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I would like to build functional fore and aft trim tanks (just like in the the real boats) in my Type XXVI W model. The tanks would be connected and water pumped between the two tanks to adjust the horizontal angle of the boat. Has anyone tried this in a model with success? If so, I would be grateful for any tips or tricks. Thanks. Steve.
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If I remember correctly, one
[color=#000080]If I remember correctly, one member had come up with the following setup with decent success]The Nautilus Drydocks - Exceptional Products for the World of R/C Submarines - www.nautilusdrydocks.com -
...moved to the R/C Modeler
...moved to the R/C Modeler forum for better visibility....
-JeffRohr 1.....Los!Comment
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In the model that I'm
In the model that I'm currently building I have the main battery mounted on the side rails just below the ballast tank. The battery is moveable fore and aft to adjust pitch. To clarify, the pitch is adjustable while the sub is still in the water. I do not have this function slaved to the sternplanes but rather to a dedicated function. I don't use an APC.Comment
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I did this in 2
I did this in 2 large boats for a friend about 10-12 years ago. It does work (sorry, U-178) but I personally don't think it's a good idea. If a boat is properly trimmed from the get go, then it's not necessary. keep in mind that the weight of a nickel on either the bow or stern is enough to knock a boat out of trim. Now imagine if, with the boat properly trimmed while the nickel is on the stern, you move the nickel to the bow. And you want to pump water back and forth?
Trim the boat properly right at the very beginning and save the effort for some area that might really need it.
Skip AsayComment
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Hello Skip,
I do not agree
Hello Skip,
I do not agree 100% in your statement. It depends from boat to boat. I build my Ohio class with one 2 litre piston tank used with the Rieger/Mayer control board. From location to location I find different conditions. The water shift in the boat, when I flood my tank until the sail nearly submerges. So I never find the best trim.
For bigger boats it’s absolutely necessary to use a trim system. You have to flood completely, because to prevent the water to swap in the main ballast tank. And then you can trim with you two trim tanks exactly.
And of course if really ease to change something on the boat. No more trimming is necessary. But as I say, it depends from boat to boat if this is necessary.Comment
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Edited By Gotland on 1141078650
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Edited By Gotland on 1141078650Comment
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Lothar, Cristal clear explanation... you
Lothar, Cristal clear explanation... you guys are cutting edge!
Cheers,
GuillermoComment
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Gentlemen, thank you for all
Gentlemen, thank you for all your input(s)! This is the first time I've used this message board and I appreciate the very helpful responses.
A few details on my boat may may be helpful for further discussion;
My model is just under 6 feet long (Type XXVI W, 1/32 scale) and will have 10 functional torpedoes (Propel powered as per Mike Dory's design) thus needing a trim system to compensate for changes in weight distribution as the torpedoes are spent. My planned ballast system will be Art Broder's RCABS which I read about in the "Report" and discussed with Art at the Regatta in Carmel this summer. I plan to use a 12 volt gel SLA battery for power positioned just ahead of a scratch 3.5" WTC.
I may be able to put the SLA battery on rails but given it's position forward its movement may not give me the trim sensitivity I need...I'll have to try it. I'm leaning more and more toward the tanks fore and aft......I too like the engineering challenge.....if I'm on the right track to start with.
Any additional comments would be appreciated.
Many thanks Gents. P.S. I agree this is a great topic for discussion....particularly when I personally need all the help I can get on it.
Steve WComment
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Hello Lothar (Gotland) - It
Hello Lothar (Gotland) - It has been too long since we have communicated.
"it's for me a question of how much fun I have with engineering. (I love it and would do it too)"
Lothar, right there is the big difference. And that's what sets you and most of your German buddies apart from the overwhelming majority of sub builders on this side of the big water. I'm afraid that if Dave Merriman had not introduced the "WTC" concept, there would be quite a few less successful "bubbleheads" here in North America. I'm not putting anyone down but reality bites.
I can only speak from my own experience but I can say that a 10 foot fleet boat and an 8 foot Type XXI DON'T require a separate trim system. Both of those boats have such a system but it usually causes more problems than it fixes. IF the proper amount of time and effort is spent doing the initial trimming, then fore and aft trim will essentially remain unchanged. True, water density variation will still occur from pond to pond, but nothing that can't be fixed easily and quickly on site. I'll admit that dropping a nickel or 2 in the sail is not as elegant as what you guys do but success is success, no matter how it is achieved.
BTW - my example with the nickel in my original post was only to show the small amount of weight needed to knock a boat out of trim. A nickel doesn’t weigh much. It isn’t worth much anymore, either!
Something else to keep in mind. I have, both personally and through SubTech, concentrated my efforts toward helping the newcomer get going. This means a healthy dose of the KISS Principle. Systems such as you build are way above the average builder....they would be virtual death to a newcomer.
Skip Asay
PS - Now that I no longer have the business, I have several projects I want to complete that are not at all “newbie†friendly but I think you will enjoy them. It's time to start building FOR ME.Comment
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Hi Skip!
All you say is
Hi Skip!
All you say is true Skip. Pleased your projects (dreams) are in the works now too. You earned it Mein Kapitän!
Steve Reichmuth
Edited By Dolphin on 1130988118Comment
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Hello Skip,
sure, there is a
Hello Skip,
sure, there is a big difference between conventionally WTS technic and ours. Its true that Gotlands level of submarinemodelling is to difficult for a beginner. It shows only the possibility which is feasible. i can't believe that you are lucky with a 10 feet sub with a separate trimsystem.
You said "True, water density variation will still occur from pond to pond, but nothing that can't be fixed easily and quickly on site" but in which way. You must open the boat if you must change your weights . We do that with our Fore and Aft Trim Tanks over RC and if you trim still again, we have already the first Accu empty.
You see, many ways lead to Rome. However, finally the result counts. and btw, lothar is my Admiral
Kind regards
DirkComment
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sorry, there is a mistake
sorry, there is a mistake in my last posting.
"i can't believe that you are lucky with a 10 feet sub with a separate trimsystem." It must mean
i can't believe that you are lucky with a 10 feet sub without a separate trimsystem."
Regards
DirkComment
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Edited By Gotland on 1141078687
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Edited By Gotland on 1141078687Comment
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