Trumpter Seawolf

[wayne frey]

I had to work this

I had to work this weekend, so not much got done. However, I won't have to work another weekend for a while.
I did remove the index tabs except for the very front and rear,plus the small ones I added at the aft upper. I plan to add a fuller index lip and tighten up the gap on the upper and lower next weekend, and some minor details. I also smoothed out hte bow plane roots, as changes to the front are going to leave little room inside. It also turns out opening up the bow inside is going to come into play also later.

[wayne frey]

Well, I had to work

Well, I had to work again to help a co-worker, so little time this weekend also,darn it!!
However, my plan are not thwarted too badly. My classified package is in transit for the Seawolf, so I am really just screwing around while I am waiting..
I continued,if only slightly,on fitting the hull halves. I would up removing the remaining tabs between the halves, and going with a full lenght lip on the lower,stopping just shy of the front and rear for the essential upper tabs, otherwise the hull would misalinged.
Here is the current mission:

I wanted to tighten up that gap. So I put blue tape on the upper hull half, keeping it tight and smooth on the edge. I then put the halves together and used Q-tips to press in some evercoat into the seam and against the index lips. If this goes as before, I will wet sand it (I love wet sanding stuff!!) until the blue tape gives way to the true edge of the upper half. Then, seperate the hull halves,remove the existing/remaining tape, and finish out sanding until it is completely smooth.
I had already done this on the back upper section of the stern with reasonable success earlier this week. The gap should be down to the thickness of the tape (better and enough), and "relaxed fit" (no pressure required to be tight).


I had to put on the evercoat in two moves. The first nearly filled the gaps,but had the slightest recess to it. Since wet sanding the whole affair only takes minutes, I went ahead, as Kevin pointed out before, and globbed on the next layer. I did not want to have to come back on low spots. It is excessive, but when done, should come out like the stern top side did.
So, back next weekend to finish up the other side, and do something about that overbite!!
Package X should be arriving about then...

[wayne frey]

I am still not satisfied

I am still not satisfied with upper/lower fit. I will mess with it a little more, then go with whatever I have. Bow planes were added also.

Here is Big Dave's new RCAB system for the Seawolf.
Thought I would give it a try, and go a different direction than Kevin's nice boat.
Both Big Dave and Caswell/ Merrimens systems are excellent, giving the builder a choice of apples or oranges. Both are proven reliable.

I have a good two weeks of 14 hour days at work, so not much will happen, and going out of town next weekend. I will post soon as I can.

[petn7]

Wayne,

I presume you're using a

Wayne,

I presume you're using a Reverse RCABS ballast system? Is that potato looking thing a custom copper pressure bottle?

EDIT: Nevermind, I saw Big Dave's website and I see you ordered his kit. Interesting stuff.

[wayne frey]

A quick posting. Since I

A quick posting. Since I had to work too much again.
I did pull off getting the display stand done. It was a test of the paints to be used for the model, and I am satisfied with the turnout of the colors.
I also replaced the mast with a 3/16 brass rod to be a little sturdier. A hand drill had to be used, as any kind of high speed drill or dremel just melts the plastic badly before the hole gets going good. It is in flat whilte waiting on the black trim out and lepoard spots to be added.
An option on Big Dave's Deluxe reverse RCAB kit is the motor modified with the correct shaft for the conversion. For $20.00, you get the motor already modifed, and is well worth it. The standard motor,on the left, is shown for compairision.

[wayne frey]

At some point one has

At some point one has to let go on the details, and get on with it!!!
I feel the end result is pretty decent, and self inflicted overkill on the fit of the upper to the lower. Remebering Gail Phillips thoughts on "stand off scale", I decided it was time to let go on the looks, and move to the WTC.
But before I did, something had to be done to inspire the process along. I hit the hull with a 400, then 600 sandpaper, after rescribing the lines, then tried a test shot of my paint of choice for this boat.
I am trying out the "Painter's Choice Flat Black", which seems to have turned out ok. It will get nicked a few times in fitting/trimming, but hey, that's alright. When I am done, I will re-wet sand with the 600 slightly, and reshoot the whole hull, lay the decals, and do the "Painter's Choice Flat Clear" like I did on the impellor and the display stand (test shots). The mast is painted in the same "Painter's Choice Flat White" (all found at your local Home Depot), to prep the brass mast I replaced from the bendo-flexo kit mast.
Anyway, work has finally got us some more help, so build time is about to finally pick up. But first one more weekend of work, a quick trip to Florida, and settle into the WTC build.

[Rogue Sub]

Sound the trumpets this one

Sound the trumpets this one is coming home!!!

