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Problem with motors wiring and power supply - Help
Are you wiring the main motor via the TAE(S) board? Try connecting the power to the esc for the main drive motor directly to the battery, by passing the TAE board. Have you fitted supression capacitors to the motor?
Are you wiring the main motor via the TAE(S) board? Try connecting the power to the esc for the main drive motor directly to the battery, by passing the TAE board. Have you fitted supression capacitors to the motor?
Hello Trafalgar,
thank you for replay.
I have wires from battery divided, one branch goes to TAES (and pistons motors) and one to ESC and motor, so I can say that I have already bypassed TAES. And yes, I fitted regular three suppression capacitators on all of the motors in question. Now, I think the capacitators are not the same branch, but should be the same size - does it matter?
Please, any more suggestion are really welcomed.
Libor
May be the the voltage is dropping when you switch on the piston tanks, and the ESC switches off or goes into safe mode because of under voltage. What ESC are you using? I am sure that if you connect the battery direct to the Main motor without the ESC it will work fine even when you operate the pistons. Sounds like an ESC/ battery problem.
or, if possible, try to up the voltage to 7.2 by adding more cells
to the battery.
you will need to verify that the batteries can give the
3 amps required.
so, if you have a multimeter, measure the voltage while
re-creating the problem. if the voltage dips lower than 4.8 volts when your tank motor(s) switch on, you might want to buy
batteries which can deliver more amps. the dipping voltage is a sign that the motors want more amps than the batteries can supply. this is called the ïnternal resistance of the battery.
You want the voltage above 4.8 (say 5 to be safe) because
otherwise your receiver (which is on BEC) will no longer have
power. the BEC can only supply (about) 5 volts to the receiver
if the voltage from the batteries is *more* than 5 volts. 4.8 is the absolute minimum in that respect.
hope this helps.
with this, please remember that the piston tank motors start
with high friction, if fact a stalled situation. A stalled motor
draws MUCH more amps while starting up, than while it is
geared up.
So, yet another possibility is to find tank motors which have better performance at low revs (more torque). as I understand,
the more "spokes" there are in the motor, the better.
Unfortunately, for both batteries and motors, quality will cost ya...
Thank you very much for your explanation of my problem.
When I was measuring A consumption I noted that at the beginning of the piston motors movement they take 5-6 A for 1-2 seconds. Then lower to cca 3,5A.
I will probably change my battery type. Anyway I have this D type with cca 9000 mAh and it is difficult for me to charge them fully. None of my chargers support this capacity and safety switches switch charging process before the batteries are fully charged.
Will solve my problem to make 5 packs of 5 AA type 2100 mAh batteries connected parallel which shall give me 6V and cca 10000 mAh? I will charge each pack separately. In the sub there is enough place for this battery replacement.
I do not use BEC, the RX is powered sepparately from this two paralelly set 4 batt packs.
AA Cells won't supply the amps you require. Even if your original batteries were 50% charged they should work if the batteries are in good condition, Try charging them with a different charger or put in on trickle charge for a couple of days. Why don't you try a 7.2v stick pack if you have one handy to help diagnose the problem?
[color=#000000]I agree with Trafalgar, do NOT change to AA batteries.
instead, measure the voltage when operating the tank motors
(since you measured the Amps, I guess you know how to do that
and you have probably the equipment for it).
Trickle charging will cause no harm, if the loader switches off,
just re-enable and continue charging.
i looked up the data sheet of your battery ]here it is[/url]
it says internal resistance is about 6 milli Ohms.
and here is an article about internal resistance and what it does
to your voltages ]interesting article[/url]
now, from this we can do the following math according to
the article ]
Thank you for your advices again. Will save me some money.
Yes I have digital multimeter (though cheap one). I will apply your advice tonight and I will let you know if succeeded.
Libor
Mentioned multimeter]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/PICT4948.JPG[/img]
Reading this thread makes me wonder about the problem I'm having with my ESC. Can anyone tell me how many turns a Graupner Speed 400 motor has? I have a feeling the ESC I have rated for motors of 20 + turns may not be a good match.
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