cueastou mini sub saucer sp 350 - need ref material

[boatbuilder1]

DOH!

DOH!

[anonymous]

DOH?

Steve

DOH?

Steve

[boatbuilder1]

yes steve Doh! its sold

yes steve Doh! its sold Doh !

[robert]

I'm the person who bought

I'm the person who bought the Saucer kit. In reviewing my files it turns out I have quite a few photos, and I have more on the way from some book purchases (that's the sound of money going down the drain you here). However I'm working on Autosketch (aka. Autocad, sort of) drawings of the model I just bought. When I get those done I'll post them somewhere public. So far I have the bottom part nearly completed, just trying to get the curve right on the cross section. Once that's done the top piece should be easy to draw, leaving the pressure hull and the two wingtips. In a week or so I should have them done (I'm not an autocad master...).

Here are couple of pictures from books I have]http://www.atombum.com/Images/Models/SaucerCrane.jpg[/url]

http://www.atombum.com/Images/Models/SaucerFrame.jpg

(nice pic showing some of the panels removed and the water jet propulsion tube as well as frame)

The kit, taped up, and sort of vaguely assembled, but not correctly:

http://www.atombum.com/Images/Models/SaucerAssem.jpg

[Guest]

Makings of a lovely model

Makings of a lovely model there.

Will you be using centrifugal pumps for propulsion?

Andy

[boatbuilder1]

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_smile.gif http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_smile.gif

thanks for the

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_smile.gif[/img]

thanks for the images your a Angel

chuck

[robert]

I'm a submarining newbie. My

I'm a submarining newbie. My plan is to use water jets just like the real sub used, though I may not use ones that are servo controlled for angle of appraoch. It's a longterm project as I'll need to decide what goes inside the pressure hull, and what I want to hang on framework in the wet area outside. Plus fabricating the pretty bits such as lights (working preferably), portholes, hatch springs, etc.

[robert]

FYI if you want some

FYI if you want some good source material on the Saucer, in addition to the book I mentioned earlier in this thread, try The Living Sea, one of the early books by Cousteau. It has a chapter which describes the testing of the first saucer and it has a few pictures including the ones I posted.

[Guest]

Why not use servo controlled

Why not use servo controlled jets. Wouldn't be that difficult to make, certainly no more tricky than adding hydrovanes (which won't work as well).

Here is what I'd consider a shopping list for this boat.

Minimum 4 channel set
Two centrifugal pumps.
Two ESC's. Steer in tank fashion with the thrusters
One servo for pitch control
Ballast system, recommend a small piston tank (could use a large syringe) or posiibly RCABS (inexpensive, but less accurate trim)

I don't think a pitch leveller will work on this model. No worry probably won't need it. Get the weight lowdown to increase the metacentric height, and the boat should be reasonably stable.

Andy

[anonymous]

Some comments. Since I sold

Some comments. Since I sold you this sub (sighs) I have to toss in my ideas too. All the ideas above put forth are reasonably good.

I would use two windshield washer 12 volt pumps, and control electronically, like Andy mentioned too, and aptly put 'tank fashion'. These pumps come from the junk yard already enclosed in the water reservoir and as such are already waterproof and sealed for placement in the free flood casing around the circumference of the saucer. Just cut away the water reservoir section, and leave the part inclosing the motor pump itself. Use these sealed water pumps in the free flood area, so the only hull penetration is the already present waterproof conduit for wires only. Skip Asay's 'KIS' (keep it simple) principle here!

A shaped lead emergency drop weight with a slot in the middle should work like the real one. A 'T' lock arrangement. Just like the real sub, a servo rotates the 'T' 90 degrees and the weight drops...and the sub rises..(quickly!). Use a 'SubSafe' for this. It will work automatically, and if you wish to do this yourself manually, just switch your transmitter off for 5 to 6 seconds, to create the same result. Forget a pitch control, it is not needed. We are talking here about a real submarine with a top speed of one knot! A tool pattern shape can be fashioned to conform to the hull sphere bottom with a slot, and using a propane torch, (wearing a protective breathing mask!), melt fishing lead weights into the plaster form. Make several copies as spares, and balance the weights on a scale so their weights are identical.

