1:72 Revell Skipjack modifying

[steveuk]

New thread - (I know.."should be finishing the other big project!" But I started on this already, so here is my build log.)

Originally this was supposed to be built straight out the box so I could test run a new dive module for Ron. But after a bit of research I decided I would like to build her as USS Shark final refit form - ie extra sonar bumps, towed array etc.

So off to a flying start with the fitting out of R/C running gear. I am using kit parts, so the control surfaces needed to be modified for RC. Here's how I did things so far

(questions/ comments welcome)

[steveuk]

The outer hinge pin for the dive planes on the kit look very fragile. So I made a new end plate out of brass. I used photo ref of Scorpions wrecked hull for info to modify the kit parts. The end plate is removable if need be via two stainless screws.

[JWLaRue]

Steve,

Very nicely done. Having a means to disassemble for maintenance is a good idea.

-Jeff

[steveuk]

If any one is using this for build info - One of the kit mistakes is the rudder post is too far forward, so rudder post and hole in hull needs to move back by 1/8th inch. I did this and filled the old hole up. (see above pic previous post)

I carried on adding rib detail which will form the oil canning effect on my well used USS Shark. The finished effect will be subtle. (Hopefully). Also shown Pic ref used to copy correct structural rib patterns. Pic is of Scorpions wrecked remains. (sad story) Also Scamp stern planes in drydock.

[steveuk]

Thank you Jeff. A friend of mine already had a dive plane outer hinge snapped.

[steveuk]

Running gear and New Dive module installed. It has a single central ballast tank, water pump and unique snorkel device (fitted inside tower) which enables it to also fully flood negative if desired.

[steveuk]

As I research for this I am discovering a number of ..inaccuracies with the kit.

Looking at the tower (or fin or bridge, which ever your word of choice), in my opinion the detail is not really accurate. Starting with the hole in between upper and lower windows. Guessing it is a fog horn or load haler hiding in there. Well looks to me the kit has this hole too small and too low. So I filled it in and drilled out a new larger hole higher up. You can just make out the old filled hole in this build photo.

[steveuk]

Turning my attention to the main hull and it is here where I find the most surprising error. Surprising because absolutely no one seems to have noticed yet. The safety track depicted on the kit is completely wrong! I don't know how this happened but somehow the fwd safety track has been placed running down the stbd side of the deck, and across the fwd emergency buoy hatch. All the photo's I found of real Skipjacks show the fwd safety track running down the center of the fore deck in between the MBT vents. And it is a flat track.

So I have carefully removed the rounded pipe detail from the kit and will replace with T section down the centre in between MBT vents.

Pic ref shows Snook deck - note safety track runs down center not down stbd side.

[steveuk]

Tail fins - finished the filling and sanding process port side. I think this is ready for a bit of primer to tie it together and see what the final effect is going to look like..

[wlambing]

US boats don't have oil canning on the control surfaces, because they are stuffed full of impregnated wood before they are final welded. The shipyard picture with the smooth surface shows how they look at the end of life, too. They stay smooth. The Scorpion picture shows what happens with 14,000 feet of sea pressure. Wood is compressible. Keep going, though, 'cos it looks good!

B^)

[steveuk]

Thanks B, I didn't know that control surfaces on US subs were filled with wood! Trying to understand how this works. So sea pressure is compressing the wood filling inside Scorpions control surfaces. Would it not make more design sense then to leave rudders and dive planes hollow and free flooding, that way the pressure outside the control surface would equal the pressure inside and result in no compression force on the structures? The next question this leads me to is, what sort of max operating pressures do the subs dive to, and would these pressures be enough to cause slight compression of the wood filling on operational subs. This would result in slight dishing in being visible on control surfaces and hulls of subs that have gone deep? I agree with you that most of the time the subs do look smooth. Here though is one of the (few) pics which inspired me to add this kind of detail on to my model. Not sure if it is a Lafayette

[wlambing]

Steve,

The picture you have there is about the worst extent you would see on our boats. The wood keeps the control surface from crushing under the immense loads placed on it, even under normal ship maneuvers. It also eliminates a potential issue caused by trapped air. Your canning technique may very well work to be quite representative to the sort seen in your picture. I don't know when that pic was shot, but it could be near the end of that ship's life, with a whole bunch of years exposed to those pressures and loads. In 1/72 scale and larger it can look pretty cool. In 1/96 and smaller, why bother? A similar argument can be made for weld lines on our model boats. I can't give you specific numbers for depths and pressures, 'cos I like my job!!! Your work is looking good! B^)

[steveuk]

Thanks for your valuable input. Agreed, at 1/72 I am pleased with how it is adding something to see on large smooth areas. My model is intended to represent Shark in her very later years so maybe I can get away with it. I plan to run with this same theme and add concentric bands down the hull. Weld lines might be interesting to add.. Having fun with this. And I love the ref material which this build has been producing.