Revell type VIIc - got a way to split it

[the u-boat builder]

for you guys who dont know what to do with your revell type VII's here is what i plan on doing. split the hull verticaly where the rear and middle sections of the plastic deck come together. then there is a circle that is stamped into the plastic about an inch away from the split, near the rear. bore that hole and JBweld a nut to a peice of metal. secure the metal to the plastic bulkhead suplied with it. repeat on the other side. put a screw through the hole you bored (make sure it lines up with the nut) and tighten them up. to secure the top,make a hook and attach it to the sten end of the half you cut. on the other half make a u-shaped peice and secure it. the u-shape and the hook should lock securely, then tighten the bolts and your done. ill let you guys know how it goes.

[fung pang]

too much work!

fung pang http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_razz.gif

too much work!

fung pang

[d manley]

Here are some preliminary pic’s

Here are some preliminary pic’s of the wt conversion.

http://www.geocities.com/smallworldmodels/revell/revell.html

No hull chopping!

Dave

[turbobearcat]

]

[color=#000000]]

[bigdave]

Very cool design Dave, I

Very cool design Dave, I like it. I think you are on the right track. Good luck. Dave.

[mr t]

my answer is to have

my answer is to have a dry hull no need to worry about wet motors or waterproofing servos. Just buy 4x 4oz fishing lead weights to weigh it down

[tennesseejim]

Mark]

[color=#000000]Mark]

[turbobearcat]

I have two gear boxes

I have two gear boxes from a Nimicho Battleship Yamato(2 of them) and from what I can see it fits if I turn it upside down, the shafts come very very close to being alined perfect.

I hope to have the electronics mounted by Friday evening, this weekend I will be on the road once more.

I will let you know how things are working..I can shoot video!

Mark

[fung pang]

I am with Dave, no

I am with Dave, no cutting up the hull, service the sub from top(dack) down.

2 small motors set up is easier, than gear box.

if you need a gear box( counterrotate ), with out buying a battelship try

http://www2.stevenshobby.com:5641/

part number MBL-129




is the small one.

they have gears and cheap prop too.

but if you must have counterrotate props, you have to buy a big battelship. they don't have one.

or call ship and things, he must have some!

wtc part is the easy part(only if my work! will post pictures soon), setting up the stern plane and rudders are not easy,

Dave when you try out the sub in the pool, did it turn like a sub with the scale rudders?

not turning!

also will the sub dymanic dive with the scale dive planes, that come with the sub?
ludicrous speed!(spaceball the movie) may help it dive.

SC#400

[turbobearcat]

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_smile.gif at full speed you

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_smile.gif[/img] at full speed you should be able to hear it across the pond! heheh.. but once I used thick rubber pad around the motor, it helped quite down things and once in the water it also quite down some more due to the load placed on the motor and bushings I installed.

I will release some pictures soon and my bow diving planes are working great now to get those rudders working which should not be too bad..I ran into the same problem with my Battlecrusier Scharnhorst which some of you might remember from last year at Carmel Ind. two rudder but in a very very tight location. Now can somebody tell me what MSC I should use, the ones I normally use have forward function only and they are big enough for my ships but maybe too big the WTC I've made without making the WTC longer..

Chip..you ned to come over soon and check this out.

Mark