Just bought a set of plans from Deep Sea designs of the LA Class. I am in the process of laying glass for the hull and then it dawned on me. what size engine, gear reduction, servo size, battery type and size? Never gave this much thought. I know I could buy these pre-made as a unit or kit, but I am looking to do this as much of this on my own skill. I have servos from my planes which should do fine. I have never messed with electric motors and gear reduction. Is there a formula for if sub weight is X you need Y motor and Y gear drive. I guess that would go for the servos also could I get away with using the mini or micro servos in stead of the standard sized servos? I know there are a lot of question NOOB to subs.
A little help please
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What size boat are you
What size boat are you building? I run a WTC-3 in my 1/96 scale LA boat and it works well.
Dave Manley of Small World Models has a nice line of WTCs as well. You can buy them complete or in components to do the construction work yourself as you seem to indicate wanting to do. http://www.geocities.com/smallworldmodels/index.htm
I see SWM is offering recession specials on their kits. You may be able to talk Dave into dealing on his WTCs as well (no promises, though).Warm regards,
Paul Crozier
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Re: A little help please
Just bought a set of plans from Deep Sea designs of the LA Class. I am in the process of laying glass for the hull and then it dawned on me. what size engine, gear reduction, servo size, battery type and size? Never gave this much thought. I know I could buy these pre-made as a unit or kit, but I am looking to do this as much of this on my own skill. I have servos from my planes which should do fine. I have never messed with electric motors and gear reduction. Is there a formula for if sub weight is X you need Y motor and Y gear drive. I guess that would go for the servos also could I get away with using the mini or micro servos in stead of the standard sized servos? I know there are a lot of question NOOB to subs.
you mite want to give the scale and dementions of the sub you are building, this way members can give you more in depth answers to your questions, in stead of just the general answers.
The dementions will be of great help them, when they give you an answer to your questions.
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Just to add to what
Just to add to what prez Myles said, you can buy endcaps, lexan tubing and seals from outfits on the vendor's page to make your own cylinder - though I must say - buying a WTC pre-made helps get your first sub in the water much faster.Then with your next sub (there ALWAYS is the next sub) you can mess around building a WTC. So many first timers get frustrated buiding a WTC and their boats wind up on Ebay.
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Get one of David Merriman's
Soon to be available in 'assembled' and 'kit' form, to make it more cost effective for you.
I completely understand the frustration of 'first timers', I was one only a short time ago. I've been there, dun that and Merriman & my business is fully aware of the problems a novice has with this hobby.
Thanks for pointing it out Tim!
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We're dumping 3" cylinders -
We're dumping 3" cylinders - obsolete! We now have 2.5" Sub-drivers using less space and doing the same job.
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I was actually considering that
I was actually considering that "obsolete" cylinder for my 32P XXIII. The 3" was considered, by many, to be a perfect match for this hull.
The reason the 3" is considered a perfect match is that many people have this unit already, and they like it. That's good!
However, over the past couple of years, we have seen much smaller servos, pitch controllers, speed controllers etc. etc. so the Aft Dry Space required is considerably less, meaning the cylinder can have a smaller diameter.
The major consideration is the ballast tank volume. In the old 3" unit, the total volume is 11.5 fl oz, whereas the new 2.5" cylinder has 12 fl oz. This is simply an improvement on a good system.
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The 2.5" cylinder must have
The 2.5" cylinder must have a longer ballast section than the 3" to have more volume (even to have the same volume) in its tank. As a result the forward and aft compartments must be shorter in length than the 3" cylinder allowing for not only less room in diameter but also in length inside those compartments. Or maybe the 2.5" overall length of entire unit is longer than the 3" was?
Don't think I'd want those little micro servos (like you have in the small Sub Drivers) to be working the planes and rudder of the 32P XXIII (which is a bigger/heavier boat with larger appendages than the static conversion Revell/Trumpeter models. I already have the relatively BIG Polk Seeker II receiver also, which takes up space.
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The 2.5" cylinder must have
The 2.5" cylinder must have a longer ballast section than the 3" to have more volume (even to have the same volume) in its tank. As a result the forward and aft compartments must be shorter in length than the 3" cylinder allowing for not only less room in diameter but also in length inside those compartments. Or maybe the 2.5" overall length of entire unit is longer than the 3" was?
Don't think I'd want those little micro servos (like you have in the small Sub Drivers) to be working the planes and rudder of the 32P XXIII (which is a bigger/heavier boat with larger appendages than the static conversion Revell/Trumpeter models. I already have the relatively BIG Polk Seeker II receiver also, which takes up space.
The 2.5" cylinder will also accept our standard size servos.
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