Periscopes - Lets get them working!!!

[paul von braun]

Hello all,
I would like to make this thread about 'how to make a working periscope' with my experiences and also the experiences of all you people out there in the wider world.

So, this is the description of how I want to go about things]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]



Paul von Braun.

[jutland67]

Hi Paul, in fact that

Hi Paul, in fact that system you described is exactly what I am putting into my Trafalgar class I am building. I have a system working and I have to admit that I did not build it myself, my good friend Tony put it together for me and it works fantastic. Tony did not use micro-switches at either end of the periscope travel..instead the system relies on an O-ring which turns the threaded rod, and thus act as a slipping clutch....and the knowledge that I mustn't let the periscopes travel full distance if I can help it. I have thewiring coming into my WTC ( an OTW Designs system) and then to a double micro-switch with cam for up and down movement. The system works great although it hasnt yet been tested underwater. I have filled the empty spaces of the small servo that runs the system with silicone grease..time will tell if the servo will survive immersion for very long....but they are relatively cheap servos so it shouldnt be too much of a train-smash if it rusts !As soon as I work out how to post a pic here I will send some photos.

[anonymous]

Hi Paul, Engel make the

Hi Paul, Engel make the system you describe for their working scopes with microswites for the limits. If you don't want to make your own, you can get one of their scope upgrade kits and adapt it to your boat. the one for the Type 206 is in 1/32 scale as well.

[anonymous]

Oh, if you PM me

Oh, if you PM me your email address, I'll send you the Engel wiring diagram.

[paul von braun]

It says that I cannot

It says that I cannot use the pm feature of this board!
Thus my email is 1499140@bournemouth.ac.uk

Thanks v. muchly!

Paul.

[paul von braun]

Oh, what does everyone think

Oh, what does everyone think about removing the potentimeter to make a hight torque yet still two way (directionally speaking) motor?

Paul.

[anonymous]

It says that I cannot

It says that I cannot use the pm feature of this board!
Thus my email is 1499140@bournemouth.ac.uk

Thanks v. muchly!

Paul.

Sent

[raalst]

well, I, for one, trust

well, I, for one, trust it.

have a look at
this picture of my converted servo

I intend to use it in a trumpeter Kilo, a small sub.

only worry is that the nylon will wear out. I could not find
a metal geared one which could be converted this way.

[paul von braun]

Cheers Ron,
now that we have

Cheers Ron,
now that we have that matter sorted (ie that it is actually a viable proposition)...

...How do we go about it?


Paul.

[himszy]

*sigh* I thought you were

*sigh* I thought you were going to teach us!

I believe the 'Engel method' was mentioned....

Michael

[paul von braun]

Well, I have found the

Well, I have found the ferfect way of modifying my futaba S3003 servo]Futaba S3003 to continuous rotary motion[/url]

A very good and straightforward guide I think.

Himzy, a link just for you mate...

Large scale submarine models page

Thanks all for your help thus far

Paul.

[himszy]

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_question.gif http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_question.gif


Michael

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_question.gif[/img]


Michael

[himszy]

With that modification of the

[color=#FF0000]With that modification of the servo, it would also allow you to raise them at a scale speed if so desired. All you really need to do is modify the piston tank method. However they use piston controllers to move the motor (even non-proportional ones have to have some form of switching circuit). One problem I can see is that by removing the pot's functionality, you lose the servos feedback system (and the 'switching system') and so you have to develop your own.

Here is one way of setting up the hardware]http://www.mhims.co.uk/images2/IMGP0698.JPG[/img]
What isn't shown]

[paul von braun]

Hey Michael,
I know you were

Hey Michael,
I know you were not 'having a go' but sometimes you just invite it...

Now, I am thinking that by using the method in the link I posted that I will lose the proportionality function of the servo - It will still have a 'neutral' position in the middle as that is where the pot will be set. This loss of function is of no consequence as all I require is that the servo rotates continuously in both directions (I have tested this much all ready).

The next problem to solve is the 'stops' at either end of the periscope's travel.
This requires the use of the two micro switches.
The circuit diagrams sent to me (engel method) are okay if you have their circuit (or so it would appear).
If you dont have their circuit.... advice on the wiring would be much appreciated.

Thanks everyone thus far,



Paul.

[anonymous]

The Engel circuit I sent

The Engel circuit I sent is composed of 2 relays, 2 diodes, and 2 micoswitches. Engel just provide a small PCB for you to solder the relays and diodes to, to keep thing looking neat. If you have something like a Robbe swicther you don't even need the relays and diodes really, as the system draws less than 1 amp and the switcher should be able to supply that direct at 6v.