Minimizing deck removal.

**theo** · 04-26-2008, 10:13 PM

Good evening!!!

Mylo,

First of all, more INFO about the size of your sub may help in getting good information. The biggest problem you may have is when you want to pressurize your compressed air bottles. By that I mean, the pressure you will be exerting on the fill valve may put additional pressure (stress) on your deck area. You might want to do a force test using a weight scale to see how much force you will be exerting on the deck area that the fill valve will be located. Once you determine the force that you will be exerting, then you can develop the support for the deck that will support the process of fill your 'bottles'. My guess is that you will be using airbrush propellant to fill your 'bottles' and using a check valve like those used when filling your car tires. All the other things can easily be done. The only other potential problem would be associated with the power On/Off switch. You may want to consider using a latching push button switch. That way you can add a rubber sleeve on the switch so that water doesn't get into the switch and RTV the rest of the switch to make it water tight. You may also want to add a water tight connector so that you can monitor and charge your batteries. I am using several connectors for connecting electrical wires between my 3 separate compartments and they are all water tight connectors. I just push them on and pull them off when I want you do some work on the sub. Let me know your thoughts!!

Jack

**tabledancer** · 04-26-2008, 11:44 PM

Hey Mylo,
I have been using

Hey Mylo,
I have been using a magnetic switch mounted under the deck and activated with a magnet hooked up to the gun on the rear deck of the c/t on my Gato.It is a very simple and cheap hookup,and it is very dependable.If you are interested check my Gato build thread over at S/P.Can`t get any simpler than that.Let me know I`ll get the info to you.

TD

p.s. I use the same system on my Type VII.

**raalst** · 04-27-2008, 08:15 AM

mylo,

you would have to

mylo,

you would have to think about charging safely.
you might want a charging connector but also some
wtc venting openings (to avoid hydrogen build up while charging).

also handy to dry out the interior after some condensing or leak.
you could even consider some drain plug. after a run there is always some moisture in the WTC.

the amount of risk from hydrogen is determined by the type of batteries you use (and I'm not informed enough to be able to recommend some specific type here, but the safest is to assume you have hydrogen
produced when charging)

also trimming is much easier when you can fine-tune your automatic leveller from outside the WTC.

depending on your dive system you might want to be able to refill
from outside too.

and all this to be weighted against having too much holes in the WTC.
Ain't easy..

**petn7** · 04-27-2008, 08:36 AM

Hey Mylo,
I have been using

Hey Mylo,
I have been using a magnetic switch mounted under the deck and activated with a magnet hooked up to the gun on the rear deck of the c/t on my Gato.It is a very simple and cheap hookup,and it is very dependable.If you are interested check my Gato build thread over at S/P.Can`t get any simpler than that.Let me know I`ll get the info to you.

TD

p.s. I use the same system on my Type VII.

Can you give any details as to your magnetic switch set up?

**JWLaRue** · 04-27-2008, 10:51 AM

Mylo,

For the air charging port,

Mylo,

For the air charging port, I'd take a look at using the ready ammunition hatch on the foredeck. It's nice and large.

For an on-off switch, some form of magnetic switch is probably best, but I must admit that for my large Type VII, I built a very small "wtc" that was just large enough to hold a switch. This was mounted underneath the deck where the capstan is located. Pulling up on the capstan turns the boat off, pushing it down turns it on.

-Jeff

**tabledancer** · 04-28-2008, 01:22 AM

I must admit that I

I must admit that I like Jeff`s method better,if you have the room for the extra WTC.In my case I just could`nt find the room in my Revell Type VII or my Gato.In the Gato the magnetic switch is hidden or mounted under the rear or gun deck of the c/t.The switch is activated by a magnet attached to the base of the 40mm gun assembly,to shut the power down you just lift the gun assembly out of the deck,to power up the boat you just replace it,simple.The switch is wired between the battery and wtc through the negative wire.The battery is mounted in the rear of the hull so there is no problem with the hookup which is just one wire.Very simple and very cheap.The magnetic switch came from "ALL ELECTRONICS" and was very cheap.For my Alfa I will use one of the periscopes to activate the switch,I like to keep things very simple,and hidden.I try to make use of different fittings on deck to operate things.I don`t care to see a switch sticking out of a hole somewhere to operate something.

