DSRV Mystic Update - RC version and Static version update

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  • fx models
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 166

    #1

    DSRV Mystic Update - RC version and Static version update

    HI folks,

    The Mystic for our client is coming along nicely. Now that we have been afforded some time, we are putting finishing touches on the Mystic static version first and then we will start work on the Mystic RC hull kit conversion. Le Grand Wizard Davidus Merrimanus has said he would love to build the thruster assemblies and perhaps other customized Mystic innards for the RC offering so hopefully we can look forward to some great possibilities in that arena! I just hope he has not been bitten by an angry alligator... [ha ha]

    Here are some images showing current status of the static version of Mystic. The RC version will be virtually identical in nearly every way except perhaps for how the hull parting line is designed. More on that later...when I figure it out.


    This image shows the stern section in the foreground and the bow section in next to it to the rear. The panels on the real vehicle are fiberglass and the model's paint finish has to reflect that. To accomplish it, we painted the base parts with a bright white primer first, and then went over that with various shades of green that were thinned considerably so that a slight sheen would result in the dry finish, and allow a slight translucency to the green. The effect is very strong. The rivets were molded in as I had noted in previous posts but to get them to 'pop' we burnished the surface lightly with a rigid styrene stick that had been painted heavily with white primer. Just enough white primer rubs off to bring the rivet heads to life and this is the most satisfying part of this model. When we offer it as a kit, you will see that this final step really adds life to the model. Well... it did in MY sorry opinion anyway...


    Close up view of the multi-green hued bow section. The sonar dome cover which is gray in this image is not painted in final paint. It is gray but a darker gray than shown. That will be done later. The bolt rings are at major separation points on the real vehicle and are similarly engineered on the model.


    The sail prior to a gloss clear coat. Painted, it reminds me of NR-1. Most things do these days though! Coupled with kits, and some new offerings in the deep submergence arena coming up at year end, we seem to use a lot of Orange paint! . Anyway, the sail logos and Deep Submergence logos will be on the model in all their detail.


    A blurry low quality image ... sorry ... of the overall parts layout. Saddle tanks and prop ring are visible here as well as the splitter keel middle left above saddle tanks. the sphere is almost out of shot at upper left. It was not quite ready for photography.

    There are numerous other details that are not shown. Turnbuckles on the sphere assembly get put on after the sphere is mated to the hull, and camera and light covers are next after that. Mystic is surprisingly complicated. We had to take a while to get it right and had one major false start early on with the stern section detailing but once past that we made it through.

    I will post more imagery as we finish assemble it. Hope you enjoy the look at this typically less than public vehicle.

    Marc
  • sam reichart
    Past President
    • Feb 2003
    • 1325

    #2
    beautiful work as always Marc.
    what

    beautiful work as always Marc.
    what will you be asking for the two versions?

    Sam

    Comment

    • fx models
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 166

      #3
      HI Sam,

      I am not sure

      HI Sam,

      I am not sure on the RC kit yet because depending on the volume of items provided with the RC version the price can change.
      The static version will probably be in the mid 200 dollar range as it looks right now. But, we make everything needed including the transfers for logos etc and laser cut items. We would also provide a nice instruction manual with imagery of the construction process, and painting tips and techniques for different effects needed for this type of vehicle too. We will probably also provide VERY nice imagery [large format!] of the Mystic and 3D renderings from our digital model of Mystic showing the underside details not readily visible in imagery.
      I will post more as we complete more on it. I painted the main body of the hull yesterday and am putting on other details now.

      Talk to you later!

      Marc

      Comment

      • ray schwartz
        Junior Member
        • Jul 2003
        • 45

        #4
        looks good , i would

        looks good , i would be intrested in the r/c model

        Comment

        • tom spettel
          Junior Member
          • Feb 2003
          • 92

          #5
          Wow that DSRV looks great!!!

          Wow that DSRV looks great!!! keep us posted on the R/C version..
          Tom

          Comment

          • fx models
            Junior Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 166

            #6
            Hi folks...

            One more update prior

            [color=#000000]Hi folks...

            One more update prior to final assembly here of the Mystic. These shots show the mocked up model just before final assembly. I wanted to do a paint match test so I put it all together temporarily to check hull and fore/aft section colors before detail painting on the hull.
            These images show the 8 different greens used pretty well. It all goes towards realism. Even a blue car is not just one color blue. Colors fade in the sun, are subject to other types of weathering and so forth. The model should reflect that too. Anyway just imagine this little guy all RC'd up! I certainly am. This will be lots of fun.


            Overall Starboard side view of the submersible.




            Close up of the starboard side paint scheme. Missing items]

            Comment

            • novagator
              SubCommittee Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 820

              #7
              That is beautiful, I wish

              That is beautiful, I wish I had the talent to weather a model like that.

