Installing etched brass parts in hull

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  • subcom117
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2006
    • 3

    #1

    Installing etched brass parts in hull

    I am building a 1/72 Revell Type VIIC and will be installing the etched brass free flood hull hole parts from modelbrass. The basics are, obviously, cut a hole the shape of the part and glue it in. But, the part needs to sit flush with the exterior of the hull.

    Not wanting to reinvent the wheel, I want to solicit from those who have already done this any tips and tricks as to how to easily secure the brass part flush with the hull.

    Also, as the deck is thinner than the supplied plastic deck, it will have to be shimmed to sit flush with the hull. What effective techniques have been used to do this? Simply glue along the edge the proper thickness of Plastruc strips?

    Tim
  • tabledancer
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2005
    • 573

    #2
    First of all,do you plan

    First of all,do you plan on r/cing this boat.If you plan on this my sugestion is DO NOT USE THE BRASS DECK,it is a giant pain in the _ _ _ to do this conversion.The reason for this is the brass deck is to flimsly to be removing for maintance all the time.The flood grates can be installed by adding a lip on the inside of the hull made from Plastruct,then buildup the inside of the lip with more thin Plastruct till you can set the flood grate to the proper thickness.Then use some putty to smooth the whole thing over,I use "Tamiya Basic Type".This putty works real well and doesn`t shrink when setting up.If you must use the brass deck,set it rite down into the groove or edge,do not shim it up level with the edge.Setting it into the groove will help to hold it in as your boat glides through the water .Because it will come off unless you secure it
    TD

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    • JWLaRue
      Managing Editor, SubCommittee Report
      • Aug 1994
      • 4281

      #3
      ...and if you do use

      ...and if you do use the brass deck, then you actually do not want it to be flush with the sides of the hull casing. There is a small 'lip' that sticks up on the real Type VII's...meaning that the deck is slightly recessed. Judging from the photos, it looks like this lip is about 3-5cm in height. On the Revell model I'd suggest making it about 1/32nd of an inch......

      -hope this helps,

      Jeff
      Rohr 1.....Los!

      Comment

      • wolfsong
        Junior Member
        • Jan 2005
        • 189

        #4
        i just got done doing

        i just got done doing the brass inserts.
        i bent the brass to lay flat on the hull. then i traced the outside . i cut with my dremmel the inner part a little smaller then the actual brass part. i used then several different dremmel bits and shaved the remaing lip down far enough to bring the brass flat.it actually did not took too long to do. after i got the brass layde and glued in, i used acrylic finnishing puddy to hide the seem.
        as for the deck.. i just took my original deck, samdet it smooth and a little thinner and glued the brass on top of it...
        i think it looks good... but thats just me

        hope that helps
        stefan

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        • subcom117
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2006
          • 3

          #5
          Thanks, guys, for the ideas.

          Thanks, guys, for the ideas. That's very much like what I was already considering. Nice to know what other's have done.

          Comment

          • magpie
            Junior Member
            • Apr 2006
            • 37

            #6
            Hi
            Just a tit bit on

            Hi
            Just a tit bit on my brass decks re holding them on- I use tailors elastic with hooks and attach it to suitable places in the lower hull of my #7 U-boat. It has wire hooks on the top (deck) end that hook through loops made from SS split pins. This holds the deck in place and only requires a light pull up to access hardware for adjustments etc or you can unclip them to remove it. On places where there's not much vertical room for the elastic to stretch enough due to the WTC or the trim foam etc, I attach the bitter end to the deck and run it along under the formers and back up to the above mentioned loop. This gives it a better stretch to stay tight. Here's a pic of the bow attachment to the deck. The top of the split pin is barely visible from above and hidden easily with a dab of paint. http://www.magpieyachts.com/images/U...deckattach.jpg
            Jason :O

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