Tweet
Hydraulics 101 for everything RC !
Hello to all fellow builders and Captains.
Here is a simple inexpensive hydraulic system that anyone can make to suit there own applications and without any harm to the environment.
All parts are readily available and very inexpensive.
The performance is truly realistic and reliable due to its simplicity.
First of all with one variable channel or a three position switched channel a host of hydraulic operations or options can be engineered.
The fluid is water nothing else or as in my Alfa some of the masts draw there water from the lake she is in in order to eliminate the large reservor that 3 masts would require since the syringes are the large type,due to the large heads on these masts.The water is filtered before its pumped and self cleans when the pump reverses.
The lines are the large fuel lines used on glow fuel aircraft 1/8 size and fit the syringes very well and the pump pressure wont blow them off even after the end of stroke or lock.
The neatest thing about this system is when 2 or more syringes are used one on the pump the other on the other side of the pump a sealed system is made and they balance out or counter each others movement ,now any size syringes in any order can be used.
To prevent cavitation or air in the pump a small fuel tank is used with three lines one is a vent fill port and is closed in operation ,the other 2 are the suply or return lines ,as water is pumped in or out the air is seperated from the water by these 2 pipes that do not conect and the tank acts as an aqumulator to always provide pressure or suction a 3 oz. tank is large enogh for 3 large rams.This tank is not necessary in the above sealed system .
In other words suppose you have retracting dive planes ,well where does all the water go after the evacuation of the syringe?
To another set of syringes or "rams" as I call them,to move lets say the retractable cleats and capstans that subs have hidden under the hull ,now you can show them working.The sub pulls up to the dock the planes retract and as they do so the cleats and capstans extend out just enough to be in scale.Now your wondering about well what about the rest of the water volume remaining?
In the design of the rams for the cleats the sliding shaft just lifts a fraction of an inch to lets say 3/8th and the ram stops at the end of its stroke taking in the rest of the volume of water.
Clamshell Doors for the masts also use one ram per pair of doors controlled by one servo and many sets can be operated at once from one pump.
Now for the guts of it all,the pump I found to be the best all around in price value,small size and has brass gears which is important since running dry can occur,is from Hobby Lobby for 19.90$ HLH 703 I belive ,but its there best pump for glow fuel and it really is ,it wont overheat as others do and the pressure is very good for this type of applications and it wont draw a lot of power.I tried just about every make of gear pump out there and this one is No.1 .
I use 4 in the Alfa and with 2 100uf capacitors the noise was eliminated and works very well.There are other much expensive ones that put out more pressure at 12 volts as I use ,and can be applied to more extensive or stronger hydraulics applications like cranes ect.
Also by reducing the voltage to 6 volts or less the actuation is slowed down even more without a ritriction valve that would waste energy.
As fore limit switches or sensors ,none required ,the pump simply works harder and that's when you move the radio switch to the neutral or off position.For example left is up center is off and right is down or reversing the pump,hence retracting the rams,very simple,no extra valves or servos.
By employing Technics robotics the rams can become articulated and other complex or simple movements can be easily made to suit your application.
Also Clippard rams can be used but 1/8 fittings are important since 1/16 is to small for hydraulics ,then only any freez or some lubricant should be used to prevent rust,that's the beauty of syringes they will never rust,leak or crack,and are a lot cheaper at the most 1.50$ each for the large ones.
As for the stops or outer lock of the ram a simple stainless steel wood screw is taped at exactly where you want the ram to stop at and it will not bend or crack or leak ,just stop at that point ,I recommend 2 screws one at each diameter to make it stop evenly.
The ram piston roods can be filled with epoxy to make it possible to insert the shaft for dive planes or masts,the epoxy will not stick to the inside of the ram therefore a mold is made when the piston is drawn out and the epoxy is hard.
Another neat thing I did was to make dive planes that retract straight out or no pivot and still move up and down.
By sawing off the end of one large ram that has the needle fitting and tapping in a 1/8 fitting of brass right in the middle of the ram and then inserting another ram piston on the other end a double actuating ram is created,then the hole ram is made to pivot up and down when the planes are extended .No fancy valves or electronics nor mechanical workings that can and will jam not to mention corrode are used and it works so nice you have to see it!Just like the real thing.
Remember there are several sizes of rams to chose from and depending on the length of stroke and size considerations there is a ram that will work for your application,especially since you can cut them to fit with a fine saw or dremel blade and screw in the stop point that you choose the applications are endless.
How to control the pump.
A simple reversing switch made from 2 micro switches glued in place on a servo of any size I like the micro servos and sub micro micro switches they take up less space.
I will get a pic of that circuit later.
Well for now shech out the pump and start your imagination and make your sub do more than ever before,and this is good for any RC viecle ,like aircraft retracts,tanks and battle ship turrets ect.
