Ohio fitted out

[pirate]

This is my humble attempt at scratch built mechanical fittings for my Ohio.

Reverse RCABs set up is stolen from Dave Hampton, and of course the reverse RCABS is stolen from George Protchenko, and the original RCABs is stolen from Dr. Art Broder, and the PVC screw for access to the ADC and digital radio channel change button is from Big Dave Welch or Jim Butt. There, I think I gave everyone credit.

All seems to work out of the water, which is a big first step for me. We'll see how it works in the water once the water is soft enough to try it out.

[wayne frey]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Really, really nice, Pete!

[crazy ivan]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Don't forget the Brits who did it all 20 years ago, Pete!

[bigdave]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Nice job Pete!!
I love the caution stickers.
Did you get your glitch fixed? BD.

[thor]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Beautiful work, Pete! Well done.

[Rogue Sub]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Really excellent Pete. You should be very proud!

[pirate]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Thanks guys.

I believe I did get the glitch fixed—at least it is so minimal now it shouldn't matter. It's odd. Kevin Price suggested taking the gears off and running the motor, and maybe switching the motor, to see where it was finally coming from. Well, when I ran the motor alone outside the tray—no glitch what so ever. Then I dropped the motor onto the tray and part of the hull while it was running, and the buzz and vibration made the APC go nuts. So then I touched the running motor just to the tray, and it happened again. So the culprit was just vibration from the motor and metal gears being transmitted through the tray.

I got a pair of plastic gears and tried to isolate the tray from the motor and end cap it is attached to as much as possible. Kind of like the real boats how the decks are free-floating and cushioned from the hull for sound reduction, I used rubber bushings where the tray attached and touched the end cap. And now it works really well.

Thanks for all of the response and suggestions on getting rid of that glitching, all. I've not heard of it NOT being caused by electronics, so this was just a fluke that I found out it was vibration.

I had the whole boat ready to go together last week, and then when I tried to turn the lights on—ZAP, FLASH, SMOKE! What the heck! I quickly turned the whole thing off. Upon inspection, all of the wires going to the lights were hanging bare, with the insulation dangling off in all kinds of places. Turns out, the little (probably 30 guage) wires to the tiny LED I had up on the periscope mast fairing, must have gotten knicked. THey only had something like varnish coating on them, like motor winding wire, and they short circuited. Blew out the "S" light circuit that was attached to it (that's where the flash and smoke came from). So once I get a new circuit, coat the new tiny wires with shrink coating to protect them, I should be ready for a spring run soon.

[pirate]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Now I had used phone wire for my lights. The 18-20 gauge stuff. I'm running 12V system. Do you guys think I should use a bigger wire for these? Does it matter?

Pete

[Rogue Sub]

Re: Ohio fitted out

are the lights incandescent or led? I think you would be fine though as the amperage should be very low.

[pirate]

Re: Ohio fitted out

LED.

[steveneill]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Pete that's terrific work!

Steve

[Guest]

Re: Ohio fitted out

Here is a good website giving current carrying capacity.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

As you can see, even 20 gauge is plenty. As most LED's pull between 10-20mA, you have plenty of capacity.

[scott t]

Re: Ohio fitted out

If you go bigger wire that means more insulation which means mucho more smoke next time...
Hope there is not a next time for you.

Scott