              Comment

              • fx models
                Junior Member
                • Feb 2003
                • 166

                #8
                Hi John,

                Weathering the model or

                Hi John,

                Weathering the model or any model is not as bad as you may think. Here is exactly what I did so you can see it is not unreachable by any stretch.

                First, this particular model had various shades of green as evidenced by the imagery. So that much was decided. I would create a number of different greens.

                Then noticing that the hull is divided into panels and that certain green coloring seemed confined to particular panels, I realized I would be painting more greens over the hull after the base green coat was applied.

                To apply the base green coat, the only trick I used was [using an airbrush], I put a base coat of white primer down on the entire hull. This was the underlayer that would show through the thinned paint slightly so the translucent effect would happen. That is the only trick on this particular project.

                Next, I laid down the generic undercoat of green. This was a medium green.

                After the undercoat, I taped off the different panels that needed special treatment [ie different color green!] and painted just those panels. The difference is so subtle that in dim light the entire hull looks the same color. In bright light as you can see in the imagery however, the difference is quite obvious. This is the essence of weathering. Through ALL of your painting you can still see the undercoat of the original paint through the top layers of paint. Putting it on thin is how you accomplish this. You can thin the paint radically and take your time building up the layer or you can just spray lightly. I chose to thin the paint and build up the layers.

                Once the different panels were painted, then the details were masked and painted such as the round panel covers, square access panels and strapping. Rivets were burnished with a small sanding stick with mighty fine paper on it. This made them pop ever so slightly and look brighter. The effect works pretty well.

                Lastly, using the airbrush and the undercoat green again, I went back and created streaking patterns just by starting on the side and drawing the airbrush downward to create the faint streaking you see on the hull. Doing this in choice spots, such as over LIGHTER areas of green, promote the weathered look and assist in seating the illusion that the vehicle has been exposed to the elements.

                So it is not difficult. It is a process. Once you know the basic process, you can transfer it to any model you want. Do you want to know how to make a beautiful scale waterline for a submarine so it looks like it has been in the water for weeks or months without any cleaning? Just note the many greens and blues of the water line and realize you need to paint ALL of them in. Not just one color, but many colors. THAT is the key. I can give you more tips and ideas for the weathering thing if you are interested.

                By example, look at the following image]http://fxmodels.com/DSRVMystic/WebSize/OrangePaintTop.jpg[/img]

                This image shows the painting of the international orange stripes on the top of the Mystic. Note that they are not solid orange. This is by design. If you allow the undercoat to come through a little, then you add to the weathered effect. If you allow the undercoat to come through in certain areas, like where someone might walk, then you get the worn off paint look. In this case I went for a generic sun bleached, worn look to the top of the submersible. I left the edges of the orange squares slightly transparent, letting some green come through but only a little bit. The muted Orange looks better and the model looks real and not like a toy as a result.

                So that is just an example if it helps....

                Marc

                Comment

                • Guest

                  #9
                  Fantastic!

                  Creative painting is one area

                  Fantastic!

                  Creative painting is one area of the hobby which I have real difficulty with- I think it's where craft starts to blur into art.

                  How did you go about mixing the different shades of green? Did you start off with one pot and mix in a little black paint for darker shades?

                  Andy

                  Comment

                  • adriaticsea
                    Junior Member
                    • Jun 2003
                    • 139

                    #10
                    Hi Marc,

                    my sincere compliments for

                    Hi Marc,

                    my sincere compliments for your work on this Mystic DSRV model, every piece looks great and very well desinged/built, and the paint job is simply outstanding!
                    I forgot the scale of this model...can you tell me? If it is not too big, I can think of a very nice R/C manouver...imagine bottoming a sub on a pool and mating with the DSRV on the escape hatch!!!
                    How will the thrusters be realized? Would they be indipendently controlled, this DSRV could be driven just like the real one!!
                    Again, compliments!
                    BEST REGARDS MAURO

                    Comment

                    • jutland67
                      Junior Member
                      • Sep 2004
                      • 32

                      #11
                      Marc,your work is just fantastic.Thankyou

                      Marc,your work is just fantastic.Thankyou for taking the time to explain how you do the DSRV weathering.Can you advise me how best to paint and weather a modern SSN..i.e. in black..I understand about how to differentiate various panels etc by using slightly different shades of paint..but what colour undercoat should one use to get a good realistic finish on a blck sub ?..and finally..I think you have done such a superb job..your DSRV looks like it is made of metal under the paint...mine come out looking,well,like painted fibreglass..how do you achieve that metal looking finish on a black submarine..any advice would be appreciated.

                      Comment

                      • fx models
                        Junior Member
                        • Feb 2003
                        • 166

                        #12
                        Fantastic!

                        Creative painting is one area

                        Fantastic!

                        Creative painting is one area of the hobby which I have real difficulty with- I think it's where craft starts to blur into art.

