I need more help - Engel sound module

[silent hunter]

Somebody out there is using one of Engle's sound modules. Is there an easy way to make this thing work? Thanks

[anonymous]

Hi Richard]

[color=#000000]Hi Richard]

[silent hunter]

Hi Ed! I'm using the

Hi Ed! I'm using the Robbe F-14 Navy. I have both a multiswitch 16 module w/decoder and also a multiprop 8 mdule w/decoder. I'm just not sure how to achieve the various switching requirements to be able to utilize the various sound effects available, and do it "on the fly". However now I have another problem. Look like I've screwed up the programming of the unit, and am going to have to replace it with a new one. Am planning to order up the new one tomorrow so I should have a replacement in hand soon.
Thanks for taking an interest in hepling me out.
Richard

[anonymous]

Hi Richard]

[color=#00FFFF]Hi Richard]

[anonymous]

No idea what I did

No idea what I did to change the font color. Sorry

[silent hunter]

Thanks Ed. I will keep

Thanks Ed. I will keep playing with it. I knew about the 2 grounds and the center "hot" pin. I appreciate your input.

[tmsmalley]

Hi Ed -
A few other

Hi Ed -
A few other folks have gotten tripped up by the font color problem so I am going to post the "fix" here and then in the forum tips area as well -

To change your font color
Select "YOUR CONTROL PANEL" (in the upper left corner of your screen, just under "Welcome John Doe")

Select "EDIT YOUR PROFILE"

Select "PERSONAL INFO"

Then - at the bottom of the PERSONAL INFO screen you will see "Post Color". There is a tab where you can select what color you want your font to be.

Hope this helps!
Tim Smalley



Edited By TMSmalley on 1049206183

[ramius-ii]

Ready when you are Richard!


Ready when you are Richard!
I received my module and understand how it is supposed to work. To have full access to all 16 sounds, you will need 4 switches. 2 on/off type and 2 on/off/on type.

The 2 on/off types are used to address the sound module in "binary" so you have (Sw= Switch) sw #1 on/off and sw #2 on/off. If sw #1 and sw #2 are off, you get the sounds from "bank-1". If sw #1 is off and sw #2 is on, you get the sounds from "bank-2". If sw #1 is on and sw #2 is off, you get "bank-3" and if sw #1 and sw #2 are both on you get "bank-4" Keep in mind there are no colored wires connected to the bank selection, nor any wires at all!

The next two on/center off/on type switches are used to select the individual sound within a bank. You could take and set up a pattern that is easy for you to follow such as sw #3 up is the first sound in a bank, sw #4 up is the second sound within a bank, sw #3 down is the third and sw #4 down is the fourth.

I will know a little more after this weekend and I thought I'd at least let you know I hadn't forgotten.

Take Care, Ed

[silent hunter]

Thanks Ed. I finally got

Thanks Ed. I finally got my replacement from Engel. Took some time, and a few emails to them, with NO replies. Then suddenly it as well as some other parts I had ordered previously all showed up. A bit strange, but I was grateful to get them. Now on to trying to make this thing work! I have studied the diagram carefully that came with the module. You're exactly right about the needed switches. My BIG challenge is to make thes switches all operate via R/C. Ive tried using a Robbe Multiswtch 16 expansion module connected directly to the sound module, and it does work, but only for one function. I am going to try using some small switching relays I found for sasle on the Internet. They look to be almost identical to the much more expensive Robbe Duo-Switch. Just not set up with a servo lead.

Here's the URL if you are interested. http://www.smarthome.com/7277.html

Sooooo. Once I get these, I'm pretty sure I'll be able to control ALL 16 functions via the Multiswitch decoder.

[ramius-ii]

Sounds Great Richard.

Something

Sounds Great Richard.

Something you might consider in the future for project that do not require switching a lot of power and that is using an "Optical Isolator" such as an NTE3086. Basically it is an LED and a transistor in one package. In the case of the 3086 it's actually two seperate devices in an 8-pin I.C. The Anode goes to +5-6 Volts and the Cathode ( referred to as cathode with a "K" ) goes to "ground" through a 150 ohm resistor! When the LED lights (you can't see it but it does) the transistor conducts just like a switch from the Collector (now you know why they spell cathode with a K) to the emitter. So in the sound module appilcation, the Colletor of each sound module input goes to the collector and the emitter goes to the "common".

I tend to stay away from designing with relays, first they take up a lot of room and you also must to remember to add a diode across the coil to prevent back EMF from destroying components. The other advantage to the Opto is that there is no physical connection to the two circuits thus both circuits are completely isolated!

What you picked is really a nice device for many applications. It's good to know about. Thanks.

Best Regards, Ed

[silent hunter]

Now this is REALLY getting

Now this is REALLY getting my interest! Iv'e never even heard of the device you're talking about, but I'd sure like to know more. Like just how to use it and where to obtain it. You're so right about the relays taking up space. Yes they are nice units. But I'm not saying it's written in stone that I have to use them. I'm open to suggestions, and appreciate any guidance you can send my way. Ed, are you going to use the optical isolator for controlling the sound module? Sounds way cool to me!