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Been a while since I posted. 591 has been through a major refit, now at MOD3.0
Everything seemed in order until sea trials in Groton. The fabled SES-1 Electronic Ballast Switch blew a FET or something. Doesn't something always rear it's head when travelling??
Well, whatever caused the Electronic pump switch to blow in Groton this past June was related to the old FMA Direct VOLCANO Speed Controller. I even suspect it may have been the cause.
I ran that boat MOD2.0 with the SES-1 for 2 1/2 solid seasons with no issue, using the brushless motor and it's ESC supplying power to the RX. Solid as a rock.
FF to Groton and the first sea trials of the refit, and boom! Issues!! First it appeared I just lost the electronic Ballast Control Switch. Which I of course replaced with a servo and two lever switches since Groton.
Now when we went out this past weekend, a new issue surfaced. Intermittent loss of signal, like it was glitching. NEVER experienced glitching with 2.4ghz, even at rotten-Groton, this boat ran autopilot. Also, I saw when I swapped the electronic Ballast switch, the VOLCANO ESC had what appeared to be melted ground wire to the RX. I suspected this ESC had an issue,which may merely not have the current capability to handle the RX and subsequent electronics it was feeding.
FWIW, some ESC's I see out there nowadays can supply up to 6A to the RX!.
Regardless, something cooked, either the switch had cooked the ESC or something else. The ESC had to go too. Regardless of hoping to limp through the remainder of the season with just the appearance of a heat damaged wire, I had to bite the bullet and swap it out.
Lucky I had a spare ESC to use. Solid State ESC (20A_Brushed).Originally reserved for 722 (my 1/48 688), I figured use it now while I find a suitable replacement for the 722. Got it sometime in the late '90's or so I don't remember from who (Al Matava Ships-n-Things)?? It's yellow and not very large, say 1" x 2-1/2".
Rated at 20A continuous, which is double the fuse rating I have on the motor, it should be fine. Though it doesn't give a rating for the BEC, it does say "If the internal b.e.c. is supplying many servos and receiver, the maximum continuous drive current may be limited to below 20 amps." How do you quantify "many"? I have 4 servos (Rudder, Stern, F/W, Ballast switches servo) and an electronic Gas Solenoid switch. Even though I prefer having actual specifications, I think I'll be fine.
BTW, after I yanked the old VOLCANO, I discovered the damage to the ground lead was much more extensive. It appears to have acted like a fuse. I didn't see this actual break till after it was out and suspect it was touching allowing the boat to run intermittently, appearing like the "Groton Glitch" we're familiar with. Pulling it out must've finally broke it apart. Notice the heat damage on the black wire......
...and on the connector itself.
Here's a photo of the current setup. A Fast Cruise (bench test) indicated everything appears fine. Hope to get her out this weekend and prove it.
As some of you remember, MOD2.0 utilized a home made PVC pipe with that annular ballast tank. Great idea for economizing on space, but my particular unit was difficult to service. This new system, which I'm finally settling on as the standard for 6 of my 8 boats has proven to remain BONE dry with access as easy as flipping two latches. Easy-peasy to stuff with operating gear. If fact 722 set up will be identical to 591.
Everything seemed in order until sea trials in Groton. The fabled SES-1 Electronic Ballast Switch blew a FET or something. Doesn't something always rear it's head when travelling??
Well, whatever caused the Electronic pump switch to blow in Groton this past June was related to the old FMA Direct VOLCANO Speed Controller. I even suspect it may have been the cause.
I ran that boat MOD2.0 with the SES-1 for 2 1/2 solid seasons with no issue, using the brushless motor and it's ESC supplying power to the RX. Solid as a rock.
FF to Groton and the first sea trials of the refit, and boom! Issues!! First it appeared I just lost the electronic Ballast Control Switch. Which I of course replaced with a servo and two lever switches since Groton.
Now when we went out this past weekend, a new issue surfaced. Intermittent loss of signal, like it was glitching. NEVER experienced glitching with 2.4ghz, even at rotten-Groton, this boat ran autopilot. Also, I saw when I swapped the electronic Ballast switch, the VOLCANO ESC had what appeared to be melted ground wire to the RX. I suspected this ESC had an issue,which may merely not have the current capability to handle the RX and subsequent electronics it was feeding.
FWIW, some ESC's I see out there nowadays can supply up to 6A to the RX!.
Regardless, something cooked, either the switch had cooked the ESC or something else. The ESC had to go too. Regardless of hoping to limp through the remainder of the season with just the appearance of a heat damaged wire, I had to bite the bullet and swap it out.
Lucky I had a spare ESC to use. Solid State ESC (20A_Brushed).Originally reserved for 722 (my 1/48 688), I figured use it now while I find a suitable replacement for the 722. Got it sometime in the late '90's or so I don't remember from who (Al Matava Ships-n-Things)?? It's yellow and not very large, say 1" x 2-1/2".
Rated at 20A continuous, which is double the fuse rating I have on the motor, it should be fine. Though it doesn't give a rating for the BEC, it does say "If the internal b.e.c. is supplying many servos and receiver, the maximum continuous drive current may be limited to below 20 amps." How do you quantify "many"? I have 4 servos (Rudder, Stern, F/W, Ballast switches servo) and an electronic Gas Solenoid switch. Even though I prefer having actual specifications, I think I'll be fine.
BTW, after I yanked the old VOLCANO, I discovered the damage to the ground lead was much more extensive. It appears to have acted like a fuse. I didn't see this actual break till after it was out and suspect it was touching allowing the boat to run intermittently, appearing like the "Groton Glitch" we're familiar with. Pulling it out must've finally broke it apart. Notice the heat damage on the black wire......
...and on the connector itself.
Here's a photo of the current setup. A Fast Cruise (bench test) indicated everything appears fine. Hope to get her out this weekend and prove it.
As some of you remember, MOD2.0 utilized a home made PVC pipe with that annular ballast tank. Great idea for economizing on space, but my particular unit was difficult to service. This new system, which I'm finally settling on as the standard for 6 of my 8 boats has proven to remain BONE dry with access as easy as flipping two latches. Easy-peasy to stuff with operating gear. If fact 722 set up will be identical to 591.