Newbie Subs - A little modeling, but not too much

[wintermute]

Hi everyone.

I stumbled upon the rc submarine world the other week and I've been scouring the web for info ever since. I was wondering if you could help me decide on a sub. Not that I can afford one right now, but something to aspire to. I have some modeling and rc experience, but not too much. It seems like, aside from the pool toys, everyone seems to like the subtech, swm, and thor design subs best for newbies (have I forgotten any others)? Which of these work pretty well (maneuverability-wise) in a typical backyard in-ground pool? Thanks for the help!

[liftmys10]

I have the subtech Albacore

I have the subtech Albacore which i can paly around in the pool, so thats a good one to look at. Its fairly easy to build, it took me a very long timeto build it but i made sure i did it right and it was my very first sub. Im sure one can build the Albacore in about a couple of weeks.

More Albacore Pictures

[wintermute]

Thanks! I've actually seen pictures

Thanks! I've actually seen pictures of your sub while tooling around the board and I hope I can make one as gorgeous as yours. I noticed in another post that you used a Krylon Camoflague series ultra flat black. In the photo it looks like you did some weathering. How did you do the weathering, or is that just how the paint reflects (or doesn't reflect) light? Thanks for the help (and inspiration)!

[liftmys10]

The actual camo. paint makes

The actual camo. paint makes it look like its been weathered, so i cant take credit for that It also doesn't reflect light. Its VERY flat black. I was told to use some slight clearcoat to make it not look so flat (because steel does shine a little) The THOR Permit is also a good beginner sub and looks freakin sweet!

[wintermute]

Thanks for the info. I

Thanks for the info. I was reading the board and it seems like some people have been experiencing a 4-foot "crush depth" for the Albacore. Have you noticed this?

[liftmys10]

Yes i have noticed it

Yes i have noticed it and i personally wouldnt take my Albacore lower than 5ft. Maybe it's just the way i built it but i'm sure there are quite a few albacores that have gone as deep as 12ft. I think it all just depends on how clean and smooth you build the WTC, and also how fresh the gasket/seal is. I was disappointed because i wanted to go to the bottom of my pool and not worry about water leaking in. Now i have to keep an eye out so that i wont pass the 5ft depth mark... Anything above 5ft is bone dry in the WTC. I've tested the WTC countless times when it didnt have electronics in yet.

[mike dory]

If your looking for a

If your looking for a fiberglass boat in the same price range that is even easier to build. You might look at Small world models, USS Blueback in 1/96 scale it's a low pressure gas ballast system boat. You can see reviews, as well as some great photo's of the boat on Tim Smalleys R.C. Subs web site. see the vendor's page here on the sub committee site. Best Wishes Mike Dory

[novagator]

small world models makes great

small world models makes great subs with little modeling required.

[wintermute]

Thanks for the help everyone.

Thanks for the help everyone. The ThorDesign boats seem pretty cool too...but they seem to be a little too big for a pool (although the Albacore seems the same but turns on a dime). The Akula II from ScaleShips (on the vendors page) looks pretty darn cool, but I'd be afraid of ordering something from Russia (or it's associated republics) - the land of identity theft (no offense Vladimir).

[chuck chesney]

Just my two cents worth,

Just my two cents worth, but I'd stick with the U.S. designs. If your just starting out, it lowers the worry level quite a bit if you can contact the manufaturer or distributor, and he's in the U.S. The exception regarding U.S. manufacturers is the SubTech line, which is now owned by Panden of the U.K. , but their U.S. distributor is Mike's Subworks of New York.

I've seen a couple of Albacores and one Marlin...great models for the money, and I've never heard anything but good about the Small World models.

I've been running subs for almost thirty years, and wouldn't get too hung up about the need for great diving depth. The SubTech boats are depth limited to around five feet I believe, but in a lake or pond, five feet is plenty (also in a pool). I usually run my boats at around 2-3 feet, because the deeper you go the more potential radio and mechanical problems your going to run into. Also, in just about anything but a crystal clear swimming pool, once the boat is under water, the illusion is complete...it ain't there anymore.

Good luck, and stay tuned to this website...it's the best source of good information by a mile.

[anonymous]

No more than 5' and

No more than 5' and it leaks, doesn't sound too good to me IMHO!

How deep does it dive? All the way to the bottom is the old joke! So you need to always use the sub in water less than 5' which would also rule out a lot of swimming pools.

Maybe I'm wobbly on the controls but I could never guarantee not to do the odd "deep excursion".

I would have thought 20' is a better figure to design and test on.

David

[chuck chesney]

An answer to the depth

An answer to the depth control issue is the ADC (Automatic Depth Control) units sold by SubTech. They work, and are rock steady, as well as being small and inexpensive. Cheap insurance, and a very good alternative to standing around trying to figure out why the seals failed, or the radio control was lost during a "deep excursion".

Nothing worse than "diving for dollars", trying to recover an expensive model boat that went "all the way to the bottom" on it's last dive. Water damage to electronics, or the total loss of a boat, is an expensive price to pay for trying to run a model boat as if it were a professional ROV that cost as much as a new house.

[anonymous]

Hi Chuck,

Your faith in ADC

Hi Chuck,

Your faith in ADC (and Subtech) is impressive but I would humbly suggest that things do go wrong in submarines (model and full size.)

This thread is really about a choice of beginners model and I'm sure that they will all work fine but if it is REALLY true that one leaks below 5' then it is about as much use as a chocolate tea pot!

BTW there are also several reliable suppliers from the UK and Germany.

David

[liftmys10]

No more than 5' and

No more than 5' and it leaks, doesn't sound too good to me IMHO!

How deep does it dive? All the way to the bottom is the old joke! So you need to always use the sub in water less than 5' which would also rule out a lot of swimming pools.

Maybe I'm wobbly on the controls but I could never guarantee not to do the odd "deep excursion".

I would have thought 20' is a better figure to design and test on.

David

David,
I have tried everything that you can think of (even creating vacuum in the WTC to see where it leaks) and final conclusion was that after 5 ft. deep, the pressure is too great for the Subtech WTC. I am certain that other WTC's can hold up to greater amount of pressure but it is apparent that mine doesn't.



Edited By liftmys10 on 1145550439

[chuck chesney]

Hi David,
You are exactly correct...things

Hi David,
You are exactly correct...things DO go wrong in any mechanical system...I flew jet aircraft for many years, and the saying that comes to mind is "There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are NO old, bold pilots". Same holds true for model submarines.

My primary sub is a highly modified Engels Patrick Henry, which now has a wet hull, RCABS system and a 3" Lexan WTC, and could probably fuction well at 20 feet all day long.

The point is, that for a fellow who is just getting into the model sub world, with it's related expense and effort, to err on the side of caution is a good way to go. I still believe that a modest dive depth is going to provide the same thrill as being able to dive to 20 feet (when the sub is down deep, how can you really see what's going on with your boat, anyway?).

There are, indeed, very good model sub suppliers in the U.K and the rest of Europe (I bought my Engels boat in Frankfurt), but am an advocate of SubTech (now British owned) because they are readily available in the U.S. and are inexpensive and reliable.