Joining PVC hulls: PVC glue query

[craigf]

Basic question, I've never used PVC glue and am generally inexperienced joining plastic except for styrene. I got some Oatey PVC "gray" glue. Is that the right stuff? It's for working on a SubTech Albacore, which I presume is PVC since PVC glue was suggested. I don't like the sound of that Oatey stuff (what's in it), though I'm sure it's waterproof considering what it's meant for. I'm a slow worker and it sounds too fast-setting for me. Can I use 2-hour epoxy (about my speed...)? The 2-hour stuff is waterproof, but I don't know how good it is for joining PVC. Or is there a better type of PVC glue than what I got? Thanks.

[bigdave]

Craig, The best glue for

Craig, The best glue for the plastic on the Albacore kit is good old Testors plastic model cement. Dave.

[craigf]

Really? Whoda thunk it? Thanks,

Really? Whoda thunk it? Thanks, I'll try that. I didn't know it was waterproof. Most of the plastic glues/bonders I have don't mention PVC as one of the plastics they're recommended for (but mention a bunch of others), so I was wondering what's special about PVC.

[craigf]

Bigdave]

[color=#000080]Bigdave]

[skip asay]

CraigF -

Dave's answer was absolutely

CraigF -

Dave's answer was absolutely correct. For virtually all of the Albacore construction (all of the white plastic parts), Testor's is the best stuff to use. You asked about PVC cement which IS required but only in one area. Gap filling CA and silicone adhesive are also required. Please note that this is addressed in the instructions which should be read COMPLETELY before attempting to assemble.

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[craigf]

Skip]

[color=#000080]Skip]

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CraigF -

I've used Oatey PVC

CraigF -

I've used Oatey PVC cement many times and in many different applications. It works well. The only downside I have ever seen with PVC cement is that once the can is opened it's usable life is very short. so unless you're redoing the plumbing in your entire house, buy the smallest can you can get and then throw it away when you're finished. Putting it on the shelf for any more than a month or so (after opening it) can be an invitation to disaster.
OK, maybe a month is a little overkill but at less than $2.00 a can (US), it's no big loss.

BTW - Using PVC primer is a good idea but you can still get excellent results by just sanding the areas to be glued.

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[liftmys10]

I read the manual a

I read the manual a few years ago and i misplaced it. Where do you use PVC cement? You mentioned its only for one place? I think i used it but i just dont remember where. For the plastic parts, i used testor plastic cement.

[skip asay]

The ballast tank base, which

The ballast tank base, which is a 1/2" X 1/2" X 2 3/4" piece of PVC plastic, should be cemented with PVC cement since nothing else is as secure. CA IS NOT ADVISED. This is a potential leak spot so attention to detail is required.

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[liftmys10]

The ballast tank base, which

The ballast tank base, which is a 1/2" X 1/2" X 2 3/4" piece of PVC plastic, should be cemented with PVC cement since nothing else is as secure. CA IS NOT ADVISED. This is a potential leak spot so attention to detail is required.

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OOh yeah thanks. Yup i used PVC cement for that.

[craigf]

Thanks Skip. Yup, I had

Thanks Skip. Yup, I had just got the smallest can.

Couple more questions, maybe you'll see them

Propel tank: what's the recommended size?

Vent holes: if I make the small rectangular ones in the upper hull as shown on your drawing, are they enough to do the job properly, or should I make some in the lower hull as described in the instructions too? Thanks.

[craigf]

Forget the second question, I

Forget the second question, I didn't understand the "inset" re the drain holes on the big drawing, *now* I get it!