1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

[PaulC]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Tom,

Great build thread! I'm really enjoying watching you work. The template was a great idea and the results look super.

One question regarding the forward hatch -- I see you scribed the circle for it. On the boats this area was flat with a fillet built up around it to fair it into the hull (you can see it in the shot of Grayling below). From the scribing image it looks like the hull is still round. Were you intending to build it up later?

[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Exactly Paul.
The scribe is sort of placeholder. The plan would be as you said to come back and apply a flat of material and fillet
it into the hull.



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[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

In an effort to produce the highest level of detail I can in this larger scale hull, I have started to focus on the safety track.
Most all just scribe in the track with 2 parallel lines and some transition to say a half round strip down the center area of the hull.

Below is a very close-up shot of the safety rail in the forward area where it is flush to the hull. (Best I have ever found anyway)

My first question is does anyone have a close up deck shot showing what the track looks like in the raised section.
Does it just have a cross section of say a train rail?

Secondly, how in the heck does this safety track function?

I assume this is the track that deck personnel attach a safety line to while on deck.
But how and what hooks onto this track being it is so wide? I just cannot picture it.
Forgive my ignorance but I am still learning the finer details of these things.



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[boss subfixer]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Tom,
The safety track is "T" shaped if you look at it in a cross section. As for how it functions, picture a link of chain (that's not what it is but it's a simple way to explain it) with part of the flat side removed, this is attached to the safety harness lanyard and there are certain areas along the safety track that allow the user to slip the link into or out of the track. I have a 1/96 Sturgeon, for the raised portion of the safety track I used flat styrene strips. At that scale it looks really good. From what you've done so far yours looks like it's going to be a real winner. I hope this helps.
Don

[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Thanks for the reply Don.
I think I understand what you are describing.
Sort of a C channel safety ring that can be installed under the T of the track
and dragged along the track as you move back and forth.

[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Well, I have to start somewhere with the detail components so I figure I might as well start with the MBT Vents.
Here I made one up from a washer and a piece of tubing over which I will pour a silicone mold.



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[boss subfixer]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Thanks for the reply Don.
I think I understand what you are describing.
Sort of a C channel safety ring that can be installed under the T of the track
and dragged along the track as you move back and forth.

Exactly.

[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

I had an urge to try and get the retractable cleats to actual function and allow me the option to have them open or retracted.
So I built up the storage locker and tried to carve out to cleats from basswoord.
Well after breaking them countless times as they are soooo small, I was sitting there thinking this just was not meant to be when I found myself staring at the clay on my workbench.
I took a small bit of it and super glued to to the pivoting base and began to shape with a toothpick tried to get it as close as I could to the final cleat shape.
Once this piece is cast I should be able to smooth it out even better as the casting plastic is very durable.
With the pin in place the cleat can be rotated by hand when desired but also has enough friction so as not to rotate while under way.
It was quite a challenge for such a small component.
Tomorrow I will cast the locker, cleat and pin in silicone for a mold.

Also, the MBT Vent mold cured and came out perfect.



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[Rogue Sub]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Did these cleats roll over in one solid piece or like the Ohio does in 2 pieces?

[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Currently the patterns here are a one piece cheat.
However, knowing it is really a two piece cleat as you say, once I cast these
parts in plastic they will be much more durable and I will then separate them and apply
two hinges for a two way flip. Those will then be the final parts for the model.

EDIT: Apparantly it was pointed out to me by a member (thanks Bill) that I built the cleat horns
backwards. Doh. Oh well, easy to fix.
Thanks for the heads up on that one.
-Tom

[bill rogers]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

For cleats on my 1:120 scale USS Will Rogers I'm using HO gauge railroad spikes. They're not spot on but they are close. Not sure if there is a train scale spike that would work for you but I like your idea of making the cleats retractable.

"Will" Rogers
SSBN659

[tom m]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

So, to be quite frank, even though that cleat looks like crap, it did help prove out a concept.
Should have done it this way in the first place.
Should be able to cast a nice mold off ot this template.
Got to love those 1/16th" End Mills.



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[Rogue Sub]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Thats the ticket! You got it dead on now

[bill rogers]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

How is this project coming along? We haven't seen anything for awhile.

[britt boyette]

Re: 1/48 USS GRAYLING SSN-646 STURGEON BUILD

Any updates to this project?