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I've used both airbrush with Model Master...but not acrylic. I've found that the acrylic can fog when exposed to water for even the relatively short lengths of time we run our subs.
Floquil enamel is real good if you can find it. They are owned by Testors Model Master and those people really think acrylics are the future and have gotten rid of a lot of the old Floquil products.
Unfortunately, I've been using acrylics (I've also been using Future), so an enamel clearcoat may not be my best choice. I'll probably do some testing and maybe things will be fine.
I know some use Krylon clearcoat as their dull coat, but does anyone have a part number or picture of what they use? Krylon's website has so many different types of clear coat.
I have used Model Master Acrylic on static models in the past and it works fine for me,but as Jeff pointed out the short time that it is exposed to water it will fog and I`ve even had it peel off in places which makes for an interesting if not odd weathering,depending how you go back and finish it.
Also Future is a great high gloss clearcoat that can be used with static models but it is a water base and I think that it would also come right off when exposed to the water.
I have used Model Master Acrylic on static models in the past and it works fine for me,but as Jeff pointed out the short time that it is exposed to water it will fog and I`ve even had it peel off in places which makes for an interesting if not odd weathering,depending how you go back and finish it.
Also Future is a great high gloss clearcoat that can be used with static models but it is a water base and I think that it would also come right off when exposed to the water.
TD
I know, but it should be water resistant and it will be coated with a waterproof (presumably) dull clearcoat.
I know some use Krylon clearcoat as their dull coat, but does anyone have a part number or picture of what they use? Krylon's website has so many different types of clear coat.
I haven't tried it yet, but I just picked up from my local Walmart some Krylon acrylic crystal clear which is simply labeled FLAT and under that CLEAR. It seems Krylon no longer puts a paper label with the part number and color on the can, but over the bar code is the number 53530, if that means anything. I did not find this product listed on their website. I've had good results using the gloss crystal clear over Model Master enamels, so we'll have to see how it goes with the flat version.
I know some use Krylon clearcoat as their dull coat, but does anyone have a part number or picture of what they use? Krylon's website has so many different types of clear coat.
I haven't tried it yet, but I just picked up from my local Walmart some Krylon acrylic crystal clear which is simply labeled FLAT and under that CLEAR. It seems Krylon no longer puts a paper label with the part number and color on the can, but over the bar code is the number 53530, if that means anything. I did not find this product listed on their website. I've had good results using the gloss crystal clear over Model Master enamels, so we'll have to see how it goes with the flat version.
I use the Model Master Dull coat in the little spray cans. I believe it is a lacquer base, but that works fine over the acrylic weathering I put on my boat, and it's a lot tougher than an acrylic base clearcoat. Just use it out in the garage as it's a little stinky, but it doesn't take much to seal up things. I spray it on in very thin coats and it dries really fast. I know all paints say to use thin coats, but I never do except with this. I think it is fantastic stuff.
It's okay to spray over completely dry enamel and acrylic, but once you get something coated with it DON'T TRY TO PAINT ENAMEL ON TOP—IT WILL CRACKLE BAD! Waterbased acrylic is fine to put over top of it though.
I use the Model Master Dull coat in the little spray cans. I believe it is a lacquer base, but that works fine over the acrylic weathering I put on my boat, and it's a lot tougher than an acrylic base clearcoat. Just use it out in the garage as it's a little stinky, but it doesn't take much to seal up things. I spray it on in very thin coats and it dries really fast. I know all paints say to use thin coats, but I never do except with this. I think it is fantastic stuff.
It's okay to spray over completely dry enamel and acrylic, but once you get something coated with it DON'T TRY TO PAINT ENAMEL ON TOP—IT WILL CRACKLE BAD! Waterbased acrylic is fine to put over top of it though.
Pete
Thanks Pete!
If I understand what you're using correctly, I'm about to try out that exact clear coat, Testor's #: 1260. I think this is what I used on my Alfa V2, but I don't remember...maybe I used Krylon or even Testor's Lusterless Flat Lacquer (Testor's #: 1960).
I used the Krylon 1311 matte finish, and yes it does say moisture resistant, with no problems. I had the ruddy brown 1617 primer on the bottom half of the Akula (which is all I have painted, no comments BD) and the pool chemicals at the YMCA made white patches all over. I tried to wash it off, no go. So I repainted with more primer AND a coat of the matte finish, no problem since. The pool water does not bother the ultra flat black 1302 but I coated both colors anyways.
I used the Krylon 1311 matte finish, and yes it does say moisture resistant, with no problems. I had the ruddy brown 1617 primer on the bottom half of the Akula (which is all I have painted, no comments BD) and the pool chemicals at the YMCA made white patches all over. I tried to wash it off, no go. So I repainted with more primer AND a coat of the matte finish, no problem since. The pool water does not bother the ultra flat black 1302 but I coated both colors anyways.
Great to hear, I'll be sure to try that out too, hopefully.
I've noticed a paint effect recently on my 1/96 Permit hull. I used the solvent based Model Master Flat Clear as a finish coat. It really looked good when completed.
However, after several seasons of operations it appears to have been worn down at the base of the stern planes on the leading edge. Perhaps I applied it too thin but it would seem to be an area prone to flow friction, the occasional weeds, etc. Like I say it doesn't look like film failure. The paint looks like it has been wet sanded down to the primer -- which leads me to believe normal service wore it down. I'm planning to use an automotive urethane clear for my next project.
I've noticed a paint effect recently on my 1/96 Permit hull. I used the solvent based Model Master Flat Clear as a finish coat. It really looked good when completed.
However, after several seasons of operations it appears to have been worn down at the base of the stern planes on the leading edge. Perhaps I applied it too thin but it would seem to be an area prone to flow friction, the occasional weeds, etc. Like I say it doesn't look like film failure. The paint looks like it has been wet sanded down to the primer -- which leads me to believe normal service wore it down. I'm planning to use an automotive urethane clear for my next project.
Was that in a can? What was the manufacturer's number? 1260?
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