Refitting a Robbe Type VII

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  • tabledancer
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2005
    • 573

    #1

    Refitting a Robbe Type VII

    I am part way into refitting my new to me Robbe Type VII and have a few questions.As many of you know the Robbe boat has attaching panels that have the lower hull drains with the drain holes precut,what would be a good filler or putty to use to fill in these ugly gaps around each panel.I have some Tamiya Polyester putty laying around or would Milliput 2 part epoxy be better,I also have some glazing putty laying here.My next request is does anybody have any info about ModelBrass Metalworking?As I recall they had a brass deck for the Robbe boat but I haven`t seen anything about them in a long time.




    TD
  • Guest

    #2
    Re: Refitting a Robbe Type VII

    Can't speak for the Tamiya putty, although most two part polyester based putties (Bondo, Evercoat etc.) should work just fine. The milliput should stick well, although it can be a little viscous. Abrade the surface well.

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    • tabledancer
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2005
      • 573

      #3
      Re: Refitting a Robbe Type VII

      Thankyou.I just finished sanding everything down flush so I`ll probably do that filling later tonight.




      TD

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      • subkraft
        Junior Member
        • Jan 2009
        • 76

        #4
        Re: Refitting a Robbe Type VII

        ....I'm reworking mine currently. Some time back I converted it to a piston tank but have never really overcome the problem of the differential internal pressure. strengthened the screw joiner, did it in stainless etc but never really any good. About to retro fit a bayonet ring from Norbert Bruggen - this means removing the last 20mm of the internal tube from within the hull that has been built around it. This will be challenging...anybody else tried this? Can anybody confirm if this bayonet fitting will seal against the internal pressure change of a piston tank?

        A big attraction of going this way is that the elimination of the screw joiner means the threaded rod can run out into the forward flood area ( suitably enclosed of course) this means the tank can be situated further forward which should make the boat dive more realistically....instead of that slightly stern down attitude that results with the tank positioned too far back.

        the modelbrass deck is a beautiful thing but haven't seen much about them in a while. Soldering to it can produce some alarming warps...they go as the brass cools but try to keep the temp down.

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        • tabledancer
          Junior Member
          • Feb 2005
          • 573

          #5
          Re: Refitting a Robbe Type VII

          I got mine from a friend and just had to rewire the front end after a fire.The modifications that I am making will be all external.I will be adding an Accurate Armor conning tower,a modelbrass deck if one can be found,maybe an Alantic bow and drain holes in the rear part of the lower hull.I have 2 1/72 Revell boats with the modelbrass decks and love them both.The Accurate Armor tower is really nice but expensive.Also is just a little to big for the scale,but I will remedy that by the time it`s done!






          TD

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