access the front planes.

Worth looking at Norbert Bruggens Revell conversion kit instructions for some tips on make a cheap and effective bayonet latch.

http://modelluboot.de/Anleitungen/Anleitung_U552_w.pdf

I would make a one-off jig for marking out the cut, then you can either cut it with a jewellers saw- minimal blade width but will be slow going, or use a Dremel and cutting wheel if you're brave. If going the latter route, you might have a routing attachment which you can use with the afore mentioned jig to keep the tool square as you make the cut.

I like using hot glue guns to tack jigs and such like in place. It bonds tenaciously, yet is easy to remove from plastic and metal once the task is complete.