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I've found some LEDs that are the exact shape,size and look for the Robbe Type XXI. What I'd like to do is just hook them up to a battery with a switch in the tower. What I'd like is some input on is how to waterproof the system.
Do you want to hook them upto the main drive battery, or use sperate batteries.
If the former I'd advise the use of a voltage regulator and resistors.
Unless you are using the boat in salty or brackish water, waterprooofing the connections shouldn't be necessary, although a smear of epoxy on the leads wouldn't do any harm.
Hi Salt6,
I would like to offer the following information for you to consider. First, typical LED's require about .010 amps of current to illuminate. Thus, by taking the voltage you wish to use and dividing it by the current, you will know what value of resitor to use. The wattage size does not matter so you can use a 1/8 watt resistor or larger. If you are using a 6 volt system, then the resistor value would be about 600 ohms.
It may be easier to attach the wires, about 22 gauge, as close to the LED as possible, about 1/8 inch. Caution, you cannot use a great deal of heat this close to the LED so it is better to "tin" the wire and the LED first and the solder them together. If you take some small heat shrink tubing, you can put some epoxy on the connection before you shrink it. Slide the tubing over the connection, then shrink it. The epoxy will "squirt" out the ends out the tubing and attach to the LED.
One other suggestion is to take the intended wires, stick them in the end of a drill, and twist them together.
Hope all of this helps.
Best, Ed
I'd definitely use heat shrink tubing on the LED leads, not for waterproofing but to make sure that the leads do not touch and short out the battery.
Other than that, I'm with Andy.....no need to waterproof if being used in relatively fresh water (freshwater lake, chlorinated pool, etc.). I've been running sail and rudder LEDs in my Skipjack for years with no problems. I also connect it to the main drive battery with an appropriate resistor.
Just my 2 cents, I've used the heat shrink method but instead of epoxy I use RTV (silicone) or silicone bath caulk. It squirts out the ends as you shrink the tubing then cures. I've done this for years on trailer connections (Y connections are tough to seal well) in the snow and salt here in New York state winters. Never a failure (knock on wood).
Hey Ramius II, thanks for the details. I've wondered for years how to figure the type of resistor to use. Now I've got something else to do on my boat.
Thanks Guy! I'm going to put a box in th esail for the battery (9v) and a switch. Just read the other thread on water tight switches and I've got it pretty much figured out.
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