Dumas Akula

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  • Guest

    #46
    Re: Dumas Akula

    Ahab,

    Using black ABS pipe is just fine. But do note that pipes like these are usually used for waste and such, so you may find that the pipe is of rather imprecise manufacture, so you will need make the ends smooth my sanding it out, or using a collar to provide a smooth surface for the o-ring.

    Alex

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    • Guest

      #47
      Re: Dumas Akula

      Can't you order it from the States? Plenty of people of people selling it on ebay etc.

      Epoxy will work, just not as well, make sure you key the surfaces up well and use the slow curing variety (24 hour), as five minute epoxies do not hold back well against water.

      Most plastic plumbing pipe, usually made from PVC or ABS is specced to seal on the outside of the pipe, rather than the inside. You can sometimes purchase inspection caps, which solvent weld onto the end of the pipe. They have a removeable cap, which either screw on, or are held together with a baynet lock. Perfect end cap for a cylinder, cheap, and totally watertight.

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      • JWLaRue
        Managing Editor, SubCommittee Report
        • Aug 1994
        • 4281

        #48
        Re: Dumas Akula

        Can't you order it from the States? Plenty of people of people selling it on ebay etc.
        ....google is your friend! The first hit shows that Amazon sells it. I don't think that Amazon.com treats Canada any different than the U.S.

        -Jeff
        Rohr 1.....Los!

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        • Guest

          #49
          Re: Dumas Akula

          Well the build is underway. I've found some marine epoxy that cures in 8 hours that is pretty tough. I've also cut out most pieces of hull and created two braces for the nose to keep its shape. Used some acrylic sheets I got at Home depot. Gotta love that drumel tool. Remember. I don't have a workshop. House was sold after devorce. I had a world class workbench. Now. I have a kitchen table. I use the drummel tool sitting on edge of bath tub with eye protection and a Gas mask my father "procured" from his job in the mine.

          So it's comming along. But as always. I have a bump in the road. The WTC needs to be secured when It's all said and done. I have about a quarter of an inch on either side of the WTC when it's in place. I'm trying to figure out how to secure it. Such a simple thing to do. But I'm at a loss. I can't even find any pics to give me any ideas. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

          Mark

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          • Guest

            #50
            Re: Dumas Akula

            Zip ties (releasable ones) or velcro straps work well.

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            • Guest

              #51
              Re: Dumas Akula

              Mark,
              You might want to cut a couple of 1/2" lengths of any extra lexan tubing, then cut them to the shape of a "C" and glue them down into the hull with the open end up. You can then snap the WTC in and out , as needed. Then glue two velcro straps across the top of the C for extra security.
              Art

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              • Guest

                #52
                Re: Dumas Akula

                I'm beginning to look at my electronics with intent to buy. I took a look at the motor that Dumas sells for the Akula. 80 bucks seems like a lot. I can purchase a pretty heavey duty motor from my local vendor. But how do I know if it's powerful enough? Do I need a cetain amount of RPM? What do I do?

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                • Guest

                  #53
                  Re: Dumas Akula

                  I'd expect it to be platinum plated for $80! I think they use Pittman motors, which are good quality, but you can save a yourself a lot of money looking elsewhere.

                  RPM required? What's the prop size, about 2" diameter, I would think. Aim for a motor combination that can give you about 5000RPM. You can use either a high-turn 500 size motor, or something like a geared 400 size, or you can go brushless. A suitable brushless motor and controller from Hobbyking will set you back about $20-30.

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                  • Guest

                    #54
                    Re: Dumas Akula

                    Yes its a two inch prop. But I'm going to get something brass that is more suitable to the real thing. Thanks for the info. I'm not a rich man. But I know I'm going to have to spend money on this thing. A 80 dollar motor seemed way too much.

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                    • Guest

                      #55
                      Re: Dumas Akula

                      Are the magnets supplied for this sub adequate to hold the top down? Doesnt seem like it is.

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                      • Rogue Sub
                        Junior Member
                        • Jul 2006
                        • 1724

                        #56
                        Re: Dumas Akula

                        Those magnets are Ok but not that good. I eventually went with a screw down methode for my boat. It takes a few moments to pull apart but it wont come apart after a collision in the water.

                        Here is a picture of the velcro strap down they spoke of. I applied the Velcro to itself except for the part that adheres to the hull then ran silicone around the edges to ensure adhesion.






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                        • Rogue Sub
                          Junior Member
                          • Jul 2006
                          • 1724

                          #57
                          Re: Dumas Akula

                          I forgot to mention the motor. The motor dumas sells is a pittman (very high quality) motor but not absolutely necessary. They use that motor so that you can run the supplied prop direct drive without causing a substantial amp draw. I ended up using a speed 400 with a 4:1 gear reduction and having lots of power and really long run times.








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                          • Guest

                            #58
                            Re: Dumas Akula

                            Wow. Those pics have helped me a ton. My idea's are some what similar to yours. Good to see I'm on the right track. But my work is not as "clean" lack of a proper workshop will do that. But it's solid and functional. Sub number two will look cleaner.
                            thanks again.

                            Comment

                            • Rogue Sub
                              Junior Member
                              • Jul 2006
                              • 1724

                              #59
                              Re: Dumas Akula

                              That was all done (Akula) using a compas, sandpaper, files and a dremel... The two things you need more then a workshop are patients and a steady hand. Take your time and it will come out well. If you end up with a part that makes you say "not as good as I hoped" dont use it, start over.

                              If you need an more help let me know. I have built 2 of these and have refitted them with several different systems as I went. It was my learning boat and I did not hesitate to experiment.

                              Here is a picture of the first and second WTC I ever made.














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                              • Guest

                                #60
                                Re: Dumas Akula

                                O.k. Long time no post. I'm working over time at work and trying to kill a few minutes between shifts. I have a lot of pics of the sub. I've desinged and built a retractable and usable forward dive plane. The sub is comming along.

                                i'm about to buy my electronics. I'm looking at APC's. The only one I've found so far is from Casswell. it's 79 and has an automatic failsafe built in. It looks nice. But I found a pump at caswell that has a failsaife as well. I like the idea of the built in failsafe to the water pump. And I'd like to get a pure APC. Rogue subworks had one bit is no longer available. I don't have a credit card due to ex wife spending all my money. So I have to pay with pay pall. Anyone got any suggestions?

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