Looking for Brass Etch help (type XXIII)

[most_people]

Does such a kit exist for a 1/32 scale type XXIII?

I am also looking for some resources on 'how to' apply brass etchings properly to a sub hull.

Any help would be useful thanks!

[sam reichart]

Re: Looking for Brass Etch help (type XXIII)

Does such a kit exist for a 1/32 scale type XXIII?

I am also looking for some resources on 'how to' apply brass etchings properly to a sub hull.

Any help would be useful thanks!

what are you looking for specifically in brass for this boat? Just curious...

none of the brass manufacturers have anything that I've seen, but I bet if you got them some drawings, you could get it made...

[most_people]

Interesting.. well heres the deal,

Interesting.. well heres the deal, I have an old 32p type XXIII, that is still being built (bought in 2000 I think?). I am military so life sometimes gets in the way. Regardless I have done most of the slots and flood holes etc, but taking that 'step back' I can see that I am not as good at it as I wish I was. I saw people using etched brass cutouts to get that sharp uniform look and was wondering if there were kits for the 1/32 scale XXIII conning tower specifically, but pretty much any flood grate I assume could be made into brass.


That being said, I see pictures of people's boats where they are putting brass on, and was wondering if there were resources for 'how to' do this best? Take for example this picture, its sunk into the model - how'd he do dat?

It sounds though, like you have never seen anything, so I might have to send someone the pictures of what I need.

[JWLaRue]

re: attaching PE brass to

re: attaching PE brass to plastic/fiberglass hulls

I use one of two methods depending on the size of the brass piece. For small parts, I just use a CA adhesive. For the large parts, I tend to use a flexible epoxy like one of the 3M Scotch Weld products

The reason I use the 3M product for large pieces is that the fiberglass hull has a larger thermal coefficient of expansion than does the brass....so the flexible epoxy allows the two parts to 'move' without breaking the bond.

For *really* large PE parts, like Type VII main decks I only use 'mechnical' fasteners to hols it into place. I use things like the deck gun, bollards, conning tower, etc. that are already supposed to be there so that there aren't any visible 'model artifacts' like screws.

The (a) way to recess a brass PE part (or any other kind of part) is to use a Dremel tool and carefully grind out the area immediately beneath where the part is to be placed. The edges are the most critical area as that pretty much defines how the part sits.....too deep and the PE part looks too sunken...too shallow and it's not recessed enough.

-Jeff

[most_people]

re]

Wow very informative, thank you!

[quote]re]

Wow very informative, thank you! What style bit to you use in the dremel to recess the area?

[JWLaRue]

You're quite welcome!

I use a

You're quite welcome!

I use a diamond coated bit with the shape of a cone. Provides very nice control over both depth and area of the cut.

-Jeff

[scott t]

Have you ever tried using

Have you ever tried using silicone caulk to attach brass or other items?
Do you think it will stick to the brass?

-Scott

[JWLaRue]

Hi Scott,

I haven't used it

Hi Scott,

I haven't used it for that purpose. If the brass is lightly sanded to give it some 'tooth', that sounds like it would be a good alternative.

-Jeff