I recently changed to use of magnets to simplify connection of bowplane linkage automaticaly as I attached upper and lower hull halves together. I not only don't need to fiddle with tools after the hull halves are assembled, I also get smooth bowplane operation by attaching the magnet to the pushrod with a rubber tube. The slightly flexible rubber bends as the the bowplanes rotate.
A new twist with magnets
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A new twist with magnets
I recently changed to use of magnets to simplify connection of bowplane linkage automaticaly as I attached upper and lower hull halves together. I not only don't need to fiddle with tools after the hull halves are assembled, I also get smooth bowplane operation by attaching the magnet to the pushrod with a rubber tube. The slightly flexible rubber bends as the the bowplanes rotate.Tags: None
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Nice !
did you try
Nice !
did you try some extreme maneuvering ? there might be quite a force on those planes
sometimes, I guess you need a magnet of a certain strength.
Btw : NEVER file/sand/mutilate neodynium magnets. under the coating of those magnets there is some serious poison, or so I was told. The coating should stay intact.
How did you attach the magnet on the plane ? glue ?
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Hey, guys!
I'm certain that Merriman
Hey, guys!
I'm certain that Merriman has been using magnets like this for some time now with all of his SubDriver kits through Caswell. I just finished trimming out a gentleman's Gato sub that featured these, and now that I've seen and worked with them in person, I'm NEVER going back to conventional linkages.
The bond is very strong, even for the smaller magnets, and getting the WTC in and out is turned into a very fast process.
I've actually ordered a hundred of the 1/4" disc magnets for future projects. I used magnets to connect the upper dive linkages to my Seawolf, and they worked great!
I highly recommend their use to anyone thinking about it.
Now, if I can just get a while to work out how to use these things through a WTC shell, we wouldn't need linkage seals!
Hmmmm....
BobThe Nautilus Drydocks - Exceptional Products for the World of R/C Submarines - www.nautilusdrydocks.com
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I just got an email
I just got an email from Dave. Apparently he got the idea from Brian Stark. There ya go!
BobThe Nautilus Drydocks - Exceptional Products for the World of R/C Submarines - www.nautilusdrydocks.com
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I just used a slight
I just used a slight variation from Brian Stark's magnet idea, and the Klik-ons developed by Dave Merriman. In my sub, the attachment of the magnet to the pushrod is with a rubber hose. I used CA cement to secure the magnet to the rubber and the pushrod.
Ronald, I cemented the magnet into a hole in the aluminum arm on the rod connecting the two bow planes with CA, also.
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Just a heads up, ca
Just a heads up, ca is NOT waterproof! It will let go if unpainted. Talked to Bob Smith about this subject. Goop or JB weld, or slow setting, not 5 min, epoxy will work. 5 min epoxy is NOT waterproof. Locktite makes a waterproof epoxy that will setup in water. Great stuff! Found it at Lowes in a syringe type applicator. It dries a grey color and is very hard when cured.
Frank
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But how will you keep
But how will you keep it clean and tidy with all that rust that is sure to follow. Some things are worth the added expense.
see http://www.caswellplating.com/movies/PNP-SVideo.mov
I've used those little balls that connect to a push rod cup
I recently changed to use of magnets to simplify connection of bowplane linkage automaticaly as I attached upper and lower hull halves together. I not only don't need to fiddle with tools after the hull halves are assembled, I also get smooth bowplane operation by attaching the magnet to the pushrod with a rubber tube. The slightly flexible rubber bends as the the bowplanes rotate.
_________________
Art Broder .
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I set mine in a
I set mine in a little bit of Super-Sculpy that is drilled/tapped to thread on to the pushrod for adjustability. A drop of West Systems on the magnet gives a little more security.
Works great and is very inexpensive.
Magnet to magnet works best, although some of these are powerful enough to work with stainless, so no plating required.
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