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This is a retrofit motor installation on the Kilo WTC kit that I manufacture. Not being able to acquire the Mini-Maxon motor any more, I had to come up with an alternative.
I was successfully able to install a Speed 280 motor, but it was a very tight fit and there was no room for error in the installation. It was also way to powerful and drew do much current to get any run time. I was lucky if I got 10-15 minutes. That is compared to the 2-3 HR I got with the Maxon. But for those 10-15 minutes it was an underwater cruse missile.
On the other hand the Maxon although being very efficient was never a speed demon. What I have come up with is a best of both worlds kind of thing. You are able to get about a 1 HR run time and still have power to hall-### if you so desire.
This installation uses a GWS motor gearbox like the one used in my Type V11c conversion. There are actually two different motors that can be installed in the same gearbox. The smaller one gives good speed, and the larger one gives Warp-Speed! The installation is the same for both, and they can be changed back and forth very easily.
RXC Light Power System (GW/LPS-RXC-CS) This is the higher power.
B2C Light Power System (GW/LPS-B2C-CS) This is the lower power.
The gearbox main shaft will have to be modified to 1/8†OD to work with the Subtech output seal.
This is an easy job done with K&S brass tubing with an OD of 1/8†and an ID of 1/16â€. The tubing is drilled out with a 2 MM drill and slid over the output shaft and cemented with medium CA.
The main shaft has to exit the center of the end cap so a 1/8†hole is drilled dead center. Now you can install the main shaft into the 1/8†hole and mark out for the gearbox mounting holes.
You will see the two bottom holes are to close to the main o-ring seal to drill and tap these holes. You will have to make and install an adapter to lift the gearbox up approximately ¼†so the holes can be drilled and tapped.
I just cut this out of scrap plastic in a crescent shape and glued it to the end cap. I then drilled and tapped my four mounting holes for 2/56†screws. The two top screws use K&S tubing standoffs cut to the thickness of the plastic crescent shaped adapter.
All that is left to do is open up the 1/8†hole to ¼†for the Subtech seal then countersink the outside of the cap 1/2†down to 1/4†depth. This sets the seal closer to the gearbox so the main shaft will have enough length to pass through and be able to mount the u-joint.
The servo output seals are added to the end cap on either side of the main shaft output. This simple text and the photos should be enough for you to complete the instillation, but if you have questions email me.
I am placing the one photo in the this posting but there are more in my member homepage. Dave.
Edited By Bigdave on 1135884168
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