                        How did you go about mixing the different shades of green? Did you start off with one pot and mix in a little black paint for darker shades?

                        Andy
                        HI Andy,

                        The greens were first determined in color and hue by examining the photos. Once I saw that most of the greens were based on a weathered "Green Drab", I darkened and lightened that base color. One thing though that is important is that I do not use black or white directly. The non-skid panels on the top for instance are grey and not rendered as black. This is because pure black on a model just never looks right because it does not exist in real life. Similarly when I darken or lighten color I dont use the stark black or white to do it. Here is why and how] mixed in with it. That is the better way to create shades of green. Otherwise you find yourself creating colors that are not desirable!
                        If you do not have the much lighter shades of green to use as mixers then CREATE them from the basic colors Yellow and Blue and use some white in THOSE mixtures. Then use the final Light green as a mixer for the basecoat green. It is very tempting to just use the mixers as the paint solo, but doing so will result in a color that in now way relates to the original basecoat. If that is what you want you are golden. But if not, then doing it using mixers gives you SO much control over the shade of green and ensures that the green you get is pretty darn close to the original basecoat. That is why this worked so well ... Little secret from our files ...


                        Hope that explains and helps Andy. Let me know.

                        Marc

                        Comment

                        • fx models
                          Junior Member
                          • Feb 2003
                          • 166

                          #13
                          Hi Marc,

                          my sincere compliments for

                          Hi Marc,

                          my sincere compliments for your work on this Mystic DSRV model, every piece looks great and very well desinged/built, and the paint job is simply outstanding!
                          I forgot the scale of this model...can you tell me? If it is not too big, I can think of a very nice R/C manouver...imagine bottoming a sub on a pool and mating with the DSRV on the escape hatch!!!
                          How will the thrusters be realized? Would they be indipendently controlled, this DSRV could be driven just like the real one!!
                          Again, compliments!
                          BEST REGARDS MAURO
                          Hi Mauro,

                          Thank you for the compliments. DSRVs and submersibles in general are my 'hot button' so I do tend to put a lot of effort into those. The scale of Mystic is 1/24, so it is about 2' long and is perfectly sized for a small Merriman WTC and some cool thrusters. Dave suggested he wants to make the thrusters for Mystic and coming from him you know the engineering will be sound. As far as control and independence of control, I dont know yet but one can imagine having all four thrusters being independent. Also keep in mind that the shrouded prop swings left right AND up and down! so you have lots of incredible manueverability.

                          Yes sir!!! Cant wait to play in a pool with this one!

                          Talk to you soon!

                          Marc

                          Comment

                          • fx models
                            Junior Member
                            • Feb 2003
                            • 166

                            #14
                            .Can you advise me how

                            .Can you advise me how best to paint and weather a modern SSN..i.e. in black..I understand about how to differentiate various panels etc by using slightly different shades of paint..but what colour undercoat should one use to get a good realistic finish on a blck sub ?
                            This is an interesting question. I have lots to say but one thing is which type of boat are you painting? An American nuke or a foreign nuke? If so then you have a different set of textures to worry about. Anechoic tiles do not look like metal. They look like wet rubber at best. Dry they look flat and reasonably dull with a non-smooth texture. To make metal look like metal however the technique we use is one we used on NR-1. We rubbed out the paint finish on those items that were metal. Doing so using a cotton cloth can generate an incredible metal look. Certain paints do this too and you can use a metalizer but for a black steel look, rubbing out the hull will give a good specular response for the metal. I would caution you not to do too much though and to be careful to rub out EVERY place that the metal is visible. If you miss an area, it will show blatanly in the light. The idea is to generate a specular response on the hull that makes the hull look metal where metal is called for. For a modern nuke however, you have tile coatings so that will make your life more difficult. The tile pattern itself notwithstanding, the rubber texture is not a rubbed out texture unless you are aiming for a wet look. The specular response on rubber tiles IS there but it is low and broadened, and not like metal. Metal is higher but broadened, thus my caution about rubbing out too much above...

                            Tell me what kind of sub you are working on and I can be more specific. Certainly my ideas are not the only ones and others will have different cool techniques I have not thought of so perhaps someone else will chime in.

                            Hope what I said was helpful though.

                            Marc

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #15
                              Marc,

                              I realise you are a

                              Marc,

                              I realise you are a very busy man, but it would be fantastic if you could put together an article or two for the report on creative painting techniques.

                              Perhaps picking out a couple of subjects, i.e. WWII sub, modern nuke (a British boat would be good, but then I'm biased) and maybe something esoteric, like the Disney Nautilus.

                              As I've already mentioned, creative painting is my weakest modelling skill, but it's the one thing which can really spoil an otherwise good model.

                              I'm sure I'm not alone in this.

                              Andy

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