anyone have pics of Deboer Skipjack?

[liftmys10]

I really like the way the skipjack looks. Anyone have pictures of the 1/48 scale model? Im thinking of getting one but how much more work is involved compared to the Albacore. What do i need to complete this kit? Will any of my albacore electronics work?

["horridoh"]

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[JWLaRue]

The question posed by the

The question posed by the original poster is a very valid one....and certainly doesn't deserve to be made fun of.

The quick answer as to the difference between the two kits is that it really depends on your modeling skills and interest.

The Albacore kit is one where all of the details have been fully thought out and all of the necessary parts have been included for you. The instructions guide you through the entire process of building and you *will* end up with a fine running boat.

Building a kit like the DeBoer Skipjack essentially requires that the builder do some of the engineering work. Things like how to hold the two hull halves together, how to attach the dive surfaces and connect them to the dive module need to do figured out. Whether this is a (relatively) easy or difficult task is something that needs to be decided by the modeler. Your level of interest in doing this type of engineering work is also going to be a factor.

As a *general* rule of thumb, I would advise that if you are new to the hobby of r/c subs or have not yet started to get together with other like-minded r/c bubbleheads, then the Albacore kit is probably the best place to start.

On the other hand, if you have good experience in model building and in particular the building of r/c boats or planes, then building a kit like the Skipjack as your first r/c sub shouldn't be a difficult thing to do.

As to your question of what you would need to complete the Skipjack kit, from what I have seen of the kit (not recently) you would need to]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_smile.gif[/img]

-hope this helps! (and please feel free to ask more questions)

Jeff

["horridoh"]

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_biggrin.gif

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

[sam reichart]

My "return to the hobby"

My "return to the hobby" sub was the DeBoer Skipjack. Using a D&E Miniatures WTC 3.5, and with a little help in trimming it out (first time I ever used a WTC ballast system) it was a simple boat to get into the water. Plenty of space for linkages in the back, and plenty of battery room.

Accuracy wise- Dennis has had this boat out for quite a while, so the torpedo doors and some other details aren't quite right. But it's a quick build with a little fabrication skills needed, as Jeff suggested, and it ran well. Impressive size in that scale as well.

[liftmys10]

I see, i didnt know

I see, i didnt know all that needs to be done. I saw Deboer kit so i figured some cutting, dremel, and glue ought to do the trick. I had no idea i need to design the ballast tank and linkages. So basicaly its just the hull and nothing else? No wtc or prop shaft, linkages? Thats a little overboard for me. I had a difficult time fixing the kinks out of teh albacore. Any pics of the Deboer skipjack? I still like the way it looks.

["horridoh"]

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[liftmys10]

Thanks all.. I only found

Thanks all.. I only found one person that has pictures of his skipjack. http://www.subron6.com/asp/FleetBoat.asp?id=6

Any others?

[chips]

My first R/C sub model

My first R/C sub model was a Scale Shipyard 1/72 SKIPJACK, that I purchased from Lee at the Toledo show in the 1990's. I got the hull, f/g index strips, plans and resin fittings. I bought a D&E Minatures WTC 3.5. From SubTech I got the APC, Failsafe, BEVR and speed control. From the local hoby shop I purchased plywood (for WTC saddles), fiberglass resin, various brass stock, wheel collars, lead weights, pushrods, and ball connectors. I had to mail order for some brass round stock to turn the prop hub. I scratchbuilt my own prop. After I had everything, it took me about three months, working about an hour a day to get the SKIPJACK operating.

I've been building R/C ships for over 30 years, and in the USCG for 27 years (as a Damage Controlman) so I had all the skills necessary to build the sub. I've been running the SKIPJACK for about 4 years now and am quite satisfied with it. I take a few pictures of my SKIPJACK and either post them here or email them to you.



