Scale Ships's Akula II Stern problem

[corsaire]

Hi Guys,

Again, coming to these boards to ask the experts on this, although I have some obvious ideas how to successfully put it together, my challenge (as it perhaps is been yours too) is:
How to build it to make it detachable / serviceable?

From the pictures you can tell I have yet to install the stern planes, not yet done as I have to first attach/glue both stern pieces to do it right, since they go exactly on the very seam, where both two stern pieces meet.
Now, that's ok.
Problem is that I'll be forced to install the full rudder set up (shafts, moveable pieces and even the jumper) prior to gluing the two halves, as I won't be able to do it once the two stern halves are epoxied.
The same pretty much will be with the planes after the stern halves and rudders are done.
How can one work around this? In other words, the problem is the rudder and plane shafts, as they can only be run through from the inside of the hull, not the outside which would be ideal for service as they could be detachable, even for when painting the model.
How is this done?
Any ideas,

Thanks,

Corsaire

[JWLaRue]

If you really want to

If you really want to be able to install the top tail cone and horizontal fixed surfaces without also installing the moveable surfaces, the following is something that I've done for a few of my r/c subs:

- install square tubing in the moveable dive surfaces. Cut flush with the parts so that nothing sticks out.

- find solid square rod that is the next size down from the tubing installed in the dive surfaces.

- install round tubing in the fixed part of the horizontal stabilizers...both the inboard and outboard edges. This round tubing needs to be the correct size to accept the solid square rod and allow it to rotate.

- install the same size tubing in the hull.

- glue the various fixed parts together.

- when it comes time to install the moveable surfaces, the solid square rod is inserted through the outer edges of the fixed surfaces. The rod needs to be just long enough to penetrate into the hull so that the control arm can be attached *and* to be flush with the outer edge of the fixed surface.

...hope this somewhat lengthy explanation makes sense,

Jeff

[corsaire]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks a lot for

Hi Jeff,

Thanks a lot for the feedback. I'm sure it makes sense and works since you've already done it a few times but man I'm having a hard time
visualizing your explanation in my particular set-up, talk about "putting a square peg into a round hole", so to speak.
Perhaps you mean that's workable provided your building the parts from scratch ? 'cause I can't see it happening in this set up (see pics).
The rudder (already installed) and planes bearings are exactly 3.1 mm, enough to accomodate perfectly and snugly the 3 mm (provided by Scale Ships) shafts, also the orifices of the appendages are exactly 3mm, so how would it all fit in my particular stern set up per your explanation?
Thanks,
Brian

[JWLaRue]

I've done it with a

I've done it with a kit hat had the rods pre-cast in the moveable surfaces. Just pull the rods out and push the square, solid rod in. The resin material is almost certainly soft enough to allow this.

...it literally is a square peg in a round hole!

As for the already installed bushings in the hull.....take them out if they're the wrong size.

-Jeff

[corsaire]

So it is actually the

So it is actually the small solid square rod where the collar/bell crank will be attached to, which by the way will do all the rotating work, and this small solid square rod inside the round tubing running through the hull into the outer fixed appendage, flush with it, needs to also slide passed a bit into the square tubing already installed in the moveable piece just enough for it to enable rotation left and right. Very ingenious indeed!
Only one problem, given the shape and design of the Akula's appendages, it has an indentation on the moveable pieces which complicates things, if it didn't have that it would be much easier I guess, plus I don't think I'd have the guts to mess up such fine pieces of work by Vladimir, I could break them in doing so. Besides, the fixed rudders are already installed, and I'm sure it would've worked w/ them too.

Clever idea for another project, I' d need to practice on some scrap first!

Thanks a lot,

Brian

PS This technique perhaps should be the standard when fabricating appendages, they should be done with a built in square tubing, this would facilitate service and detachment. How hard can it be Vladimir?
Did you hear Dave also?

[Rogue Sub]

Have you looked at my

Have you looked at my build thread on this boat. I came up with a pretty simple solution.