sub noobie.. jumping into 1/144 model convert

[reckless]

okay so I'm new to subs.. but not to modeling (it's just been awhile)

anyways.. so I'm yet another jumping in with both feet and doing a scale model convert

I'm looking at the trumpeter 1/144 GATO just cause it's a lil bigger then the the U boats

for controls/power.... the guts from an air hogs Storm launcher... heh.. yeah it's just going to be dynamic dive for now .. wet hull .. and hopefully enough power to breach the surface and the clear the water on occasion

said gutted storm launcher is getting proper 4ch convert, and brushless power... I know there are others on the market that would be "easier" but I just really like the storm launchers 'hull' and twin props


anyways... back on subject.. those who did model coverts ... I;d like to get as close to neutral boyency as possible so I don;t have to keep porposing up and down under the water.. but ofcourse I do want it to atleast be able to rise back up on 'dead stick' just... slowly.. really slowly.. like.. eventually .

so what kind success have others had between almost completely neutral boyancy and keeping that nice scale looking waterline for surface running?

[wayne frey]

There has been some really

There has been some really good sucess in converting static hull kits to working,operation radio controlled submarines.
Crazy Ivan, Dave Welch, and David Merrimen have all converted the Revell Gato to RC.
If you would like to see examples of this,get the Subregatta DVD for 2007 shown for sale in the General section of this website.
Both David Welch and Caswell sell conversions for the Revell.
Welcome aboard !!

[fung pang]

It is no fun to

It is no fun to stuff a very small sub like the 1/144 WWII sub will mini RC gears. you need micro RC gears.

if you want to use the air hogs Storm launcher (from big box store), I would try the 1/144 USS SSN-21 Seawolf or the 1/144 Russian Kilo from Trumpeter.
is cheaper, bigger and more room to stuff it.

if you have to have a WWII sub, try the Revell type VII in 1/72. but it may be too big for the air hogs Storm launcher guts to move it.

or use the Revell OLD sub kit type VII(for some reason this boat has been RC more then other small sub) and fleet boat.

[aeroengineer1]

I have looked at the

I have looked at the Trumpy Gato, and it would be possible, but not easy as a first boat. If you have a lathe and other good shop tools at your disposal, then go for it, if not, I would go with some of the other boats.

Adam

[crazy ivan]

Reckless,

To address your question about

Reckless,

To address your question about buoyancy, you will find yourself at odds trying to attain both neutral buoyancy and a scale waterline in a dynamic diver. That takes a variable ballast tank, and a BIG one at that with the Gato. While you can come close with something like a Dumas Akula, there is just too much volume of material above the surface on a fleetboat to get it to dive dynamically, unless you run decks awash with your surfaced trim.

Another thing about dynamic divers; as any sub goes deeper, water pressure will begin to compress the pressure hull somewhat. How much depends on the design and composition of the hull. Any flotation foam will compress as well. If your dynamic diver is truly trimmed near neutral, there will come a depth where it will go negative, insuring that it will never come back up on its own. Better to control porpoising by fitting an Automatic Pitch Controller to your stern planes.

[reckless]

thanks for the all the

thanks for the all the input guys

I've revised my plans a little... I've got the SL gear enroute should be here in a couple days.

I think I'll compromise and run decks awash for my neutral bouyancy .. though I will try to get it to the point that the deck is above the surface. if I have to I can probably use the planes and some trimming too get to close to scale water line... if not oh well

as for depth.. I don't plan on diving below a foot

the engines will be open in the hull.. no sealing on the prop shafts or diveplane shafts. so wet hull... the elec unit, stripped lipo and servo should take less then 1/3 of the hull.. then I will get to play the game of balancing bouyancy from the flooded hull and foam

I'll start a build thread when all my stuff is sitting on my bench

[reckless]

okay

I've got the model

I've got

okay

I've got the model

I've got the SL guts.. all the electronics and battery, minus the engines should take up like 6inchs TOPS of the hull

picked up some thin clear plastic.. I think it's mylar I'll have to check ... for the rudder hinge and small flaps to ride part of the prop wash to make the rudder swing some with the variable thrust and return

as to try and not screw with the scale appearance the lil thrust wash peices under the rear dive planes (which will be mounted solid)

and I'll be using the clear plastic to expand the area of the front dive planes... again hopefully not screwed in too much with the scale appearance

the elec motors will be 'sealed' and left open in the hull... no stuffing box on the driveshafts or the rod used for the front dive planes. it;s gonna be a wet flooded hull anyways.

now here's where I need a bit of advice... the lil box for the electronics it needs to be sealed .. but I need to be able to open the top to get the battery in and out to recharge it

anyone got some examples they can throw up?

[reckless]

another question... as mentioned in

another question... as mentioned in my build log

okay... the kit props are insanely fragile

they are 3/4 inch (or 20 mm) I found some .6 x .75 (dia and pitch) 4 blade bronze props and some .7 x 1.0 4 blade bronze props....

the .6 dia prop runs on a 1/16 shaft (no threads)
the .7 dia prop runs on a 2/56 thread

I bought 1/16 stock for shafts as they were the best fit to the kits parts.. so I need an opinion... I will be epoxying the props on... the slightly smaller props are a perfect fit to my shafts... the 'scale' size props I will have to hope to get epoxied within the threads and sitting perfect

which would you guys suggest?.. the motors going into the kit are being rewired to both run same direction.. so I'll be running both left hand props instead of counter rotating. but the motors going into the kit will be very very over powered (if it gets over 1/4 throttle for even 'fast' over scale speed I'll be astonished LOL ) .. so running a HAIR smaller prop shouldn't make a difference. should it?