Trumpeter Seawolf Start

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  • anonymous

    #16
    Your work is excellent Dan.

    Your work is excellent Dan. So nice to see.

    Steve

    Comment

    • tmsmalley
      SubCommittee Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 2376

      #17
      A lot of guys who

      A lot of guys who build Dave's kits use the Spy ESC - Tower has them for about $60. It's smaller than the SC-10.



      Check with Dave on the battery pack - it does sound a bit heavy. Weight is a major consideration with a sub of this size. Also try to keep the weight at the bottom of the model for stability.

      Comment

      • bigdave
        Junior Member
        • Feb 2003
        • 3596

        #18
        Hi Dan,
        The Spy

        Hi Dan,
        The Spy is an excellent choice, but the Mtroniks is great too. The APC has a built in MPD (Sub Safe). So if you use a APC you are all set. You only need five batteries for the 6v if the 6 cells are too heavy. Since the batteries are removeable give it a try. You will need to add ballast to the keel anyway so see if it will trim out with the larger pack. BD.
        sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
        "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

        Comment

        • danl
          Junior Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 39

          #19
          Steve, Thank you.
          Tim, Installed the

          Steve, Thank you.
          Tim, Installed the Mtroniks already cuz I had it. Batt pac "rolled" (see pic) to hug bottom of cylinder for low CG.
          Dave, Cancelling the order for Subsafe. Funny they didn't tell me I didn't need it with the APC4.

          Thanks much for the fast response - helps keep me moving ahead.

          DanL

          Pics - pretty std construction.
          Tail is gray primered and all planes work really well.
          Foam float/periscopes is hokey, but works in a sink. Stll looking for betetr method.
          Rulon bearing used in shaft support inside hull. Put a sleeve of neoprene tubing around it to absorb vibration and alow for slight play.
          Yellow "gunk" ring inside hull is polyurethane glue. It sticks hard and foams on setting. Used it to make a very firm supporting rib around inside circumference and at mechanical mounting points. Have to practice to get the right effect.
          Pwr microswitches activated by ext lever. DPDT switch allows for "power on" position and in "power off" position cnnctions are made for charging batts in place in the cylinder. Wingnut is a vent plug to use to equalize P and to vent during charging. White norprene hose is to protect charging posts - no other function.
          Thinking of throwing in dessicant pack each time WTC is sealed. SOP for U/W camera housings. Should prevent any cond. probs.






          Comment

          • danl
            Junior Member
            • Oct 2006
            • 39

            #20
            Is heeling over on turns

            Is heeling over on turns an issue? If so, would operating bow planes, moving oppositely, help "bank" the boat into turns?
            Planning to make 'em operational w/simple mechanical linkage from the rudder actuating link if it would help in turns.
            Will post linkage pic maybe later tonight.

            Comment

            • bigdave
              Junior Member
              • Feb 2003
              • 3596

              #21
              Not on mine. She rides

              Not on mine. She rides nice. One nice thing about a pump jet is you don't get torque roll. BD.
              sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
              "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

              Comment

              • anonymous

                #22
                Dan,

                You did see my video.

                Dan,

                You did see my video. Right? If not I'll post it. No leaning over here either. It's all in the ballast and trimming.

                steve

                Comment

                • danl
                  Junior Member
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 39

                  #23
                  Saw the Seawolf video -

                  Saw the Seawolf video - very cool. Can a tighter, faster turn be made if the boat banks into it? Do prototypes bank?
                  More practical questions - getting well along in the build. Do I wait to adjust final fore/aft location of WTC until after testing for trim, etc?
                  With this WTC, is the ballast point just where the boat will barely sink with the bag empty or do you ballast pretty heavy, requiring, say, 25% air in the bag to stay afloat? Basic question, I guesss, is what are the steps to ballasting/trimming a new sub?

                  Comment

                  • bigdave
                    Junior Member
                    • Feb 2003
                    • 3596

                    #24
                    You want to try and

                    You want to try and place the cylinder so the bladder is as close to center of the boat (front to back) as you can while still having the cylinder fit. You don't want the sub to bank in a turn you will loose rudder efficacy. You want to ballast the sub with the bag empty at the point where the boat just wants to submerge. As for turning the Seawolf model like the real boat does not turn well. I use a cheater rudder on my boat. It clips on the lower rudder when it is in the water and it turns fine. Without it the boat will turn someday Maybe!! Ha!! BD.
                    sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
                    "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

                    Comment

                    • landlubber
                      Junior Member
                      • Nov 2004
                      • 60

                      #25
                      Excellant work Dan ,a well

                      Excellant work Dan ,a well engineered build. Say Dave I must has missed something,how are you using the APC 4 to perform a sub safe function. Most receivers have a failsafe setting ,but I didn"t know it could be done with the APC4????? Thanks Kent

                      Comment

                      • bigdave
                        Junior Member
                        • Feb 2003
                        • 3596

                        #26
                        SHIP!!!! http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_evil.gif You are right!!

                        SHIP!!!! You are right!! dammit!! Sorry Dan, I use a SES-3 in my subs to control the ballast system instead of the schrader and servo. I was thinking of the SES-3, which has a MPD inside of it. Not the APC-4! What a dummy I am!! You will need a stand alone MPD if you want a fail safe in the Seawolf. Sorry, I think I need some time off!! BD.
                        sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
                        "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

                        Comment

                        • danl
                          Junior Member
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 39

                          #27
                          Thanks for all the quick

                          Thanks for all the quick answers!!!! Really helps me.

                          Dave,
                          Yeah, I talked to Mike. He sent me the SubSafe with the APC4 - should get the stuff by the weekend. He's great - really talked me thru all the component selection. Matter of fact, everyone has been great and you all seem to know each other!

                          Can't wait to finish to the point of a test in the hot-tub...

                          This is a very good first sub build experience, but I've used every modeling, electronics, mechanical and shop skill I have. Used lathe, drill press, Dremel - you name the tool. This is not for a beginner or for a limited budget. Seems that other than a plastic hull, this is all pretty robust, high quality sub "guts".

                          Thanks again.

                          Comment

                          • anonymous

                            #28
                            If this is your first

                            If this is your first boat I can only imagine how bright the future is for you and the projects that will follow.

                            Just excellent craftsmanship!

                            Steve

                            Comment

                            • bigdave
                              Junior Member
                              • Feb 2003
                              • 3596

                              #29
                              I have always said the

                              I have always said the only thing that is cheap about building the smaller plastic models into functional submarines is the kit itself. The same electronics or actually smaller more expensive equipment has to be sometimes used. I am glad Mike got you all set. Sorry about the mix up! BD.
                              sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
                              "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

                              Comment

                              • tmsmalley
                                SubCommittee Member
                                • Feb 2003
                                • 2376

                                #30
                                Your work is excellent Dan.

                                Your work is excellent Dan. So nice to see.

                                Steve
                                This is Dan's first sub, but you should see his surface stuff. Dan is the commodore of the Twin Cities area Edina Model Yacht Club and does incredible work - both with the innards and the detailing.

                                For example, Dan took an inexpensive ($70) beginners Vac-U-Tug kit and turned it into a thing of beauty including his own design of high-output smoke generator! He has also done some great barges.

                                Now I have him obsessing about RC subs and he's a brand new member of the SubCommittee (Ba wah ha ha!)

                                Comment

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