TD

**tabledancer** · 04-28-2008, 02:15 AM

I hope this goes through.
http://www.postimage.org/Pqeq8BA.jpg

I hope this goes through.

**petn7** · 04-28-2008, 08:04 AM

Thanks for the info.

I thought

Thanks for the info.

I thought there was a magnetic switch where you just take a magnet and slide it against the WTC to turn it on, and slide it in the opposite direction to turn it off. Aren't there magnetic switches like this?

**tabledancer** · 04-28-2008, 01:34 PM

There might be,but I could

There might be,but I could not say for sure.If you had a strong enough magnet you might be able to use the same type of switch that I have been using,or you might be able to use a reed switch.Never tried it,it might be something to play around with though.But you would still have to remove the deck or some part of it to get at your magnet.

TD

**anonymous** · 04-28-2008, 01:46 PM

Re: Good evening!!!

Mylo,

First of all, more INFO about the size of your sub may help in getting good information. The biggest problem you may have is when you want to pressurize your compressed air bottles. By that I mean, the pressure you will be exerting on the fill valve may put additional pressure (stress) on your deck area. You might want to do a force test using a weight scale to see how much force you will be exerting on the deck area that the fill valve will be located. Once you determine the force that you will be exerting, then you can develop the support for the deck that will support the process of fill your 'bottles'. My guess is that you will be using airbrush propellant to fill your 'bottles' and using a check valve like those used when filling your car tires. All the other things can easily be done. The only other potential problem would be associated with the power On/Off switch. You may want to consider using a latching push button switch. That way you can add a rubber sleeve on the switch so that water doesn't get into the switch and RTV the rest of the switch to make it water tight. You may also want to add a water tight connector so that you can monitor and charge your batteries. I am using several connectors for connecting electrical wires between my 3 separate compartments and they are all water tight connectors. I just push them on and pull them off when I want you do some work on the sub. Let me know your thoughts!!

Jack

Boy. Someome isn't paying attention is he boys? a 1/25 Type 7. He's had a building thread for over a year. go check it out. You won't believe your eyes.

Steve

**JWLaRue** · 04-28-2008, 02:47 PM

Re: Good evening!!!

Boy. Someome isn't paying attention is he boys? a 1/25 Type 7. He's had a building thread for over a year. go check it out. You won't believe your eyes.

Steve,

Good one!

-Jeff

**anonymous** · 04-28-2008, 04:04 PM

Couldn't resist a chance to

Couldn't resist a chance to slip one out the tubes when no one was paying attention! LOL!

Jeff post a link for the gentleman.

Steve

**mylo** · 04-28-2008, 04:52 PM

Steve,

Yes, ....I didn't think

Steve,

Yes, ....I didn't think a lengthy introduction about my sub was going to be required. I was suspecting that my usual familiar and most trustworthy followers would pipe up with a solution / answer but hey.....good to see new input, I appreciate it all.

As well Steve, I would appreciate it if you would be more on the ball in terms of my building time frame ..... it's been a year.......and a HALF.

Mylo ....builder of a 1:25 scale VIIc/41 for a year....and a half.

**mike dory** · 05-05-2008, 11:37 AM

CO2 Ballast System

Mylo - Charging up CO2 tanks mounted in your Sub via an outside port, may not be the safest or wisest... Just a heads up, But when filling a CO2 air bottle, The way to ensure it is within the safety zone, is by putting it on the scale to check it's weight. Now I supose you could find a scale that could weigh your entire boat with but I'm not sure you would find it very practical to use, each time you fill your air flasks. There are several Sub Committee menbers who would be happy to tell you about having over fillied there Air bottles and the damage it cased when the safety disk went off. Some in there boats, others in there tool boxes. Let's just say it was some what of a shock. (This is one of the reason some of use stay with low pressure air like Super Duster 134, 60 to 90 PSI depending on the outside temp. Is far easier to work with then 2500 PSI. I'm sure others will chime in here. But the bottom line is if your going to use CO2 bottles they need to be able to be weighed..... Best Wishes.... Mike Dory

Minimizing deck removal.

Minimizing deck removal.

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