Edited By chips on 1101624181

[liftmys10]

My first R/C sub model

My first R/C sub model was a Scale Shipyard 1/72 SKIPJACK, that I purchased from Lee at the Toledo show in the 1990's. I got the hull, f/g index strips, plans and resin fittings. I bought a D&E Minatures WTC 3.5. From SubTech I got the APC, Failsafe, BEVR and speed control. From the local hoby shop I purchased plywood (for WTC saddles), fiberglass resin, various brass stock, wheel collars, lead weights, pushrods, and ball connectors. I had to mail order for some brass round stock to turn the prop hub. I scratchbuilt my own prop. After I had everything, it took me about three months, working about an hour a day to get the SKIPJACK operating.

I've been building R/C ships for over 30 years, and in the USCG for 27 years (as Damage Controlman) so I had all the skills necessary to build the sub. I've been running the SKIPJACK for about 4 years now and am quite satisfied with it. I take a few pictures of my SKIPJACK and either post them here or email them to you.

That wil be great. i didnt know another company also makes the skipjack. Ill have to check that out too. I think the skipkack is thenicest looking sub. Thats why im interested.

[JWLaRue]

I too have one of

I too have one of the Scale Shipyard 1/72nd scale Skipjack sub kits. This has been my absolutely most reliable 'runner' of the many subs that I have. I too went the route of using one of the D&E Miniatures WTCs and bought a correctly sized prop from Ships n' Things. Also the usual set of electronics are from SubTech.

The size of this hull is just about perfect...it's a good 'fit across the back seat' sized hull which allows for good detail.

As Chips has mentioned, this was not a difficult kit to build....but I should note that I came into the hobby with some pretty good modeling skills (static and r/c). It took me around 2 months of occasional after-work and weekend hours to build.

-Jeff

[chips]

Here's some pictures of my

Here's some pictures of my SKIPJACK.
Starboard quarter
Starboard bow
Prop
Stern control linkages
WTC saddles
WTC and battery installed

[liftmys10]

Nicee! I like it. Excuse

Nicee! I like it. Excuse my ignorance but is that the black box the battery? Doesnt the water mess it up? And also what are all those gray color blocks?

[britt boyette]

I've build the Deboer Skipjack

I've build the Deboer Skipjack kit and I can tell you it is reasonably complete hull kit. It does take a little more time to built but it does come with the stuff to mount the hull halves plus hardware etc.. That being said, it's not near as a scale boat as is the Scale Shipyard's 1/72 Skipjack. It can be made into a good looking boat and with a D&E 3.5WTC, it shouldn't take too long to get it underway. Just follow the D&E instruction book to the letter and no one gets hurt.
Hours over the test tank, how funny! I use a 6' round inflateable kiddie pool and it works great. I've never needed more than an hour to set one up either. Check out this link to see my USS Snook made from the Deboer kit.

http://graysubs.tripod.com/bboyett....ett.htm

Britt

[chips]

Excuse my ignorance but is

Excuse my ignorance but is that the black box the battery? Doesnt the water mess it up?

The black box is a 12V 5 Amp lead acid gel cell, commonly available at Radio Shack. The water doesn't mess it up because the battery vent holes are covered with electricians tape. When I connect the WTC wires to the battery, the connection is covered in RTV to make it watertight.

And also what are all those gray color blocks?

Those are pieces of blue foam insulation, made by Dow. They provided the buoyancy for the hull. Getting the correct waterlines or trim, for surfaced and submerged operations, is a two part process. D&E Miniatures covers it in the owners manulas for their line of WTC's. You need to get the boat trimmed at its surfaced waterline first, with a full "gas" tank. When the boat is properly trimmed for surface operations, then you can start trimming it for submerged ops. After you flood the ballast tank, you need to add some foam in the upper hull for submerged trim.

Thor Design has on-line directions for building their PERMIT kit. The directions will give you a beter idea of what's involved in using one of the fiberglass hulls, no matter who makes them.



Edited By chips on 1101655661