Hello here is my latest creation.
When I recieved this model from Austria and saw that it had a huge pressure hull and was intended for dynamic diving or buy the 300.00$ or so Engle pump I thought wow thats going to take alot of lead ,and as stated still wont dive staticly!
So I desighned a pump system that did not build up pressure,nor shift its cg as do the Engle pumps.
A single windshield gear pump with no valves directly connected to the PVC baffled tank takes care of the water coming in and out.
The difference is in the ventting,a pipe cut with several slits along the entire lenght of the tank is placed at the highest point in the tank.This pipe then exits the sub with a one way valve,and in my case it is vented at the sail since no bubbles are escaping the closed stern.
Also connected with a T fitting is the vacume line with a small solinoid the yellow one in the picture,this is to vent the pressure hull and any water that might enter the WTC,so every time it surfaces a vacume is produced in the pressure hull and the water /vacume is vented through the ballast tank.
Then there is another vent and solinoid to vent the presurre hull in case of the above should fail and is on a seperate channel.
This system cost me about 70.00$ ,from servos and microswitches to the 2 solinoids and 25.00 pump.The pump is the star of the hole thing it prodoces enogh volume and pressure to flood the large tank in just a few secounds not very fast but nice and scale like,same for serfaceing.
The best thing about this system is that its able to preciesly control the depth of the sub to a hover or all the way down or full empty with plenty of freeboard .The pump is a gear type and is well radio surpressed from the factory ,can run dry and will self prime for quite a distance.
I have tried 30 some pumps and this one beats them all,in cool running,efeciency and cost.
The ballast tank is an integral part of the frame and has 12 baffles that are not glued in,thats right the construction process I will post later and I wish I had done it this way before.
Also useing the same but another pump a levelling system is installed with syringes,they make great mini trim tanks!.Just by reversing the pump the same way as the ballast pump the sub is trimed via remote control.Water is used to go from stern to bow and at half point the sub is trimed level if neede,works very well.
Please guys I am not trying to sell you on this system as some of you have infered, but it just works and is very inexpensive and easy build and use. For those future Captains new to the hobby this is a safe ,green way to have a dynamic diving sub.
Robbe is currently going to review this system and get back with me.
Same as the drive very expensive and runs hot I bet.
What I did was to employ a Dewalt corddless drill motor and planetary geardrive that has built in thrust bearrings and clutch and cost about 60.00$ new then water cooled and hooked it up to 16 amp hours worth of power! 2 8.0 12 volt sealed lead acid batterries.
She runs for about 2.5 hours with the huge 5.5 inch prop.She displaces some thirty five pounds that alot less that the sub would have been if constructed from the manual.Also the pressure hull was shortened some 8 inches! Much too big originaly.The WTC can be removed easily to add on more stuff.She also has retractable cleats a nice scale touch,done by again another pump in the wet free flood area in the bow.
Yes I use Legos lovethem to death so easy to build what you want even the masts retract.
2 servos for the V tail not 4 as in the manual,and this sub gives great access to the stern planes area as the hole cone seperates with 3 screws,realy nice incase of maitenace.
If anyone has any questions on how I modified this great model get with me.
Hanles like a dream and the prop is a stainless steel unit from Andreas of Germany,very well made prop.
I highly recomend this kit but stay away from the acessoreis there is a cheaper better way to go.I scribbed the hull the best I could do and it came out prity nice for only the vent holes and sail mast openings are machined to perfection.I like this system so much that the Robbe XXI now on the ways will be done the same way,another great huge highly detailed kit.






More videos and pics on SCR Deep South ,Devils Den Fun Run 5
Ill post more on the cleats ect.
Dave Amor Ship Yard
Sorry for the spelling guys,hay it works.
When I recieved this model from Austria and saw that it had a huge pressure hull and was intended for dynamic diving or buy the 300.00$ or so Engle pump I thought wow thats going to take alot of lead ,and as stated still wont dive staticly!
So I desighned a pump system that did not build up pressure,nor shift its cg as do the Engle pumps.
A single windshield gear pump with no valves directly connected to the PVC baffled tank takes care of the water coming in and out.
The difference is in the ventting,a pipe cut with several slits along the entire lenght of the tank is placed at the highest point in the tank.This pipe then exits the sub with a one way valve,and in my case it is vented at the sail since no bubbles are escaping the closed stern.
Also connected with a T fitting is the vacume line with a small solinoid the yellow one in the picture,this is to vent the pressure hull and any water that might enter the WTC,so every time it surfaces a vacume is produced in the pressure hull and the water /vacume is vented through the ballast tank.
Then there is another vent and solinoid to vent the presurre hull in case of the above should fail and is on a seperate channel.
This system cost me about 70.00$ ,from servos and microswitches to the 2 solinoids and 25.00 pump.The pump is the star of the hole thing it prodoces enogh volume and pressure to flood the large tank in just a few secounds not very fast but nice and scale like,same for serfaceing.
The best thing about this system is that its able to preciesly control the depth of the sub to a hover or all the way down or full empty with plenty of freeboard .The pump is a gear type and is well radio surpressed from the factory ,can run dry and will self prime for quite a distance.
I have tried 30 some pumps and this one beats them all,in cool running,efeciency and cost.
The ballast tank is an integral part of the frame and has 12 baffles that are not glued in,thats right the construction process I will post later and I wish I had done it this way before.
Also useing the same but another pump a levelling system is installed with syringes,they make great mini trim tanks!.Just by reversing the pump the same way as the ballast pump the sub is trimed via remote control.Water is used to go from stern to bow and at half point the sub is trimed level if neede,works very well.
Please guys I am not trying to sell you on this system as some of you have infered, but it just works and is very inexpensive and easy build and use. For those future Captains new to the hobby this is a safe ,green way to have a dynamic diving sub.
Robbe is currently going to review this system and get back with me.
Same as the drive very expensive and runs hot I bet.
What I did was to employ a Dewalt corddless drill motor and planetary geardrive that has built in thrust bearrings and clutch and cost about 60.00$ new then water cooled and hooked it up to 16 amp hours worth of power! 2 8.0 12 volt sealed lead acid batterries.
She runs for about 2.5 hours with the huge 5.5 inch prop.She displaces some thirty five pounds that alot less that the sub would have been if constructed from the manual.Also the pressure hull was shortened some 8 inches! Much too big originaly.The WTC can be removed easily to add on more stuff.She also has retractable cleats a nice scale touch,done by again another pump in the wet free flood area in the bow.
Yes I use Legos lovethem to death so easy to build what you want even the masts retract.
2 servos for the V tail not 4 as in the manual,and this sub gives great access to the stern planes area as the hole cone seperates with 3 screws,realy nice incase of maitenace.
If anyone has any questions on how I modified this great model get with me.
Hanles like a dream and the prop is a stainless steel unit from Andreas of Germany,very well made prop.
I highly recomend this kit but stay away from the acessoreis there is a cheaper better way to go.I scribbed the hull the best I could do and it came out prity nice for only the vent holes and sail mast openings are machined to perfection.I like this system so much that the Robbe XXI now on the ways will be done the same way,another great huge highly detailed kit.






More videos and pics on SCR Deep South ,Devils Den Fun Run 5Ill post more on the cleats ect.
Dave Amor Ship Yard
Sorry for the spelling guys,hay it works.



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