Engel Type IX D2
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It's now July 21st and
It's now July 21st and I've decided to do some detailing by gluing down a few thin plastic strips to simulate the large, timber hatches that run along the edge of the sub's deck.

Gluing is complete.

I'll paint them all black then lightly brush over some timber colour.

Still no ballast tanks yet. Hopefully in a couple of days.
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Thank you very much.
I can't
Thank you very much.
I can't seem to find "Jeff L" in the memberlist.
Very soon I'll be messing up my Type IX (U861) with a fair bit of rust, so I hope I don't affect her smooth lines too much. I'm big on weathering and can't wait to rust the living daylights out of her.
I even use REAL rust.
Can you help me with contacting "Jeff L" at all?
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Ballast tanks & switching system
Ballast tanks & switching system have arrived. Guess what I'll be doing today??????
Does anyone have any particular advice for installing the tanks into the Engel Type IX that would help me avoid any possible disasters?
Dave
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Now I'm having issues with
Now I'm having issues with "clamp, or not to clamp" the hull to the WTC when fibreglassing!!!!!!!!!!!
If I do that, I'm losing about 3mm on either side of the hull and it will be too narrow for the top hull/deck to fit into. I will therefore be attempting to fix the WTC into the hull WITHOUT clamps when fibreglassing.
Has anyone else had this problem?
This is only one of quite a few problems I've had with Engel's instructions and measurements!!!!!!!!

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Weathering
Today I've started rusting the sub using my home-grown method of applying real rust. It actually stains the enamel of the hull and doesn't need an overcoat of varnish.


I still haven't fibreglassed in the WTC section as yet. I'm struggling to pluck up the courage to do it although I'm sure I've figured out a method of not screwing it up this time.
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After taking the leap of
After taking the leap of faith and fibreglassing the WTC into the hull, I've begun floatation tests in the test tank. I won't be testing the ballast tanks until the fibreglass has completely cured tomorrow afternoon.

She's sitting a bit high in the water at the moment, but as soon as I decide on exactly what battery packs to use I'll add some more lead ballast. The rusting also needs a bit more work.
I just hope she's WATER TIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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If I new more about
If I new more about this boat and how Engel works their set up,
I could have advised somehow, but I do not!
With that said, we can now ask you how it is done,
your work looks right on my friend, and you are moving full speed ahead!!
Brian
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Thanks Brian,
but your comments
Thanks Brian,
but your comments are a tad premature I'm afraid. I've had to remove everything except the Ballast Tanks from the WTC. The Engel plans and instructions call for approx. 3.5kg of lead ballast. In the above photos I have at least 5kg and shortly after added even more lead and she still is not down to the water line, being the top of the red hull. Even with both ballast tanks full, she only lowers 10mm or so into the water. i.e. she doesn't submerge!!!!!!!!!!
Ergo, I removed everything from the WTC, including the lead ballast so that I could tidy things up and make more room for LOADS & LOADS OF LEAD.


So far I've managed to get it down to the level shown in the photos. It's getting very difficult to carry as it weighs quite a lot. I need to totally re-think the application of the lead ballast and the electronic equipment tray that holds the battery pack, servos & switches.
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EMERGENCY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Has anyone else had problems
EMERGENCY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Has anyone else had problems with the Engel switches?????
After working properly for over a week (on the workbench) now only the Bow ballast tank will operate properly while the Aft tank refuses to fill. It's motor turns for a second then stops while the Bow tank continues to fill.
I'm assuming that one of the relays for the aft tank is faulty and stays on a "Failsafe" mode.
I say a faulty relay seems the problem because on two (2) seperate occasions the Aft tank worked properly for a short period then resumed its "surface" mode.
All lights on the switch board are working as they should, by the way.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME?????????????????
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Dave,
It's been my experience that
Dave,
It's been my experience that the micro-switches can easily get out of alignment, causing incorrect behavior of the piston tank.
What worked best for me was to disconnect the fancy electronics and verify that each piston works correctly....as in that voltage applied will cause the jack screw to run all the way in and out and that the cut-offs work as designed.
If the pistons are shown to be working as designed, then re-connect any electronics (TMAX, etc.) that you may be using. At this point, I'd put the electronics back into 'learn mode' to make sure that they are able to identify the end points (and middle) of the jack screw runout.
-hope this helps,
JeffRohr 1.....Los!
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Jeff,
While disconnecting the Aft tank
Jeff,
While disconnecting the Aft tank from the switch board I noticed that I'd actually hooked up two of the micro switches in the wrong order. I immediately reconnected in the correct order and wouldn't you know it, IT WORKS FINE!!!!!!
I should really wear my glasses more often when building these things......
Now it's back to the test tank and sort out the ballast issue, which is getting very, very close.
Thanks for your feedback mate.
Dave
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