WTG

[wayne frey]

Just a quicky today. A

Just a quicky today. A detail...
The mast.
DONT USE A DREMAL ON PLASTIC TO DRILL!!!! It melts before cutting. I just kissed the top of the periscope shear, then remembered as it instantly started to melt and distort it. However, I had been careful, and only slightly did it. A hand drill is the ticket.
I had cut off the plastic rod and drilled the shear for a brass rod. It was tight, and I had to be careful. Not much room for error. I even went for points for style and did a small angle file at the top front of the rod for the lens...
I decided against the decal for the shear, and got all small. I used, once again, the trio of "Painter's Choice flat white, flat black, and flat clear. I sprayed a white base coat, then taped off the top and bottom of the shear.
In keeping with doing this with common stuff, I used a small plastic cup and sprayed some paint into it for the flat black, and brushed in the top and bottom in black. I then removed the tape, and used the same paint in the cup, and a fine paintbrush, and put the tiger spots on the shear and mast. I then rubbed that angle for the lens location until the paint was gone on the face, to show a glint in the front. Then I hit the whole thing with two coats of clear and called it done.
WTC work should be next...

[wayne frey]

Now on to the WTC...


Now on to the WTC...
Two types are out there for the builder. Kevin used the Merrimen/ Caswell subdriver. An excellent choice. Nearly a drop in and go.
I elected to try one of Big Dave's new RCAB-R setups, just to give it a whirl. Both are good choices for the builder. You can't go wrong.
Big Dave's deluxe RCAB-R kit is pretty neat. Definately get it as complete as possible. The mods to the motor are worth the $25.00 extra dollars.
Anyway, it feels like the path less traveled, and so far, I am having fun doing it
For those curious, I will show an RCAB assembly from the vantage point of never having done it, and seeing how the average joe can plow through this.
Anyway, here goes...
Starting with mounting the motor. Centering the BH1 seal (the hole is slightly oversized for adjustment) I RTVed that dude in place. On this particular endcap, one of the motor gears just touched the cap. A few moments with the dremel, and it spun free and clear. No problem.
With a modified Dave motor, the correct shaft comes installed, the long bolt housing is resized for a slightly larger (and provided) screws.
I drilled carefully the mounting holes so as to not go through the cap, then gently ran a tap through it for all three mounting points. Assembly after that was stragiht forward.

I saw no reason not to mount the linkage seals, so I put them on because I had to work a few days, allowing all the time to cure. Here I was very careful to make sure there was a good seal, and RTV packed between the seal and the endcap, in hopes of extended operationa and crush depth
I then made up some brackets and got some plastic square tubing and mounted the servos, upside down, per Dave's extremely detailed instuctions and CAD drawings.

[tmsmalley]

Nice work Wayne - very

Nice work Wayne - very professional.

[Rogue Sub]

Yeee Haaaa Texas!

You gonna make

Yeee Haaaa Texas!

You gonna make the bow planes work aswell? Better have that thing running for the regatta this year!

Kevin

[wayne frey]

WTC linkages.
Stern planes only

WTC linkages.
Stern planes only with the Big Dave conversion. The bow will be full of wtc. However, the Seawolf is small enough that the stern planes should more than suffice.
Anyway, I had to get from the little servos to outside the wtc,passing through a 1/8 seal, finishing with some kind of attachment for stern controls.
Ok, I did just that. First I turned down the ends of my 1/8 rod pass throughs. One end to put a sleeve on it to adapt a smaller rod, and the other for a threaded rod to fit over.

Merrimen/Caswell Click ons got the nod for attaching the WTC linkages to the stern controls. Saw them at the regatta last year. Cool and trick!! No tools needed to disconnect them.
But, there is not a whole lot of room in the aft end of the Seawolf, so I bobbed the resin part down about half the origional threaded lenght, and shortened the threaded rod about half also. Still got good bite there, so no problem. I then soldered them on the linkage rods, and went to the other end.
Here, I slipped the sleeve over the turned down rod, and added the smaller bent-to shape rod that went down to the servo arm.
The servo arm had to be slightly enlarged for the linkage to fit. No problem. Everything was checked to ensure free movement without binding, and a light coat of oil was put on the shaft to work itself to the shaft seals.
Got from A-Z like this ][/url]

[wayne frey]

Viper speed controller is now

Viper speed controller is now mounted to the front of the servo bracket.
And the Subtech APC4 fit nicely on the top.
The rear section is now basically finished.

Moving forward, I went with the black cat antenna to the Novak reciever reccomended in the detail instructions from Big Dave.

I then soldered the short brass tubing to the angle brackets that will be adhered to the bulkhead that transitions the smaller lexan tube from front to back. It was a quick matter to bend the flat brass and drill it to fit the brackets. Inside of the mount, goes the pump itself, with a clippard valve to be bolted ahead of this.

[pirate]

Looks great Wayne. Look forward

Looks great Wayne. Look forward to seeing it in person in Carmel.

Your APC-4 is mounted backwards. Just kidding.

Pete

[wayne frey]

For a moment, you had

For a moment, you had me
I am quite busy, but taking some time off and going to Florida for a while.
Sometimes, ya just gotta step away.
But I am pretty pleased with building my own wtc. I can tell you I have tons of respect for the way Merrimen cranks out all of his.
Big Dave is tons of help here. I needle him with small questions over coffee all the time.
Yes, I am looking forward to coming this year again to see everybody.