Brass Handrail - How to Make? - Need Advice on Making Brass Handrail.

[tennesseejim]

I need to make some simple brass handrail for my conning tower and around the guns. I'm not sure where to start - I don't have much solder experience.

Does anyone know where any tips might be posted?

Is there a back issue of the SR with some instructions?

Any help is appreciate - Jim

[JWLaRue]

Hi TJ,

I've made my share

[color=#000000]Hi TJ,

I've made my share of handrails for my Type VII r/c subs and I started in much the same place that you're in now.

Here are the two methods that I ended up being comfortable with]

[tennesseejim]

Jeff]

[color=#000000]Jeff]

[JWLaRue]

Hi Jim,

...that depends on how

Hi Jim,

...that depends on how large the piece(s) of metal are. The more mass that you have, the more heat will be needed.

For railings made from something up to 1/8" brass rod, a 40 watt iron will probably be okay. My first Type VII set of railings were done with exactly that size/power of soldering pen. It was good enough, but not very flexible in terms of the amount of heat that I could apply at a given point.

My preference is to use an adjustable soldering torch with a very fine flat tip on it. With a little trial-and-error I can adjust the temperature so that it is not necessary to hold the tip of the torch on the work piece for very long. In other words, I have the tip hot enough to heat the two brass pieces quickly....but not hot enough to affect solder joints and such too far away from the joint being soldered.

I also prefer to use a silver solder and flux combination. The flux helps to transmit the heat (in addition to aiding in solder adhesion).

-Jeff

[boatbuilder1]

hey you could try using

hey you could try using a soldering gun I use mine all the time for small areas where an open flame is no good for the tower work emerse the tower half way up to keep it cool hold it down with a small chunk of lead

and dont for get to wash the bras thoroughly before painting or you will have hard time getting the paint to stick

ca

[JWLaRue]

Chuck,

I believe that you misunderstood.....

The

Chuck,

I believe that you misunderstood.....

The soldering torch that I am using does not use an open flame as the heating 'element'. The flame is entirely internal and heats up a removeable tip. ...and as I noted, I use a fine flat tip. The tip is basically the same as found on a soldering iron.

I find the torch to provide a much more controllable amount of heat that an electric iron. A quick adjustment and the temperature responds almost immediately.

-Jeff

[boatbuilder1]

I know I have the

I know I have the same thing but I still prefer to dunk the part to have some insurance against mishaps

[JWLaRue]

Chuck,

Help me out here, I'm

Chuck,

Help me out here, I'm possibly confused....but what does using a torch (vs. electric iron) have to do with immersing the work piece part way into water?

As for providing a heat sink (which is what you are essentially doing with the immersing), my favorite method is to use a set of surgical locking forceps. They provide plenty of heat sink capability for the short time needed while heat is being applied...and they serve to hols parts together when necessary.

-Jeff