Troubleshooting a bubble (bubbles) trapped in Ballast Tank after Fully Valve Venting

[southern or]

Since wax was brought up, has anyone tried different temperatures of Sex Wax?

Edit: Sex Wax is a brand name of surfboard wax. Temperature has to do with the water temp and hardness of the wax-ranging from hard to very soft.

[bigdave]

Wasn't it Don Ho that sang.

"Tiny bubbles in my tank, make me unhappy, and my sub sank"

Sorry, it's early and the coffee has not kicked in. BD

[scott t]

I believe soap lowers water tension so the water gets in easier.

http://www.chem.ufl.edu/~saacs/outreach/Break%20the%20Tension_A%20Water%20Experiment.pdf

Found in experiment on web:
When you add soap to water, however, the surface tension breaks. Soap molecules consist of nonpolar, dipole-free bodies and a polar head. When soap mixes with water, the polar heads attach to the surface of the water and the nonpolar bodies tend to point upwards, away from the water, reducing the water’s surface tension. Thus, the paper clips sink and it becomes difficult to float new clips!

[corsaire]

I believe soap lowers water tension so the water gets in easier.

http://www.chem.ufl.edu/~saacs/outreach/Break%20the%20Tension_A%20Water%20Experiment.pdf

Found in experiment on web:
When you add soap to water, however, the surface tension breaks. Soap molecules consist of nonpolar, dipole-free bodies and a polar head. When soap mixes with water, the polar heads attach to the surface of the water and the nonpolar bodies tend to point upwards, away from the water, reducing the water’s surface tension. Thus, the paper clips sink and it becomes difficult to float new clips!

Great information! Thanks a lot. I have to try it now, this may solve the mystery of the bubble trapped in the vent valve orifice not allowing for more water in. Awesome. I think one drop of liquid soap might just do the trick.

[corsaire]

I believe soap lowers water tension so the water gets in easier.

http://www.chem.ufl.edu/~saacs/outreach/Break%20the%20Tension_A%20Water%20Experiment.pdf

Found in experiment on web:
When you add soap to water, however, the surface tension breaks. Soap molecules consist of nonpolar, dipole-free bodies and a polar head. When soap mixes with water, the polar heads attach to the surface of the water and the nonpolar bodies tend to point upwards, away from the water, reducing the water’s surface tension. Thus, the paper clips sink and it becomes difficult to float new clips!

Just to report that a liquid soap drop works in the vent valve helping filling the ballast tank completely, bad news is it doesn't seem to last beyond two vents which makes since the soap drop gets washed out after that. Perhaps there is a special kind of soap that may last longer?

[salmon]

Since it appears that the vent is trapping the air, Have you adjusted the vent to open more?

[corsaire]

I'd just wish the vent orifice was larger but I could try to open it up a bit more, it's a fine line since I could open it too much and start leaking. Let's see how far I can keep pushing before hitting the law of diminishing returns!

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Making the hole bigger?

I think there is some confusion.
I think Tom, "salmon", may be referring to making the valve travel more (from closed to open) making the opening less obstructed ... making it bigger.
Not making the opening bigger by trimming away material around the opening.

.

[salmon]

I am sorry for not being clear, Ralph is correct.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I got one Right! yippy.............

[corsaire]

No, no confusion, that's what I meant by "opening up a bit more" (sorry) or turning the screw clock wise to allow more travel. But I still wish the hole was more like a 1/4 inch instead of 1/8. :-)

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

1/8" vent hole!

That is small.
How big is the vent plug?
How much overlap is there?
Can a larger valve plug be made to fit and then a bigger hole could be made.

I need to go back and look at the photos you posted again.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I have looked at the photo.

If making the valve bolt move farther away from the opening, I think I would look for a new bolt with a larger head and maybe one that also has a fixed washer.
I might even consider making my own new bolt so I could make a groove of ledge for an o-ring to seal when closed.
Another option would be to reshape the bolt head and then make a form hold silicone while it cures in place to the shape of the part.


Is the valve bolt threaded all the way to the head of the bolt?
Id so, can a flat wash and a rubber washer be put under the head.
Bend the washer to fit the curve and hold the rubber washer to the curve.
Drill the vent hole so the bolt head will go through but not the washers.

Can you take a photo showing the vent assembly in profile?

I can think of several options to make a new valve bolt and vent hole assembly using the existing.

[salmon]

Try checking this out:

http://support.caswellplating.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/GetAttachment/230/133

[corsaire]

I have looked at the photo.

If making the valve bolt move farther away from the opening, I think I would look for a new bolt with a larger head and maybe one that also has a fixed washer.
I might even consider making my own new bolt so I could make a groove of ledge for an o-ring to seal when closed.
Another option would be to reshape the bolt head and then make a form hold silicone while it cures in place to the shape of the part.


Is the valve bolt threaded all the way to the head of the bolt?
Id so, can a flat wash and a rubber washer be put under the head.
Bend the washer to fit the curve and hold the rubber washer to the curve.
Drill the vent hole so the bolt head will go through but not the washers.

Can you take a photo showing the vent assembly in profile?

I can think of several options to make a new valve bolt and vent hole assembly using the existing.

I really think Dave's design for his WTC (sub driver) is very ingenious and well thought out but like anything else it is perfectible. An example of that is the vent hole, it could be a bit larger, even 3/16" would make a big difference.

Attached is a pic of my current set-up (see 1st pic), showing the bluish rubber piece in the center of the hole and Dave's innovation of adding a piece of brass tubing to fit the hole, before it didn't have it (see 3rd pic), just the polyurethane material which was proned to chipping causing leaking problems.

I have also attached a pic of a larger vent valve, the one Skip used to sell (dark blue color 2nd pic) many years ago along with the solenoid valve to go with it, I've been thinking of adapting these two to my current WTC, it would mean to block somehow the current vent 1/8" hole and drill a 1/4" on top of the cylinder to adapt the new valve. It would make it look clunkier perhaps but less prone to bubble trappings like the current one. It could be a winter project. Let me have your suggestions and opinions.