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Absolutely smooth 140mm od pvc pipe. It has 3d printed side sonar arrays, the towed array housing and some odds and ends to add to it but other than that, totally smooth...
Machining the bulkheads with scroll saw, jig saw, and belt sander to fit outside tube. Cutting wtc holes tomorrow. Most of the PE now attached. Can't stand or sit for long because of knee replacement but trying...
Not being a 3d printer type yet, I made my bulkheads out of an acrylic like material(cuts like Corian countertop stuff)using a scroll saw, circle cutter and bench top sander. Maybe a 3d printer would be a better idea. Using 3 of the semi circles as a cradle for the wtc and 2 or 3 more to help keep deck in place. Next is to rip the top of the main hull tube off to get full access to wtc. This acrylic glue was obtained at the same plastic shop where I got the small sheet of acrylic to make the bulkheads. I glued to pieces of scrap together and they couldn't ne separated after 15 minutes and the manufacturer says full hardness after 24 hours. Also supposed to be water resistant for model submarines...
One minor detail you might want to consider... if you're saddles are going to wrap up that high in the boat, punch a few holes through them to allow water to flow through. That will help the boat settle evenly when placed in to the water and help it drain fully when taking it out.
Dave,
Did you ask how to cut a PVC pipe?
I used the above contraption to cut my Type XXIII hull. It worked, but next time, I would build it more like David Merriman did.
Mine would shift on the stand. This made for some ugly hull seams which took a bit to fix.
How do you hold the hull or PVC down?
I placed/glued a length of coarse sandpaper along the center of a melamine board (it holds the hull and prevents slipping). I used tape to hold the hull against the board and sandpaper, but rubber bands would work better.
Peace,
Tom
Clamped the tube down on the welding table(perfect fit!)with hand clamps at each end with padding under tips. Put 3 of the wtc saddles inside with tape to maintain roundness and cut away with fine bladed jig saw. Worked perfectly. Moved saddles to correspond to next cut and taped the cut edges together to keep shape. Cut other line perfectly. Repositioned saddles and added two front end bulkheads and dropped wtc in for test fit. Wtc is set back to allow for gear reduction box on end. Was sweating profusedly over tearing up this tube, I can tell you. Now to add some flaps at top edges to get the narrowest gap possible and hopefully I have the cut lines right at the water line...
Just a beginner with a Eastwood Mig 135. Need to learn how to weld automotive sheet metal to repair rust in my 32 year old 1987 Formula Firebird which I bought new on Oct. 86. Thicker metal is relatively easy...
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