Fix to Engel Akula retract machanism - Front dive planes wiring

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  • libor
    Junior Member
    • May 2005
    • 106

    Fix to Engel Akula retract machanism - Front dive planes wiring

    If you have problems with Engel front dive planes retract mechanism kit, here is how I made it work.

    I installed into my Akula kit the retract mechanism for front dive planes (Engel item-No. 1593-2) and oh-no, when I tested the fully installed system, I realized that it is not working as it should.

    Only the servo operating angle of front dive planes was working, and what worse - it was working even when mechanism was retracted (this is supposed to be switched-off when dive planes are retracted and should work only when the dive planes are extracted). Second servo, the one that extract the diving planes, was not working at all.

    My wife is not very excited of RC modeling, but patience - is what my wife envy watching me working on my sub-model. So this time it took me 3 long after-work nights finding the problem. I was not able to make mentioned mechanism to work until I realized, that, and I stress]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/retract corrections.JPG[/img]
  • libor
    Junior Member
    • May 2005
    • 106

    #2
    Hi, still no response from

    Hi, still no response from Engel service. Just to show more]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/PICT4951.JPG[/img]

    Note those modified D,A,B,C soldering points. I am not electrician but this placement of soldering points (+ next to - and D next to A,B,C) apparently seems more logical then the original configuration according to the plan (above, D next to + and - next to A,B,C). And what is really relevant, now it works

    While testing:

    Comment

    • libor
      Junior Member
      • May 2005
      • 106

      #3
      Today I received e-mail from

      Today I received e-mail from Mr. Engel explaining the problem; they attached old/incorrect instructions to my package of front dive planes. With apologize for inconvenience I obtained new instruction with corrected soldering points too. In case you posses the old/incorrect instructions, do not loose your nerves and see for your self how it is meant to be soldered, (basically as I described above)]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/Correct Soldering Points.jpg[/img]
      Libor

      Comment

      • tmsmalley
        SubCommittee Member
        • Feb 2003
        • 2376

        #4
        I congratulate you for your

        I congratulate you for your (and your wife's) patience!

        We would like to see more photos of your project as you build it!

        Comment

        • magpie
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2006
          • 37

          #5
          I'll second that Tim!!
          A very

          I'll second that Tim!!
          A very interesting build indeed!!!
          I hope you have a rechargeable drill spanner to do those nuts up!! There are lots.
          Well done so far and like Tim wants, "more pics please!!!
          Jason

          Comment

          • libor
            Junior Member
            • May 2005
            • 106

            #6
            Jason, there are 14 nuts

            Jason, there are 14 nuts to tighten the lid. I use "manual" chrome vanadium key no. 7 and so far I did not get bored

            Few pictures here:

            Inside:






            Outside:




            OK, and now, one interesting cut I had to make to move the servo arm little bit front in order to get more space for pistontank:



            Yes, it HURT to cut finished middle deck, but I did my job, and now it works flawlessly.
            Libor




            Edited By libor on 1147249139

            Comment

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