rescribing on epoxy hulls

[silent runner]

I just received my Thordesign Permit hull. For some reason, the molded in lines are very faint from about 2/3 back on the hull to nonexisitent at the stern. Although, visually, you can see a faint mark, they are quite a bit shallower than forward on the hull. Any idea how to rescribe without doing excessive damage? I am used to scribing lines in plastic as the tool I use actually removes material. I would like to rescribe the lines prior to sanding/cleaning the hull as once I do this, I am certain the lines will be gone.

[boatbuilder1]

well here is what I

well here is what I would do. using a sharp scribing tool and a semi blunt scribe tool
slowly and carefully start with the sharp scribe with little pressure then keep going over it with more pressure until you are satisfied once done sand with 400 paper then use the blunt scribe to chase out the dust from the lines you just spent a week on.
you will probably need to make some scribe guides to help you stay on course. I use labeling tape the kind that is used in the embossin guns like when we were much younger I get a 4 pack of black but you could use any color I find mine at walmart for under 3 bucks

hope this helps

[silent runner]

Thanks, the guide was a

Thanks, the guide was a thought of course, just have never tried scribing epoxy. I can practice on some fiberglass sheet I have, see if the scribing tools I have will work, I know they will work with plastic/resin 'cuz that's what I bought them for. I'll let you know the results.

[Scale Shipyard / WLU]

Did you get this hull

Did you get this hull direct from Thor / Atomic Subs...or was it something you bought second hand?

This does not sound like something that they would send out in this kind of condition.

As far as going over the scribing, use the tools that were described above and use guides or templates at all times, trying to freehand this can add a lot of hours of puddy work.

W.L. Upshaw

[thordesign]

Those scribe lines are SUPPOSED

Those scribe lines are SUPPOSED to be faint. When you hit it with primer they will jump out at you. It is not necessary to rescribe them. You will detroy the scale fidelity of the boat if you attempt this. This is not a manufacturing or quality problem as suggested above. We try and represent the detail in the correct scale along with the other features of the boat. When the boat is primed and painted they will be correct.

[JWLaRue]

Well, however unlikely, there *could*

[color=#000000]Well, however unlikely, there *could* be a problem with some of the scribing, but without hard specifics, everyone is really just speculating! Matt is correct in stating that the scribing on his hulls can look 'faint' in that they aren't really deep....and as long as the paint is not applied too thick, the resultant model looks great!

Since you mentioned that you are only seeing this condition on the aft 2/3rds of the hull, then here's one thing to consider]

[silent runner]

Lets, start again.
This is a

Lets, start again.
This is a new hull, Erv sent the hull and I am waiting for the fittings, plan sheet, WTC and electronics.
The hull has been washed/cleaned thoroughly inside and out.
The molded in details that are there are very clear and quite pronounced. Shallow, yes, as they should be.
Measuring from the stern forward, 8 1/2" of detail is non existent on the upper hull. This includes the molded demarcation line to separate the upper hull sections as well as the demarcation dimple for the rudder. Note this is only on the UPPER hull section. The lower is complete from bow to stern. Once I receive the plans, the matter of cutting the stern section and drilling for the rudder is, of course simple.
I am not implying this is 'poor workmanship', just asking advice.

[thordesign]

I just pulled the molds

I just pulled the molds and the pattern. I also examined a 1/2 dozen Permit hulls I just pulled out within the last 2 weeks. There is too much detail in that 8 1/2" for it to simply disappear. Some of it is very pronounced, especially the rudder access hatch and the rudder post indent. There is also a salvage air vent, a MBT recess and a cleat knockout. I cannot explain how the last 8 1/2" is "non-existent". The anti skid demarcation and the water line are basically ghost lines meant to disappear upon painting, so those are very, very light on purpose.

I suggest packing the hull up and sending it straight to me. I really want to see this. I pull every single hull out of the mold myself and check them. If it truly is missing and the hull has not been tampered with, I will replace it immediately. I have layed up literally thousands of epoxy hulls and have never had a reject due to detail not getting picked up in the mold, which is next too impossible being that the detail is still quite fresh and pronounced in the mold. I am using the same basic epoxy I have been using for almost 20 years and have never witnessed anything like this. Something else is going on here and I cannot, at this time, explain it.

[bob the builder]

That last statement from Matt,

That last statement from Matt, if for no other reason, would convince me to buy any new hulls that I get from Thor Design.

I wish more vendors in the world took the same approach to customer service and satisfaction...