Have a great day from the engineering Soviet Beuroe Dave DEEPDIVER
Hello to all fellow builders and Captains.
Here is a simple inexpensive hydraulic system that anyone can make to suit there own applications and without any harm to the environment.
All parts are readily available and very inexpensive.
The performance is truly realistic and reliable due to its simplicity.
First of all with one variable channel or a three position switched channel a host of hydraulic operations or options can be engineered.
The fluid is water nothing else or as in my Alfa some of the masts draw there water from the lake she is in in order to eliminate the large reservor that 3 masts would require since the syringes are the large type,due to the large heads on these masts.The water is filtered before its pumped and self cleans when the pump reverses.
The lines are the large fuel lines used on glow fuel aircraft 1/8 size and fit the syringes very well and the pump pressure wont blow them off even after the end of stroke or lock.
The neatest thing about this system is when 2 or more syringes are used one on the pump the other on the other side of the pump a sealed system is made and they balance out or counter each others movement ,now any size syringes in any order can be used.
To prevent cavitation or air in the pump a small fuel tank is used with three lines one is a vent fill port and is closed in operation ,the other 2 are the suply or return lines ,as water is pumped in or out the air is seperated from the water by these 2 pipes that do not conect and the tank acts as an aqumulator to always provide pressure or suction a 3 oz. tank is large enogh for 3 large rams.This tank is not necessary in the above sealed system .
In other words suppose you have retracting dive planes ,well where does all the water go after the evacuation of the syringe?
To another set of syringes or "rams" as I call them,to move lets say the retractable cleats and capstans that subs have hidden under the hull ,now you can show them working.The sub pulls up to the dock the planes retract and as they do so the cleats and capstans extend out just enough to be in scale.Now your wondering about well what about the rest of the water volume remaining?
In the design of the rams for the cleats the sliding shaft just lifts a fraction of an inch to lets say 3/8th and the ram stops at the end of its stroke taking in the rest of the volume of water.
Clamshell Doors for the masts also use one ram per pair of doors controlled by one servo and many sets can be operated at once from one pump.
Now for the guts of it all,the pump I found to be the best all around in price value,small size and has brass gears which is important since running dry can occur,is from Hobby Lobby for 19.90$ HLH 703 I belive ,but its there best pump for glow fuel and it really is ,it wont overheat as others do and the pressure is very good for this type of applications and it wont draw a lot of power.I tried just about every make of gear pump out there and this one is No.1 .
I use 4 in the Alfa and with 2 100uf capacitors the noise was eliminated and works very well.There are other much expensive ones that put out more pressure at 12 volts as I use ,and can be applied to more extensive or stronger hydraulics applications like cranes ect.
Also by reducing the voltage to 6 volts or less the actuation is slowed down even more without a ritriction valve that would waste energy.
As fore limit switches or sensors ,none required ,the pump simply works harder and that's when you move the radio switch to the neutral or off position.For example left is up center is off and right is down or reversing the pump,hence retracting the rams,very simple,no extra valves or servos.
By employing Technics robotics the rams can become articulated and other complex or simple movements can be easily made to suit your application.
Also Clippard rams can be used but 1/8 fittings are important since 1/16 is to small for hydraulics ,then only any freez or some lubricant should be used to prevent rust,that's the beauty of syringes they will never rust,leak or crack,and are a lot cheaper at the most 1.50$ each for the large ones.
As for the stops or outer lock of the ram a simple stainless steel wood screw is taped at exactly where you want the ram to stop at and it will not bend or crack or leak ,just stop at that point ,I recommend 2 screws one at each diameter to make it stop evenly.
The ram piston roods can be filled with epoxy to make it possible to insert the shaft for dive planes or masts,the epoxy will not stick to the inside of the ram therefore a mold is made when the piston is drawn out and the epoxy is hard.
Another neat thing I did was to make dive planes that retract straight out or no pivot and still move up and down.
By sawing off the end of one large ram that has the needle fitting and tapping in a 1/8 fitting of brass right in the middle of the ram and then inserting another ram piston on the other end a double actuating ram is created,then the hole ram is made to pivot up and down when the planes are extended .No fancy valves or electronics nor mechanical workings that can and will jam not to mention corrode are used and it works so nice you have to see it!Just like the real thing.
Remember there are several sizes of rams to chose from and depending on the length of stroke and size considerations there is a ram that will work for your application,especially since you can cut them to fit with a fine saw or dremel blade and screw in the stop point that you choose the applications are endless.
How to control the pump.
A simple reversing switch made from 2 micro switches glued in place on a servo of any size I like the micro servos and sub micro micro switches they take up less space.
I will get a pic of that circuit later.
Well for now shech out the pump and start your imagination and make your sub do more than ever before,and this is good for any RC viecle ,like aircraft retracts,tanks and battle ship turrets ect.
Have a great day from the engineering Soviet Beuroe Dave DEEPDIVER