I would use as I discussed with you earlier during purchase a pendulum weight for pitch control, a servo at the apex near the top center, and a lead weight on the longest moment arm you can manage in that space inside the pressure hull sphere. You can also vary the degree of pitch too! Just like the real sub when they examined something interesting on the bottom of the sea. The key here is operating this at near neutral buoyancy. This will pay dividends in making the pendulum weight for pitch control effective. Also as Andy stated, keep the weight CG low, but I add....BUT NOT TOO LOW....we want stability, but not rock solid stability, as long as it stays upright. Being a saucer in shape, it should be naturally difficult to flip over any ways. The reason for this is, if a reasonable degree of instability (while still maintaining natural stability for leveling) is not built in.....it will make the pitch control ineffective. The pendulum weight will be fighting the stability to pitch back righting itself when you do not wish it at that moment. This will need tinkering in the pool to get the feel you wish right. Think about the underwater astronaut weightless training tank in Houston. The near neutral buoyancy in your Diving saucer will make the 'momentum' work in your favor, not against you.

DO NOT make the water jets themselves rotate. This is unnecessary waste, too complex, and not needed. The REAL diving saucer discarded this feature early. If you have good pitch control, and the tank like steering, this is all you will ever need. The key to the saucers nimbleness is her near perfect neutral buoyancy while submerged. The 'Kis' principle again.

Ballast system, recommend a small piston tank (could use a large syringe) or posiibly RCABS (inexpensive, but less accurate trim). I concur with Andy.

Use a whip receiver antenna (like they use in RC cars) for your RX antenna, effective and just as important....very scale! Dip the tip of the antenna in a rubber sealant to seal the end against water (and protect any little ones eyes).

What a great little sub to demonstrate about science to school children! The physical sciences involved. When the inevitable 'know it all kid' in class says...so what..I can play this game on my computer...then just retort....okay lets toss your computer in the swimming pool then! My computer surfaces again, does yours? LOL.

This is going to be fun for you Andrew...

Steve Reichmuth



Edited By Dolphin on 1117311586

[Guest]

I personally don't favour the

I personally don't favour the geared windscreen washer pumps.

They're inefficient for the use we want- high volume low pressure. Geared pumps are great for sealed tank ballast systems, where we need the high pressure these pumps can reach.

I reckon for an 'off-the-peg' alternative, Subtechs little ballast pumps would work quite well.

Also, if you want to use ballast shifting. rather than fit a lead weight, fit a bigger battery, and move that instead. Elegant.

Andy

[anonymous]

Excellent idea about the battery

Excellent idea about the battery on the pendulum. The threaded hatch opening on top of the pressure hull sphere would be near the apex of the servo arm swinging the battery too. The leads could conveniently pass threw this hatch opening while open for battery recharging. I agree about the SubTech pumps too. Use those.

Steve Reichmuth



Edited By Dolphin on 1117386656

[boatbuilder1]

hey guys thanks to steves

hey guys thanks to steves generous offering up of the photos I am nearly done drawing up plans for a set of simple masters.
I will start carving the masters this week hopefully. I am working out some jigs to carve the main global hull and the shrouds at this point I think the wings will either be cut from 1/4 inch plexi, or A template for the builder to to use. If I don't put myself in the hospital for exhaustion I should have the first set done in ten days or so. I welcome all suggestions now before I start the GRP tooling's
aksing price for kit is 375.00
chuck

[boatbuilder1]

update
the main dome for

update
the main dome for the spherical hull is done and goes to grp tooling on monday. saturday starting the hollow shell that houses the batteries and such

I would like to get a feel for interest if I get enough then I will put in an order with a local fiberglass house.

[Guest]

Hmmm. Have you considered vacforming

Hmmm. Have you considered vacforming the hulls?

The set-up cost is higher, but after that the cost is small per pull.

The design lends itself well to vacforming, and I think the price need to be lower for a small boat like that.

Andy