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Probably there is a mathematical answer to my question, or a formal way to arrive at a "best guess." You can alter the number of winds, number of poles, gear ratios, props size and pitch, and pulse width modulation on the way to perfecting the drive. It has the look of an optimization problem.
But the props for the USS Katahdin steam ram were chosen for near-scale appearance, which is probably the worst way to go about it from an engineering standpoint.
It was a ram, and the prototype was built to go fast. What first interested me about the USS Katahdin as a subject for a model was the idea that it would probably look very interesting surging through the water.
But we know from thermodynamics that the motor system and associated electronics is going to make heat, entropy. Even in a perfectly optimized system, heat will arise.
It is probably an embellishment to try to get rid of it, but I just think the machine is happier running cool. And in a moving boat, cooling water is easy to come by.
The fast electric community seems far gone on water cooling, and they have a lot of hardware photos and discussion up on the net about it. This photo impressed me -- a system which cools the brushes as well as the can.
It may be that as brushless motors become more popular, the problem will change. In electric aircraft, high torque brushless motors have recently made it possible to drop gearboxes and still swing big propellors.
I am going to follow the example suggested by BigDave, who watercooled his Nautilus. Brushless is the future, but I am already committed to a pair of ESC's and a mixer intended for brushed motors. And I have the motors. As for the gearing, I will try direct, and if it doesn't work, I will gear down. Many thanks for your thoughtful insights. I will post a photo of the installation as things progress...
Incidentally, and I will post this as a new topic at some point -- I need airbrush painting help. If someone has the skills and equipment to do a fine airbrush paint job on this model, or if you know someone who does, I would like to commission the job. It would be helpful if you lived within a day's drive of NYC. It is two colors, about 48 inches long.
At present the model is olive drab, a prime coat. The prototype was painted sea green. Here is what it looked like in 1898.
I've never found it necessary to watercool my ESC.
The FET's used in modern designs are so tough and highly rated, current wise, that it's almost impossible to cook them in conventional modelling applications.
The controllers I use in my models are thermally protected, so will shut down if overheated. However I've never experienced this in practice.
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