Need Akula Help!

[ericpw8818]

[color=#000000]Hello all,

I am working on a 1/96 SSY Akula, and need help working on the stern planes and rudders. I used a drill press in order to drill and install the shafts on the planes, and got all planes functioning as wished. Now I have the planes CA'ed to the hull, and have begun fabricating the linkages and have run into a bind...literally. I cant seem to create a shape of yoke that will not interfere with the other yoke, perhaps I need to move the dive planes or rudders forward or back? any help would be appreciated.

Special note to Wayne Frey]

[wayne frey]

Eric,
You are welcome. Anything

Eric,
You are welcome. Anything I can do...
The article Paul did on Matt's outstanding Permit kit is a good guide line that can be applied to almost any kit. You should not have to move the rudders and planes. A jumper should work.Where do things seem to run together?
You will find a lot of support on this board.
By the way, I had the pleasure of driving Paul's finished Permit a few weeks ago. Once a boat is trimmed out,it is an awsome fun to drive. One finger one one stick and she behaved beautifully. When you are done,it will be worth it.

[boatbuilder1]

hey let me know how

hey let me know how you fair with these that boat is incredubly small and cramped I did one of these about 5 years ago and no matter what I did they (linkages) smacked each other no matter how small Imade the yokes I ended up cutting a slot in the hull and a control horn exiting the hull and a linkage rod to the horn all was painted black to match the hull so it was the least abtrusive

take care

[wayne frey]

Charles,
Wasn't that an Alfa

Charles,
Wasn't that an Alfa 1/96, which is much smaller? The 1/96 Akula is close in size to the 1/72 Alfa. There is room.
If nothing else,there is the ,what I think is called, the Sharpe method. You can run two rods forward from Dubro collars that have tabs attached to the side. Once farther into the hull,you can join the two control surfaces in another linkage and continue to the WTC. Being general here. I saw this illustration posted somewhere. It is also in an old Report.

[boatbuilder1]

ah yes I have such

ah yes I have such a bad memory thanks wayne and sorry for the confusion
duh idiot me

ca

[ericpw8818]

Hey Wayne,

well it seems that

Hey Wayne,

well it seems that the dive planes assembly wont mesh with the rudder assembly, and when a shaft runs through the middle things get really special. The stern plane linkage only can go one way really far and then strikes the shaft. If I adjust it to some where in the middle it doesnt get enough throw! I am going to invest in some Mikes Subworks assemblies and see if they work. Im not one to give up, but I need to try something else, as two attempts havent done it. I appreciate the help.

While I am on the board here, has anyone built a WTC 3.5 for a 1/96 Akula, and if so any pics of the set up?

Thanks
Eric

[m. munger]

Eric- be thankful it's not

Eric- be thankful it's not a 1]Tim Smalley's Hint's Page[/url]. There's an illustration of how you can extend and offset the dive plane linkages. On my Alfa, I used a small chunk of PVC tubing to represent the hull, and worked out the linkages inside it in a vise instead of the stern of a hull, which cut down the frustration a notch!

There are other examples of workable stern linkages on the web. I've heard anything more than about 35 degrees deflection from zero and you go from 'control surface' to 'brake.'

Good luck, take pictures, share how you overcome this obstacle!
Matt

[chips]

I used wheel collars and

I used wheel collars and ball links for the stern planes on my first sub, a SSY 1/72 scale SKIPJACK. On the wheel collar, drill and tap a hole about 90 degrees from the set screw. Thread a ball link into the hole, you may have to trim off some of the threaded portion of the ball link. Install on the shafts for the stern planes.

[drdave]

I built up a Scale

I built up a Scale Shipyard Akula using a D&E WTC 3.5 Linkage is easy to make but it is different For the rudder I used a jumper and for the stern planes I ran individual linkage forward seperately and connected it to a bar with steering arms If you can email me at Drdv654@cs.com I can send you some pictures of the set up It works fine as you can adjust each dive plane by itself and it is sturdy and works fantastic Make sure the rudder and the dive planes are free in operation and no rough spots. The boat turns like a pig in the ater but with a lower slipper rudder that you can put on when sailing it and tak it off for display it will work well in the water . Well emailme at Drdv654@cs.com and I will send you the pictrure of the linkage Take care Dr Dave